Produce a Rich Rust Patina on Iron and Steel, Safely and Quickly, Using Common Household Chemicals by Laral
Copy of 08 - rust patina.JPG
  This instructable will show you a fast, safe method, using common household chemicals that you probably already have, to produce a rich rust patina on iron and steel to give it a weathered, aged appearance.

Background

I've had this Maine 'buoy bell' wind chime for about eight years now. I really like it. It has the haunting melancholy sound of a bell buoy at sea being tossed by wind and waves. It is made of COR-TEN steel which is designed to rust on the surface to create a protective barrier against further rusting. It came painted black on the outside and was supposed to develop this rich rust patina naturally over time. Well, the unpainted inside did rust completely after about a year, but the outside only rusted slightly, near the bottom, even after exposure to the sun, rain, and snow of the northeast for eight years. I wanted it to have a nice rust patina that looked like it had been hanging on the eaves of a lobster shack, at the end of a pier, for many a year, being splashed and buffeted by nor'easters and sudden gales. Seeing it was taking so long, I decided to take things into my own hands and, ah, "help" mother nature along and accelerate the process. I searched the net and found mostly dangerous methods to induce rust on steel using highly caustic or acidic chemical solutions. However I finally did find a simple safe method, using on-hand household chemicals, buried deep within a thread on the subject at a metalworking forum. I got spectacular results which have not only withstood the wind and rain of the southwest but have actually improved with the help of mother nature. I like the results so much, and there is so little practical information on the subject that is accessible to the general public, I thought I'd share this simple method with the instructables community.

Judging by the number of posts on forums asking how to do this, I see I am not the only one who wants to actually promote, rather than prevent, rust on iron and steel objects. I found out the basic information for doing this at the very cool ArtMetal forum: http://www.artmetal.com/blog/bob_turan/2009/04/rust_promoter . I'm guessing that there are more than a few instructables members who have a similar desire to prematurely age some iron/steel artifact, so I encourage people to post pictures of their resuls in the comments and add tips on how they did it so we can all learn. This method is not set in stone. Posts about useful variations on the method are always welcome.
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Materials and Tools

000 - rust patina.JPG

You will need the following:

Household Chemicals:

  • White vinegar (any brand)
  • Hydrogen Peroxide (3% -- use a fresh bottle)
  • Table salt (any kind will do, doesn't have to be sea salt)
  • Degreaser (any brand)

Tools:

  • Measuring cup
  • Measuring spoons
  • Spray bottle
1-40 of 47Next »
wroughtirondesigns says: Apr 25, 2013. 4:56 PM
Hi again. I wondered if you had any advice about if i can 'water down' the mix in the spray bottle. I am working on a mirror which is not just a flat piece of steel. It has a patten welded on with leaves etc. When i spray the chemical on, it collects at the corners and under the leaves. This then leaves an uneven colour and slightly flaky rust in places. If i put more vinegar into the mix would this 'water down' the mixture and make it easier to spray??? Or will the colour even out when i spray it with polyurethane? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Knyman1 says: Jan 26, 2013. 9:01 AM
I have been thinking of ways to used the bi metal food cans and wondering if a patina process can work on them. Also, what if I don't want a completely rusted look - some color on them...like your pickling process picture where there is some rust and some blue. Any thoughts?
Laral (author) says: Mar 27, 2013. 9:26 AM
Just sand the parts where you want rust.
bajareke says: Mar 27, 2013. 4:03 AM
Simply amazing..! I have been looking for a simple, fast and environmental friendly method to patina some of my works and... wow! I found it. Thank you for such of a clear way to explained. Funny too.
I want to add my experience with this method. I live in south Florida where sun heat is good, but I wanted to accelerate the drying process and applied extra heat with a propane torch: unexpected and beautiful results. Then I applied a few times more of the solution recommended and dry it again with the torch, obtaining (depending of the heating time and distance from the piece) different shades of brown. Also I sprayed on the plate (by mistake) black spray paint, and kept working with the torch and adding solution and drying it, obtaining excellent results.
Note: protect yourself with a proper mask for any possible fumes, aside of the rest of the recommended protection. I was working on 1/8 regular steel plate. At the end I sprayer with clear protector for metal and sanded to diminish the glossy finish. See the results!
Picture 4.pngPicture 3.pngPicture 2.pngPatina 1.png
Laral (author) says: Mar 27, 2013. 8:59 AM
@bajareke:

