Background
I've had this Maine 'buoy bell' wind chime for about eight years now. I really like it. It has the haunting melancholy sound of a bell buoy at sea being tossed by wind and waves. It is made of COR-TEN steel which is designed to rust on the surface to create a protective barrier against further rusting. It came painted black on the outside and was supposed to develop this rich rust patina naturally over time. Well, the unpainted inside did rust completely after about a year, but the outside only rusted slightly, near the bottom, even after exposure to the sun, rain, and snow of the northeast for eight years. I wanted it to have a nice rust patina that looked like it had been hanging on the eaves of a lobster shack, at the end of a pier, for many a year, being splashed and buffeted by nor'easters and sudden gales. Seeing it was taking so long, I decided to take things into my own hands and, ah, "help" mother nature along and accelerate the process. I searched the net and found mostly dangerous methods to induce rust on steel using highly caustic or acidic chemical solutions. However I finally did find a simple safe method, using on-hand household chemicals, buried deep within a thread on the subject at a metalworking forum. I got spectacular results which have not only withstood the wind and rain of the southwest but have actually improved with the help of mother nature. I like the results so much, and there is so little practical information on the subject that is accessible to the general public, I thought I'd share this simple method with the instructables community.
Judging by the number of posts on forums asking how to do this, I see I am not the only one who wants to actually promote, rather than prevent, rust on iron and steel objects. I found out the basic information for doing this at the very cool ArtMetal forum: http://www.artmetal.com/blog/bob_turan/2009/04/rust_promoter . I'm guessing that there are more than a few instructables members who have a similar desire to prematurely age some iron/steel artifact, so I encourage people to post pictures of their resuls in the comments and add tips on how they did it so we can all learn. This method is not set in stone. Posts about useful variations on the method are always welcome.
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You will need the following:
Household Chemicals:
- White vinegar (any brand)
- Hydrogen Peroxide (3% -- use a fresh bottle)
- Table salt (any kind will do, doesn't have to be sea salt)
- Degreaser (any brand)
- Measuring cup
- Measuring spoons
- Spray bottle








































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I want to add my experience with this method. I live in south Florida where sun heat is good, but I wanted to accelerate the drying process and applied extra heat with a propane torch: unexpected and beautiful results. Then I applied a few times more of the solution recommended and dry it again with the torch, obtaining (depending of the heating time and distance from the piece) different shades of brown. Also I sprayed on the plate (by mistake) black spray paint, and kept working with the torch and adding solution and drying it, obtaining excellent results.
Note: protect yourself with a proper mask for any possible fumes, aside of the rest of the recommended protection. I was working on 1/8 regular steel plate. At the end I sprayer with clear protector for metal and sanded to diminish the glossy finish. See the results!
Wow, that looks fantastic! I will try that next time I need to rust something. And thanks for the kind words.
My first attempt i washed it off and the rust came off with the water.
Any suggestions?? I wish to rust a steel item quickly, and finish it with a polyurethane spray.
I am going to post a pic on my website for people to check it out. It is the 32 ford custom coupe. www.Metalartpro.com
It is created by mixing the hydrogen peroxide with the vinegar.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peroxyacetic_acid
I'm not saying it's not a great idea, but I'm saying be super careful not to get it on your skin. It's extremely corrosive and will probably destroy plastic it is stored in over time. It works well for rusting things because it oxidizes whatever it touches at an accelerated rate. Including skin. So I might not agree in saying this is SAFE. SAFER, perhaps, than using more frightening chemicals, but...
Note that the stuff I have stripped is likely electroplated or cold-galvanized. I haven't tried anything with a heave hot-dip galvanized coating, but it probably takes longer to dissolve all of the zinc.
I didn't know there was such a thing as that paint but this way must be cheaper than any commercial product. I also found a very cheap way to produce a nice green patina on copper and brass. the commercial products to do this are outrageously expensive.
http://asuwlink.uwyo.edu/~metal/patinas.html -- the second formula.
I got a sal ammoniac block from Ace at the time but I don't see it now at their website. I found that eBay has ammonium chloride powder cheaper than what I paid for the block. It would also dissolve much easier than the hard block.
Cheers,
Mr. Lunna XIII