Step 2: Safety First

You will need the following safety items:

  • Safety goggles (enclosed type for chemicals not open type)
  • Chemical resistant gloves (available at home stores)

First the usual disclaimer: I will not be held responsible or liable for what you do with this information. You are ultimately responsible for using this information in a safe, conscientious manner and for not using it irresponsibly. This information is for instructional purposes only, in the spirit of sharing, and is not intended to be misused by wise guys for practical jokes, or used by people who shouldn't be handling chemicals in the first place. Young children should always have adult supervision when using any chemical. Never use chemicals when medicated (legally or otherwise) or under the influence of alcohol. These instructions are intended for, though not necessarily limited to, people with an artistic bent who just might want to rust something made out of iron or steel.

You will be using an acid, vinegar, and an oxidizer, hydrogen peroxide, so do wear the safety goggles and gloves. Be careful where you spray the solution. It is mildly corrosive and will rust anything made of iron or steel. Do this outdoors preferably in a place sheltered from the wind and away from people or pets. Do use common sense and follow common safety practices. Do not spray chemicals at anything other than the object you are trying to rust. Obviously don't spray it anywhere near people or animals. Don't breathe the vapors. They are irritating. Don't get it near your eyes or anyone else's. If you do get some in your eyes, go and rinse your eyes with cold or lukewarm water immediately. Although the chemicals used are relatively safe, common sense should prevail. If you do not possess common sense, please don't try this at home, or anywhere else for that matter.

Now that we got that out of the way let's get started.