Wow, that looks fantastic! I will try that next time I need to rust something. And thanks for the kind words.
wroughtirondesigns says: Mar 6, 2013. 5:50 PM
I am wondering if at stage 5, if you rinse off the rust accelerator at anytime. I cannot get my spray bottle to spray it on, so am applying with a large paint brush. The rusting process is happening, but leaves quite a residue on my work.
My first attempt i washed it off and the rust came off with the water.
Any suggestions?? I wish to rust a steel item quickly, and finish it with a polyurethane spray.
Laral (author) says: Mar 6, 2013. 8:23 PM
You should not rinse it. Let it dry. Don't touch it. It is very delicate at this stage. Once dry, you can spray it with poly. Work on getting your spray bottle to work. It gives much more even and controllable results.
virgilio karduz says: Jan 7, 2013. 9:57 PM
It did work for me in a great way,thanks a million.
metalartpro says: Dec 9, 2012. 3:22 PM
That is so cool! I was shocked at how fast it rusted!
I am going to post a pic on my website for people to check it out. It is the 32 ford custom coupe. www.Metalartpro.com
sho0glenifty says: Sep 14, 2012. 6:00 AM
FOOLPROOF !!!! thank you so much !!!
Laral (author) says: Aug 2, 2012. 11:48 AM
Holy cow, I can actually see all my steps at once AND download a PDF of them! It looks as if all my rants have paid off. LOL. Thank you for (somewhat) restoring my faith in my fellow man (and woman). ;-)
BenderBendingRodriguez says: Jul 6, 2012. 2:30 PM
I feel compelled to indicate that the "Rust Accelerator" solution is essentially peroxyacetic acid. This is a corrosive and possibly harmful chemical which can damage the airways and in strong concentrations can be hazardous.

It is created by mixing the hydrogen peroxide with the vinegar.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peroxyacetic_acid

I'm not saying it's not a great idea, but I'm saying be super careful not to get it on your skin. It's extremely corrosive and will probably destroy plastic it is stored in over time. It works well for rusting things because it oxidizes whatever it touches at an accelerated rate. Including skin. So I might not agree in saying this is SAFE. SAFER, perhaps, than using more frightening chemicals, but...
Laral (author) says: Aug 2, 2012. 11:43 AM
First of all, see all the cautions given in Step 2 Safety First. While I didn't identify the compound that you ferreted out via Google, no doubt, which, according to the article you cite, is more commonly called peracetic acid, I gave a description of essentially the same properties mentioned and precautions for dealing with them. That said, you are obviously not a chemist, and neither am I, but I know enough college chemistry to know the difference between concentrated acetic acid and vinegar (5% acetic acid), and between concentrated hydrogen peroxide and the 3% household variety. Note also that I am not advising anyone to do what the article outlines: "Peracetic acid is produced by continuously feeding acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide into an aqueous reaction medium containing a sulfuric acid catalyst." The solution produced by these common and safe household chemicals is obviously no where near the concentrations produced by this industrial process. I also note in the article that "Peracetic acid is an ideal antimicrobial agent due to its high oxidizing potential. . . . It also breaks down in food to safe and environmentally friendly residues (acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide), and therefore can be used in non-rinse applications." and "The United States Environmental Protection Agency first registered peracetic acid as an antimicrobial in 1985 for indoor use on hard surfaces. Use sites include agricultural premises, food establishments, medical facilities, and home bathrooms." Also, "Exposure to peracetic acid can cause irritation to the skin, eyes and respiratory system and higher or long-term exposure can cause permanent lung damage. In addition, there have been cases of occupational asthma caused by peracetic acid." I clearly advise measures to be taken against the first 3 of these exposure hazards. And I clearly don't advocate "higher or long-term exposure" which obviates the risks of the 4th and 5th symptoms. As for any possibility of this solution destroying plastic, have you ever seen a gallon of muriatic acid, available in hardware stores? It comes in plastic jugs. It is far more corrosive than this very weak solution of peracetic acid. So, in conclusion, although you may mean well, as the preacher sayeth, "We A-L-L know what road is paved with good IN-TEN-SHUNS!" Let's be honest, you really didn't read the article you cited very carefully, and you jumped to highly unlikely conclusions. Yes, be careful if you make this stuff. If you follow my instructions--and the dictates of common sense, you should have no problems. If not, you are on your own. . .
wright.or.wrong says: Aug 1, 2012. 11:45 AM
Great work. It worked like a charm for me on some screws for a more rustic look.
Laral (author) says: Aug 2, 2012. 10:32 AM
I'm always glad to hear of how someone used this. Thanks.
fzumrk says: Jun 8, 2012. 5:20 AM
If the metal you would like to rust is galvanized, you can remove this with the 'pickling' step. I have been de-galvanizing screws to use in restoration projects with a bath of 90% vinegar/10% lemon juice. I just leave the screws submerged in the solution overnight and rinse them off when done. I let them air dry afterwards and they get just a little bit of rust on them. You may want to degrease them first, but I have skipped this step and it has still stripped all of the galvanizing.

