Step 2: Using Your Drill
Second mount up your cleaning pads to your drill. They all have various operating speeds so make sure to check before you run the pad at 1500000000 rpm.
My particular set was from Norton and max speed was 4k, I probably was spinning it at 1300 on a standard corded drill with a standard locking chuck.
Try to get the pad as perpendictular to the drill chuck as possible, having a wobble in the head will make things a little bit more difficult.
Now that you've got your tooling set up its time to actually start working on the rotor.
Placement of the rotor is important as if you have floating rotors like most modern bikes do, you can risk bending the carrier by applying too much pressure. I used a styrofoam sheet that I had laying around and carved out a general profile for the rotor so when I applied pressure down it wasn't on the carrier.
This can be done safely if you use light pressure on the center of the carrier with a soft object like a cloth around your fist.
Using a light pressure on the drill and keeping it at a right angle to the rotor surface, you can start working your way around the rotor.
I found that moving the drill in small circles, moving counterclockwise around the rotor produced both the best surface finish and cleaned the fastest; if you see heavy "swirls" in the metal, you're likely applying too much pressure or you have something embedded in the pad that is making the swirls.
I was able to get an entire rotor (both sides&the carrier) cleaned up with one pad and there was no scoring on the metal.
When you're finished the metal should be a uniform shine and should feel very clean to the touch rather than gummy and sticky.
If you don't know what I'm talking about run your fingers across a rotor that has been cleaned, and one that hasn't!