Fabricated precision high speed micro drill press mainly from ‘useful material’ (someone else's ‘junk’ and scrap)
My first Instructable, try not to be too nasty .
Many thanks to Andrea Biffi for posting his cheap circuit board drill press and getting me interested in making one and for comments telling me I should document my building process for an Instructable
A little background.
I consider myself a motorcycle mechanic as I’ve been working on ‘bikes’ for over 40 yrs.including almost 12 years teaching at motorcycle school in Orlando Florida until 2011. I already own all the tools, taps, dies, drills, etc from years of working on motorcycles and realise most people won't be that 'lucky' (the downside of having a 'proper job')
For the last several years I’ve been ‘playing’ with 1970’s Honda’s and Yamaha’s, specifically XS650 and CB350/360. With the resurgence of ‘Cafe Culture’ and people going for a specific ‘look’ I’ve been having fun modifying carburettors to work with aftermarket air filters (‘pods’) It entails drilling new holes and making ‘precision’ pieces, some of the holes are only 0.035mm diameter and none are over 1.5mm diameter. I needed a high speed drill press to use the available carbide drill bits, they shatter if you try to use them by hand in pin vice or if they are run too slowly in a normal drill press
Anyway, on with the build, sorry to everyone if I've oversimplified everything or should have added more steps and pictures, you can always ask in comments section, I can take pictures of the finished piece
Hole saws, 1.5" & 1.75"
HSS Drill bit set; I have one in 1/64” increments from 1/16” to ½”
Tapping drills for 4mm, 5mm and 6mm taps
4mm, 5mm 6mm taps and tap handle
1/4x20 inch size tap (standard thread for camera mounts - another hobby)
Assorted metric screws, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm countersunk/flat head
Divider for marking circles (compass would probably work just as well)
Propane torch (or some way to melt lead for counterweight)
Assorted files, flat, round, etc
A lathe and milling machine would be nice but everything can be done with drill press and hand tools
1.5”x1” Aluminium box section, cut and welded at 90 degree angle – surplus store – I got lucky and the reason I decided to make 'drill press'. Steel could be used, would be easier to weld and hold threads better but more difficult to drill and tap
¾” square aluminium box section, about 1ft long
Small square piece to fit inside ¾” box section for mounting, roughly ½” x 1/2" x 1”, I had a scrap piece from some old frame (chair, window? no idea)
2 pieces aluminium 3/16” thick1-1/2 ~ 2” long, spacer/mountings - scrap offcuts, until I found a use for them
aluminium block 2.5" x 1" x 2" - off-cut I had after making a fork brace for CB360 - probably from eBay? (I forget)
Aluminium plate, about 3" square, 3/8" thick - had it in toolbox for last 20 yrs, always knew I would find a use for it
I used to get a lot of aluminium offcuts and odd bits from Skycraft (http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/) so had almost everything laying around
Pulley, I used 2”x 1/4” with 1/16” wide groove, something I made several years ago when learning machining
‘Fotomate’ camera macro rack and pinion focusing device - eBay
3.5mm steel plates –free - front axle steady plate from a motorcycle transportation crate – ask your local motorcycle shop if they have any ‘useful material’ (scrap crate parts)
¾” x1/8" aluminium angle, about 14”~18” for cross piece, came off a bench edge -free
Old lead wheel and fishing weights – I used a little over 12oz
‘Dremel’ style rotary tool - eBay - the most expensive part
4x rubber feet
Old toothbrush to make lever
2x ‘Chocolate block’ electrical connectors
18" x 1/16” dia high tensile wire ‘rope’ – I had some from a project that ‘failed’- couldn’t solder Teflon coated stainless steel wire even after coating was removed
The 99% finished item so you can see what it looks like is at top
It’s probably best to get ‘Dremel’ clone and macro focusing rack before cutting anything
When you know length of rotary tool and ‘Fotomate’ macro focus rack, you can start making some measurements for cutting box section angle piece.
When you know length of rotary tool and ‘Fotomate’ macro focus rack, you can start making some measurements for cutting angle piece
The Fotomate base will give the size of extender block and move rotary tool away from main upright
The chuck doesn't need to be closer than about 3/4" to base when rack is fully extended in downward position, the drill bit will make up the difference
Cut base and upright to length, save cut off pieces.
One end already had a 45degree angle cut, I used that for extension block - the angle is useful later
Drill 5mm holes all the way through upright and extender, on center line, about 3/4" from top edge. The rearmost hole needs to be opened up large enough for a countersink bit, the next to 6mm and countersunk for flat head screw. The extender gets threaded 6x1mm and bolted to upright.
Flip upright onto back and mark/drill 5mm hole under the angle end, remove the extender drill hole to 6mm and countersink, tap hole in upright 6x1mm
Place Fotomate on extender, line up with top edge and use 5mm drill bit to mark hole position. Drill first hole, tap 6x1 and mount macro base to extender. Line everything up, use Allen key through 6mm tapped hole in back to tighten screw. Mount extender onto upright with both screws to check everything is 'square', single bolt between macro base and extender allows it to be lined up properly, countersunk screws mean extender will always go back in same position on upright. When macro base is 'right' remove extender and drill second base mounting hole 5mm through extender and macro base