Note that the stuff I have stripped is likely electroplated or cold-galvanized. I haven't tried anything with a heave hot-dip galvanized coating, but it probably takes longer to dissolve all of the zinc.
doomsdayltd says: Aug 4, 2011. 2:34 AM
d@mn i shouldn't of bought my rust type paint, this does the exact same effect for 6 dollars when i spent like 16 for the real rust paint :(
Laral (author) says: Aug 4, 2011. 9:35 AM
Rust paint? What is it, rust-colored paint or paint that promotes rust? How did you spend $6 using this method? You must have rusted a battle ship. :)
doomsdayltd says: Aug 4, 2011. 8:16 PM
well what the rust paint does is it puts a layer of paint with iron oxide in it, then the other solution you put on promotes rusting of the iron oxide. and yes this method is only like 6 dollars since how inexpensive the items were for this.
Laral (author) says: Aug 6, 2011. 9:28 AM
I guess if you bought everything from scratch it might be $6. I had every item on hand so, in a sense, it didn't cost me anything because those items were already being used for other purposes. Just the negligible cost of the ingredients.

I didn't know there was such a thing as that paint but this way must be cheaper than any commercial product. I also found a very cheap way to produce a nice green patina on copper and brass. the commercial products to do this are outrageously expensive.

cr.jpg
gypsyloot says: Sep 16, 2011. 7:41 AM
Hi Laral- your details were really helpful to me, so glad I came across this. I didn't notice if you posted your "cheap way" to produce the green patina ... if you're able to I would very much appreciate it!! ... thanks ;-)
Laral (author) says: Apr 4, 2012. 11:46 AM
Have a look at:

