Ever since I started experimenting with my UP! 3D Printer, I have had issues with part warping. The warping is especially bad when the parts are made with solid fill and take up a lot of room on the build platform. I was getting pretty good results using Kapton tape alone, but when a new and difficult part came around it wasn't cutting it anymore.

I found TechShopJim's great instructable here: https://www.instructables.com/id/100-Warp-Free-Make... about how to make an ABS slurry to help parts stick to the platform. This worked pretty well for me, but I had trouble with applying a thin layer and with storage of the slurry. This instructable details a similar technique that gives me a little better results with less effort, and an additional step to really help warp proof your printer.

Here is what you need to get started:
-Kapton tape (this method might also work with masking tape, but I haven't tried)
-Small squeeze bottle (http://www.mcmaster.com/#1902t14/=pmfznz)
-Scrap ABS part
-Optional: cardboard and tape for draft shield

Step 1: Fill Squeeze Bottle With Acetone

Fill the squeeze bottle with dispensing tip with acetone. This will make it easier to apply only what is needed and prevent making a mess.  In a pinch, you could probably get away without using the squeeze bottle and just very carefully pouring, but acetone always seems to pour out a little faster than I want.
<p>That was a briliant idea!!</p><p>I can't believe how it can be easy for me to print ABS since now!</p><p>Thank you!</p>
<p>That's great!</p><p>Thanks buddy, your instruction realy helped me!</p>
<p>will this work for PLA prints as well?</p>
<p>In my experience PLA doesn't warp nearly as much as ABS. If it isn't adhering to your bed properly I would recommend covering your bed in blue painters tape. The tape gives a good rough surface for adhesion and is easy to remove and replace. Using that with my heated bed I have had few issues with PLA but it isn't enough for ABS, I think I will try hairspray next as others are recommending.</p>
I had the same problem with warping, and I found that hairspray is super easy and it works amazingly all you do is spray it on the build platform before you print. it can go on any platform tape or not, also I found that ideal temp is 220&deg;c for extruder and 120&deg;c for platform.
I have given up on slurries for bed adhesion, and now exclusively use Aqua Net hairspray. Ludicrously easy to apply, insanely easy to scrape or rinse off. I keep my slurries for filling in parts.
I've heard of this but haven't tried it, definitely sounds easy. Do you spray it on when the bed is preheated or cooled? And do you spray directly to the plate or do you tape over it first with Kapton?
the other way to nearly guarantee preventing warping is to have your entire build enclosed in a uniformly temperature controlled environment...put your up printer in a clear (so you can see it working) box. Warping is a function of non-uniform cooling/shrinkage of the melted plastic back into a hard material.
I agree, I think controlling the temperature of the entire build is key for the reason you provided. One thing I have heard is that some 3D printers, especially ones made of acrylic, can have issues if parts of them get too hot. If I wasn't worried about this I would have added a heater to my cardboard enclosure.

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