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This is a video I made a long time ago that I just found recently. Decided to upload because it pretty much covers the entire process I use for making a scrap parts knife.
Enjoy!
I think you can get all that rust and crud out easily using a wire wheel on a drill. I have done that many times to get rust and crud out of metal projects. After doing that, you can use some kind of buffing compound to get the surface really elegant and smooth. You could even spray clear lacquer on it to protect from further rust. That is a tip from my brother who has done body work on cars. I used clear lacquer once on a car I had which had some minor nicks. No rust developed there.
Very nice! I am a beginner/amateur bladesmith myself. If you haven't already, check out this website: http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php? The guys on there are great, the site itself is a treasure-trove of information. Ben Potter (Sword-Hilted Broken-Back Seax) is on there, along with some of the big names in the knifemaking community. If you do get on, look me up. Username is Greg C.
Brave man not wearing shoes. AWESOME INSTRUCTABLE !!! Ive made a few myself and the best thing that i learned to do about the pits in the metal is clean them out with a dremmel and polish them up. It gives it a funky wavy look if it cleans up rite.
Dude, you want to be carefull cutting like you did in the video. I'd hate to see a young man like yourself walking around with only 8 or 9 fingers. Try using an old file for you next knife. It is very hard and keeps an edge longer than mild steel. You'll need a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder for shapping, but I'm sure you'll like itbetter. If you have a horse shoeer in your area, ask him doe one of his old files he uses for triming horses. Works great. Good luck and stay safe!!!
oh yes, one other thing..... wear shoes next time you are working with metal above ankle level. that thing looks heavy enough to take off your pinky toe,. good boots or soup cans cut in half over tennis shoes for a red neck approach will help protect your very important feet.
your method could bepart of the problem why it geets dulll so fast. it sounds like everything that you have used on it would anneal the metal. if you can get one(that nobody needs) find a CO2 extinguisher(f7?) heat the blade in a forced air fire until you can get a good glow, then either quench it in motor/trans oil(make sure container has a lid for the flames and set it in evenly, (not on one side or other, or it may warp) or hit it with the CO2 for about five seconds) the the co2 process will make it very brittle and it won't be a chopper but you should have bettter luck on holding an edge. let me know if you try either of these out how they work for you. If you are a blacksmith and reading this and you find a huge falw in my plans, please make a comment about my comment.good vid BTW.
I used a very old lawnmower blade I found in the woods. The steel isn't that hard, and it can dull pretty fast actually. I didn't temper it in the video, but I attempted to do so with a blowtorch (didn't work). I used a handheld angle grinder to cut and shape it.
O YA ={)<- man with a mustache O YA
If you haven't already, check out this website: http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?
The guys on there are great, the site itself is a treasure-trove of information. Ben Potter (Sword-Hilted Broken-Back Seax) is on there, along with some of the big names in the knifemaking community. If you do get on, look me up. Username is Greg C.
Greg
Greg
So no, I don't. Sorry bout that
It would be cool with the fire and stuff... but alas, I can't make it.
What did you use to cut the lawnmower blade? The finger notch, is that the bolt-hole for the lawnmower blade?