<p>Hello,<br>I paint signs. I have a customer who would like a rusted steel sign, and I was thinking of preserving the lettering as shiny steel while rusting the background. This means I would need to mask off the letters so the muriatic acid doesn't eat through the mask. Does anybody know what I would use to coat out or mask the letters to keep them from rusting? </p>
Vaseline works for paint. You can rub it on the area you do not want paint to stick to and rub it off after painting, so it may work for rusting as well.
Hi, did you ever try this? Can you remember how you did it in the end. I want to do something similar with some signage at work and am looking for any advice. Thanks in advance :)
I know this sounds crazy but use finger nail polish to protect the lettering then use finger nail polish remover when finished
<p>I don't know about muriatic acid. You'd need something impervious to acids, like a plastic-based paint, acrylic, epoxy, but then you need to remove the paint without damaging the rust. Difficult. I see a lot of rusted metal signs that have laser-cut lettering. That'd be the way to go.</p>
<p>How long does the item need to dry/cure before it can be exposed to the rain. I don't want the rain to wash off the top finish.</p>
<p>I put my bell out immediately. The patina only got a deeper color.</p>
<p>Hi Laral, </p><p>Thank you for the great article, very imformative :) I am just wondering can you safely add a clear preservative finish to this that will not destroy the rust and obviously stop any further rust from occurring?</p>
<p>Thanks for your appreciation. You can spray the final result, lightly, with clear acrylic to preserve the finish. Several people, in the comments, have applied a clearcoat powder coat.</p>
Hi Laral!<br>Thank you for this instruct able method. I have been searching forums and videos and Knife etching sites etc etc forever for something I could apply to my scrap metal sculptures that was in my kitchen pantry &amp; home. Your method is the best I've found! I saved it to my notes a few years ago and finally got to try it. Here are the results. First 2 are pics of the mild steel cut out &amp; welded piece. First step, I ground off scale and oxidation. Then I actually used just a few oz white vinegar to pickle the piece, then added half a tablespoon of salt, few more oz of vinegar and because I couldn't open the spray bottle of Hyde Perox I sprayed about 2 oz into that mixture in a glass measuring cup. Then poured that into the pickling spray can and commenced to see if it would work anyway. It did!!! See the last pic. One interesting thing is that I actually was able to get color from just spraying on the Hydrogen Peroxide after the first mixture was depleted and that seemed to have an even stronger effect. As you can see, I didn't want a uniform rust effect. I played around with dripping it and spraying in different patterns and even using my rubber gloved finger to smear it around. Now I will finish it with matte clear coat Rustileum to seal it. Thanks again!!!
<p>Thank you for your appreciation and for the feedback. Very interesting about using peroxide only, and varying the degree of rusting that way. The final results look great.</p>
Hello, the company I work for is hanging 7x5' Corten Steel panels on a 200' long wall. The patina on the steel panels is darker than we'd like. We're trying this formula to make it more orange. How long does it take after we spray it 4-7 times? Also how long do we need to wait before we seal it once we get the colour we want?
<p>It sounds like they already have a deep patina which you'd get after leaving them outside for a while or if the patina was created using strong acid. Did you try a patch to see if you can still create an orange patina on top of the old one? It's impossible to say how long it would take, but on bare clean metal the results are instant. It should be bone dry before sealing it. A heat gun would accelerate the drying.</p>
We came to the same conclusion about too deep of a patina after trying the solution on the back of one of the panels. Nothing really changed. I found that by wiping a dry cloth over the surface it lightened the colour a bit closer to what we are going for. Do you have any suggestions on reversing the patina to get back to more of an orange colour before we seal it?
<p>Another thing I am thinking is that the sealer would also darken the color so be aware of that and maybe try it on the back first.</p>
<p>I was afraid of that. There is no way to reverse it. The only way to get what you want would be to sand off or etch off the patina to bare metal and start over. If the patina is very shallow you could sand it off but it would be messy and a lot of work. You'd be best to take them down and work on them in a safe place. It is possible that sanding would rough up the patina and actually give you a lighter color. That would be easiest.</p>
<p> I had laser cut mild steel letters <br>and logos for a customers building. We did a muriatic and hydrogen <br>peroxide patina and the letters came out beautiful. I sent them out to <br>clear powder coat and the guys had ruined them. I had the powder coat <br>baked off and the metal sandblasted. We are trying to re-patina the <br>metal and it is just not biting into the metal at all. I have <br>re-sandblasted the metal a few times thinking maybe there was residual <br>powder coating somehow left behind. The only thing possibly different <br>now from the time we first did the set is the air temperature outside. <br>Is there anything we can do to get the rust to bite more into the metal <br>so when we neutralize it and rinse the rust does not come off the <br>surface? Does the air temp effect the process ( 1st time when the came <br>out great was upper 70's and now we are in the 100's )? Any direction <br>would be greatly appreciated.</p>
<p>What did the powder coat do? Why not just leave them as is and let nature take over? I see rusted iron signs all over the place and they are natural.<br><br>By bite do you mean form a deep patina or that it is not forming any patina now? If the latter, maybe the surface is too smooth. Did you try pickling it with acid again? That seems to be a necessary step. Read my section on pickling.<br><br>Higher air temp should accelerate the process. I did the bell in 100+ degrees direct sunlight.<br><br>Don't rinse it at all if you use the mild mixture that I recommended. I guess you would have to if you used muriatic acid but you say that removes the patina. So what is the advantage of using a caustic acid like that if it doesn't produce a deeper patina? Why not try this much safer mixture?</p>
We sprayed the acid a quite a few times on the metal prior to the hydrogen peroxide. I am thinking the acid is evaporating to quickly due to the heat now and not getting a chance to work.
<p>Ahhh! OK. Then why not put the letters in a plastic pail with a lid on it and just barely seal the lid to allow escaping gases. You can get 3 gal or 5 gal 'icing buckets' for free from Sam's club or any bakery.</p>
We need to clear coat the metal because it will be attached to a new building and do not want rust streaking down the building later. We have used the acid multiple times and had success always. The first time around they came out beautiful. After tne powder coat was ruined (to much was sprayed on and left extremly milky areas) and baked off we are now strugling with the patina getting the deep various colors.
<p>I was afraid of that. So now you have bare metal right? Did you try just acid to pickle it before using acid/peroxide mixture?</p>
<p>You think if if pour iron oxide on top of the clear coat on the hood of my car I would get this nice effect without it rusting??</p>
<p>I don't know. You mean a red iron oxide powder sprinkled onto wet clear coat? It would probably not look the same. It would be more uniform. Natural rust tends to have variations over the surface.</p>