http://asuwlink.uwyo.edu/~metal/patinas.html -- the second formula.
I got a sal ammoniac block from Ace at the time but I don't see it now at their website. I found that eBay has ammonium chloride powder cheaper than what I paid for the block. It would also dissolve much easier than the hard block.
JGsoldier says: Nov 9, 2011. 7:03 AM
can this work on coins or other metals?
Laral (author) says: Apr 4, 2012. 11:40 AM
Only if they contain iron (steel).
mrlunna13 says: Aug 19, 2011. 3:48 PM
I have always hated the rusted look, and have been almost obsesive about removing even the smallest hints of rust. But I have to admit, it looks kinda cool.
Cheers,
Mr. Lunna XIII
Laral (author) says: Aug 19, 2011. 7:57 PM
I'm glad you like it. I think it's kinda cool too. Rust is one of those things that, in the right circumstance, is to be embraced rather than shunned. That's the whole idea behind Cor-Ten steel. Instead of trying to prevent rust, let the rust form a thin rust-proof surface. Now that is really cool. ;)
shealyum says: Jul 30, 2011. 1:14 PM
You wanna see a rust world visit www.rustpainting.com there you will see a variety of rust paintings from all over the world. There is a good interview on rust painting with an Irish artist Sean Healy.
Vision Quest.jpg
Laral (author) says: Jul 30, 2011. 7:31 PM
That is definitely very cool. The changing rust changes the image over time.
soapmaker72 says: Feb 22, 2011. 10:45 AM
I have used this proceedure on my latest work. Please visit www.jtbmetaldesigns.com for more information.
Laral (author) says: Feb 22, 2011. 11:35 AM
Nice job! I'm glad someone found a good use for this. Thanks for the kind words and for linking to this instructable.
Zeppelinfreak says: Oct 27, 2010. 7:28 PM
Did you strip the paint off of the bell or did you apply the solution right to the painted steel?
Laral (author) says: Oct 31, 2010. 10:19 AM
See Step 3 - Degrease the Metal.
YoungPyro19 says: Jul 10, 2010. 10:17 PM
This instructable has been very helpful to me since I'm trying to produce Fe2O3. 5 stars...
Laral (author) says: Jul 10, 2010. 11:44 PM
Yes, well there are much easier ways to obtain Fe2O3. Be careful. Don't get burned you naughty boy! ;-)
YoungPyro19 says: Jul 12, 2010. 6:43 PM
Yes, I know but this naughty boy has plenty of steel wool and little money to pay for shipping.
Laral (author) says: Jul 12, 2010. 9:02 PM
OK. I hope you know what you are doing. Thermite is vicious stuff! It sputters and spits molten iron everywhere. Needs to be lit in an open pit with no vegetation near it. A quarry or gravel pit comes to mind. You need protective eyewear and welder's gloves at the very least. Don't say you weren't warned. Best get your chemistry teacher involved. He/she will know how to do things properly and will probably have decent grade chemicals as well. Let us know your experiences.
YoungPyro19 says: Jul 14, 2010. 8:52 PM
I appreciate your concern but this 19yr old kid is out of high school and has never taken a chemistry class in his entire life. Although, I have taken biology but that was out of a text book. I have more research to do before I get started on thermite but producing Fe2O3 is just another stepping stone. Did you see my instructable on making German Dark Al powder from foil? I might mix my homemade Al with my homemade Fe2O3 for thermite. I’ll let you know how it goes. Here is a picture of my final product. One sheet of steel wool got me 14g of Iron(III) Oxide. It took approximately 4 days for the steel to transform.
1st time producing Fe2O3.JPG
Laral (author) says: Jul 15, 2010. 9:17 AM
That looks quite nice. I did see your Instructable for making dark pyro aluminum. I see you do seem to know some of the dangers involved. Be really careful with any finely divided aluminum product. The stuff can spontaneously explode when suspended in air like when you open your mill, or when you mix it with any compound. All it takes is a tiny spark such as is generated by static electricity accumulated on your body. Always ground yourself first. The same goes for the containing vessel. BTW, I don't understand how you can afford a ball mill but can't afford to buy relatively cheap Fe2O3. If you milled it, which it looks like you must have, you probably spent more on electricity than you would on the purified product. But you live at home don't you. So it's not costing YOU anything. LOL. Is it that you just want to do it yourself? Be careful. Those molten iron blobs would really sting when they cling to your seared flesh. Ouch! And forget it if they were ever to get in your eyes. Wear a welding face shield. They don't cost that much. Maybe a welding shop would donate one if you ask them real nice and tell them what you're doing.
YoungPyro19 says: Jul 15, 2010. 5:10 PM
Thank you… You know I never thought to ground myself until I watched something on T.V. about the science of fireworks and Zambelli Fireworks. Before the pyrotechnists enter one of their buildings to construct fireworks they ground themselves on a copper plate. I have some copper wire so I think I’ll start doing that. I want to practice safer procedures as I carry out more of my experiments. Back in ’05, ’06, and ’07 I was very ignorant about safety and pyrotechnics. Over these couple of years I have learned plenty. Actually, believe it or not, the steel wool rusted into somewhat of a coarse powder. There was no ball milling needed. I did however; grind the iron(III) oxide a little in a plastic container with a paint stick. The process was easier and cheaper than you think thanks to your and acecase’s instructables.
Laral (author) says: Jul 18, 2010. 10:06 AM
I remember hearing about an explosion in a fireworks factory that killed several people a few years ago. This was a family owned business for generations and they knew what they were doing. All it takes is ONE mistake. I would not encourage you to mess with this stuff, especially the aluminum. If you ground yourself and not the container, a spark could easily be transferred to the container. You AND the container need to be at ground potential at the same time.
1-40 of 47Next »
Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!