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Step 6Unfolding the head
For the next step you need Pepakura. Download the trial for free, but include enough time for the unfolding, because you unfortunately can't save it.
In Anim8or, put the "leveling staff" beside your head, but don't let your head go over or under it. This is important, because then you would get wrong sizes. Hide everything but head and rectangle and export the object as a 3ds-file (Object - Export)
Open the 3ds-file with Pepakura and denie every question except that of joining the edges.
If you don't see any textures, click on 3DModelWindow - Texture Configuration and load them again. Navigate around your model with the mouse (zoom is on the middle button) and specify the open edges: Click on the cutter on the toolbar (it should be selected already) and click on all the edges of the head that you want to cut along later. You don't have to specify all open edges (not as many as on the image, maybe like 30% of them), only the ones that need to be open. Choose a more vertical structure, that makes you thinner ;)
Edges where the textures change should always be open.
Unhook Auto and click on Unfold. Choose Specify Value. The size should be your actual size, therefore you have the rectangle beside the head.
Now you see a bit of chaos in the right area that you have to get under control, using the right-click-options, especially Join/ Disjoin Face. Finding out by yourself what they all mean is the easiest way to learn to make comfortable Unfoldings.
Don't forget to add flaps to the neck, so that you can attach it to the body. Put the big size-rectangle anywhere on the left of the screen, so it won't be printed.
What is also really important for comforting crafting is that the flaps are alternating on one and the next one on the other side of the open edges. Do this as the last step. This keeps the parts in their forms and makes everything more stable, because the parts intertwine better.
When you are done with organizing the parts, click Configuration - Line Style and hook "Hide Lines that are almost flat" with a value between 0 and 180 degrees (a higher value means more folding lines, which doesn't look nice - 140 degrees is a good compromise). Don't forget to hook "Color flaps with neighboring face colors" in the Flap Configuration, otherwise your papercraft will have white edges.
Then print your papercraft on the thick paper. You may want to change all quality values to maximum in printer setting and paper configuration, to get the best result. Make a few screenshots of the open model, so you see where the parts go.
Printing it a second time with concept settings on normal paper can't be wrong.
In Anim8or, put the "leveling staff" beside your head, but don't let your head go over or under it. This is important, because then you would get wrong sizes. Hide everything but head and rectangle and export the object as a 3ds-file (Object - Export)
Open the 3ds-file with Pepakura and denie every question except that of joining the edges.
If you don't see any textures, click on 3DModelWindow - Texture Configuration and load them again. Navigate around your model with the mouse (zoom is on the middle button) and specify the open edges: Click on the cutter on the toolbar (it should be selected already) and click on all the edges of the head that you want to cut along later. You don't have to specify all open edges (not as many as on the image, maybe like 30% of them), only the ones that need to be open. Choose a more vertical structure, that makes you thinner ;)
Edges where the textures change should always be open.
Unhook Auto and click on Unfold. Choose Specify Value. The size should be your actual size, therefore you have the rectangle beside the head.
Now you see a bit of chaos in the right area that you have to get under control, using the right-click-options, especially Join/ Disjoin Face. Finding out by yourself what they all mean is the easiest way to learn to make comfortable Unfoldings.
Don't forget to add flaps to the neck, so that you can attach it to the body. Put the big size-rectangle anywhere on the left of the screen, so it won't be printed.
What is also really important for comforting crafting is that the flaps are alternating on one and the next one on the other side of the open edges. Do this as the last step. This keeps the parts in their forms and makes everything more stable, because the parts intertwine better.
When you are done with organizing the parts, click Configuration - Line Style and hook "Hide Lines that are almost flat" with a value between 0 and 180 degrees (a higher value means more folding lines, which doesn't look nice - 140 degrees is a good compromise). Don't forget to hook "Color flaps with neighboring face colors" in the Flap Configuration, otherwise your papercraft will have white edges.
Then print your papercraft on the thick paper. You may want to change all quality values to maximum in printer setting and paper configuration, to get the best result. Make a few screenshots of the open model, so you see where the parts go.
Printing it a second time with concept settings on normal paper can't be wrong.
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