<p>Iron oxide that you get when rusting steel wool completely. Mmm then I guess I'll have to sprinkle it uneven cuz I don't want my hood rusting for real. It may develop holes from that or damage it badly. I'll try to do this on a sample piece of metal first to see how it looks.</p>
<p>No you would not want to rust the metal itself. Try a sample piece like you said. The only thing is, it may very well wear off in time and will not look good. Then you will have to strip it and start over.</p>
<p>I posted this before but there is no way to link to it so I'll just quote it: <br><br>Have a look at: <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20080108073034/http://asuwlink.uwyo.edu/~metal/patinas.html" rel="nofollow">https://web.archive.org/web/20080108073034/http://asuwlink.uwyo.edu/~metal/patinas.html</a> -- the second formula. I got a sal ammoniac block from Ace at the time but I don't see it now at their website. I found that eBay has ammonium chloride powder cheaper than what I paid for the block. It would also dissolve much easier than the hard block.<br><br>Very easy to do, cheap, works great.<br><br>Here is my sample done on a copper tubing end cap.</p>
<p>how do you patinate copper or brass ?</p>
Here are my results so far... i had already stripped and sanded down this fender to bare metal... then rinsed with water, sprayed with white vinegar, then with the mix of vinegar/hydrogen peroxide /salt. .. so far i think 3 times ive done the treatment... thank you for this post - I plan on making this into a mailbox! I'll update the progress.
Well, it looks like it is rusting nicely. Please do post the final result.
<p>Hi Laral, I recently applied your treat formula on some corten steel planters. About 12 hours after I applied the treatment, it rained non-stop for two days. The steel is orange in color and has not darkened. What do I need to do to darken it? Is there anyway to get the two planters to match quicker (doesnt have to be perfect but somewhat better than now).</p><p>BTW, I applied your treatment to the other planters about 5 months ago. </p>
<p>Hi David,</p><p>Note if this is made from Corten then it will stay a lot lighter then raw steel.</p><p>Corten has an Orange colour to it, as you can see in Image attached.<br>The fresh bit was installed today.</p><p>Kind Regards,</p><p>Rogan</p>
That's really orange. What did you use to rust it?<br><br>Note that my wind bell is cor-ten but is a lot browner than this.
Only time and the elements will darken it really. The treatment only produces thin surface rust. Those planters look like they have a nice dark patina.
<p>Hi Laral,</p><p>Thanks so much for posting this rusting process!</p><p>I&rsquo;m trying it out on a steel fire pit .. as we &lsquo;speak&rsquo;&hellip;</p><p>Here&rsquo;s a question: I&rsquo;m looking for a way to seal the rust finish, <br> which won&rsquo;t result in toxic fumes if it <br>is heated by fire.</p><p>I want the rust finish but not quite so dirty to handle. I <br>am not expecting to find a sealant which will hold up over time and weathering <br>and fire. Its ok if the sealant breaks down when it is in direct contact with <br>fire but I&rsquo;m not ok with toxic fumes.</p><p>Any suggestions?</p><p>Lucy</p>
That's a tough one. I have no knowledge of a non-toxic sealer that won't emit toxic fumes near fire. An idea would be to try using just egg yolks and water. See http://www.instructables.com/id/Egg-Tempera-Painting/?ALLSTEPS for the general idea and http://www.eggtempera.com/technical-info/egg-tempera-paint for details. &quot;Tempera paint is insoluble to the extent of not being picked up by over painting and when completely dry is relatively water resistant. However, the paint is not absolutely water proof and can be disturbed by the application of water.&quot;
<p>Wow - That's an interesting idea. I'll have to experiment a bit with this one. I want a clear sealer. It'll be interesting to see if egg yolks without pigment results in a clear coat.</p><p>Thanks for responding</p>
<p>Oh I think the thin coat will be clear, especially if you dilute it with water or vinegar. A little yellowing probably wouldn't be noticeable either.</p>
Im currently building a rat rod out of my pick up, and im thinking of using this process for the body. I was curious if you think it would work well on a large surface and also if there are any concerns I should consider before proceeding. Thank you.
I don't know for sure since I never tried this on anything that large but I don't see why not. Who would know more about that is http://www.instructables.com/member/scott.snow.921/. You could PM him. He does commercial metal work and he did mention using muriatic acid for rusting. That is more dangerous and has to be neutralized with baking soda or some base but it may be more suitable for a project like yours. You could try this method first on a small out-of-the-way area and see how it comes out. The only thing is, the rust is just on the surface in the beginning and is easily brushed off. You'd have to clear coat it to prevent that.
Hi, I know this post is a few years old but I just found it yesterday and tried it out on my box bike frame and it worked great but the rust wipes right off. Will the rust adhere itself to the metal over time and stop doing this, or will it just stay on the surface? Hopefully I hear back from you. And thanks for this post, I used the exact same ratio you posted and it turned out great! Only prob is that at this point it wipes right off.
*bmx bike frame not box bike frame hahaha!
<p>hey, just thought i'd mention that this will significantly decrease the strength of your bike frame...</p>
<p>I doubt it. Rust is only on the surface.</p>
<p>Rust might begin at the surface, but it does weaken the structural integrity, and will deepen as you mention in this instructable. Unless his bike frame is corten steel... </p>
<p>If you can avoid touching it for a while, the rust will penetrate deeper and become permanent. Or you can seal it with acrylic or polyurethane spray.</p>
Ok awesome! As long as it will eventually adhere to the metal that's fine. Hopefully it won't take that long. Once it does I'm gonna spray it with some matte clear coat(I hoping/assuming that's what you mean by acrylic or polyurethane spray) to seal it. I bought the frame in bare metal(no clear coat) and as soon as I got it(when it was still all nice and shiny) I put some die cut stickers on it so that once it rusted I would peal the stickers off and the logos would be &quot;unrusted&quot; in to the frame while the rest of the frame would have a nice rusted patina. But it was taking forever for it to rust and when it did start to rust it was really uneven. But your formula worked great!! I'd like to post a pic in this comment to show you how it turned out but can't figure out how to do it. Anyway, thanks a bunch!
<p>It could take some time to develop a thick layer of natural rust. Wet it often and leave it in the weather. You could just clear coat it right after you rusted it but a thicker natural layer of rust would be more resistant to scratches. Please post photos, this sounds really cool. Isn't there an 'Add Images' button below the edit box? You need to enable javascript.</p>
<p>finally figured out how to upload the pics hahaha!! I haven't taken the stickers off yet cause I'm waiting for the rust to adhere itself to the metal a little better.</p>
<p>What's on there, one application of rusting solution? Did you clear coat <br> it? Why not go all the way and rust the handlebars, clamp, and fork, and maybe the pedal cranks? It would look <br>great. You'd have to strip the paint to bare metal and sand and degrease <br> it thoroughly, which I assume you did for the frame.</p>

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