You will need:
- A couple of old toothbrushes (buy some new ones if you don't have any spare)
- Some thick baking foil
- A wire coat hanger
- A very short piece of garden hose pipe or something similar
- About 3 metres (3 yards) of electrical home lighting ring main cable (optional)
- A cupboard door knob
- A hot melt glue gun (with at least 3 long sticks of hot melt glue)
- Some strong cardboard
- You will benefit from being able to use an oven (on a very low heat)
Step 1: Bend a coat hanger into shape
Pull down the bottom bar of the coat hanger and push the sides in. Straighten out the hanger as much as possible, taking care to make sure that it is not twisted or bent. This is not as easy as it sounds, because the coat hanger wire is quite springy. We need this property for later to make the blade have a spring to it, but at this stage it makes it hard to work with.
Bend the coat hanger hook round so that it is a narrow loop but centred and in a straight line with the rest of the hanger. This will\mean bending it back slightly so that the centre of the loop is centred on the axis of the straightened out hanger.
Step 2: Make a cardboard mould for the blade
Now put the wire coat hanger in the oven to warm up. Use one of the lowest settings your oven has. gas mark 1/2, or 120C or 250F. What you are doing is warming the wire up so that it stops the hot melt from setting when you glue gun it into the mould.
Now cut 2 thin strips of the same card and stick them to the edges of one of the sword shaped pieces of card to create little low walls. The depth of the mould should be between 5mm to 10mm (1/4 to 1/2 inch).
Leave the wide end open and leave a gap at the tip.
Step 3: Line the mould with baking foil
This picture shows the mould lined and some glue gun glue already in it... in my excitement to get things done I forgot to take a picture of the lined empty mould, but I'm sure you get the picture.
Tuck the foil up at the ends so that when you come to fill it with glue gun glue, it won't run out all over the place!
Step 4: Cover the bottom of the mould with Glue Gun Glue
Carefully (using oven gloves or a tea towel) get the wire coat hanger from the oven (turn off the oven) and lay the wire coat hanger in your mould. Make sure you glue gun is nice and hot and then work quickly and steadily to cover the bottom of the mould with the glue. You don't need it to be too deep, because the blade only needs to be 3-4mm thick.
Leave the loop at the top of the blade without any glue on it.
Step 5: Fold over the foil and close the mould
Now I have used foil to line the mould, because I made my mould out of cardboard to be quick. but if you have the time and inclination, then you could always make your mould out of wood or Medium Density Fibreboard (MDF). You could fill all the cracks with auto body two part resin, and grease the mould up with vegetable oil or mould release agent and then inject straight into the mould. This will give you a better finish and you can always paint the silver on the blade later.
When the blade is set, between 10 minutes and 30 minutes, carefully lift it out of the mould and trim off the wast foil and any glue gun glue that has squeezed out.
Step 6: Cover the balde if you want (optional)
Step 7: Now make the handle
now the little bit of hose pipe should be filled with hot melt and have the blade stuck firmly in one end and the cupboard door know in the other.
Step 8: Bind the handle
use one of the wires inside to wrap round the sword handle to make it sturdy. glue one end and start winding, remembering to keep it tight. Glue a dab of hot melt every so often, to make sure that it stays in place.
When you've wound it all along the handle glue it off, then making sure to mask the pommel and the blade at either end, spray the wire handle black.
When the black paint dries, burnish gold or silver on to the top edges to give some distressing, a bit of age and some lovely extra detail.
Step 9: Make the cross guard
You are going to be making it in two halves and sticking them round the blade.
Take two identical tooth brushes (although non-identical ones are ok as well), chop off their heads (got to say that at least once in an instructable on swordmaking...) and cut their other ends at an angle so that they will mate together in the middle nicely. Remember that they are left and right elements and so if you cut a slanting face it will have to be back to front on one of the tooth brushes.
Hold the two pieces together and offer them up to the sword blade and mark on them how far the blade comes across them.
Mark the thickness of the blade on the top of one toothbrush handle and on the bottom of the other.
Drill a large hole (its diameter should be the thickness of the blade) at the end of the piece to be removed and then saw down to the line to meet the hole and remove the central piece of plastic.
Step 10: Finish and attach cross guard
I used the remains of the toothbrush to burnish the sword handle a bit and then I cut off all the bristles and used the brush head to cover the join between the to parts of the crossguard. later I coloured this bit in gold using a big tip gold marker.
Step 11: Show off and enjoy
Of course you can also have a look at my other instructables for more wizardry and magic related projects or visit dadcando for more including a printouts and templates.