Introduction: Real Pipboy / IronMan : Wearable Heater + Runner Utility Light
The Creation of Man by Prometheus (by J.M. Hunt) : "Prometheus had assigned Epimetheus the task of giving the creatures of the earth their various qualities, such as swiftness, cunning, strength, fur, and wings. Unfortunately, by the time he got to man Epimetheus had given all the good qualities out and there were none left for man. So Prometheus decided to make man stand upright as the gods did and to give him fire. "
Step 1: Real Pipboy : Wearable Body Heater + Night Running Utility Light "Prometheus" [ With User Interface + Rechargable ]
Problem Tackled :
And so, with the ensuing cold, the problem of athletes being cold on the run , and people in general being cold in overly air conditioned buildings, I invented Prometheus - an open source wearable heater.
DISCLAIMER + Final Words :
There is a wearable heater by the name of "Wristify" but it heats via a peltier element, relying on the psychological mishap and trickery of the wearer in order to work. Prometheus is actual warmth and as such if you decide to create this project, know that it is by your own discretion and that I am not liable for any injury.
Step 2: Video Overview + Minimum Electrical Diagram
Main functions and how the thing works + simple electrical diagram!
* To clarify Temperature Set Point :
Upper Value after " Heat On " Is what temperature the heater comes on at.
So in the video I kept increasing the value at which the heater would turn on. The moment the sensor value becomes LESS then the set point value [ or set point value becomes GREATER then the temperature sensor value ] then the heater will engage.
See : " // HEATING ELEMENT Routine" for more details in code below
SIMPLE VOLT METER :
See image above of how to make a simple volt meter using a voltage divider , reading voltage into an analog pin
Step 3: UPDATES
Excel Sheet : Includes Full Running List Of 3D Model Updates For Band + Cover
ipt = inventor parts for editing
stl = 3D print ready files [ units = mm ]
*Print with PLA since tolerances are minimal [ although present ]
* Drill Hole For Laser Pointer instead of 3D printing
Step 4: FULL FEATURES
- Wearable Heater Via Nichrome 22 Gauge Wire
- For running at night :
Utility Light : 1 Watt L.E.D.
B-Seen Blue L.E.D.s
Laser With Diffraction Grate [ to definitely be seen ]
- OLED Display
To See Set Point Value for heater
To See Battery Power
To See if unit is working properly
The Lights Automatically turn on at night [ via the photoresistor ]
Step 5: 3D Print Cover + Band [ 2 Main Parts ]
If you cannot open up the inventor parts
Or you just want to 3D print the damn thing , here are the parts
Step 6: 3D Model Parts
NOTE : The "cover " and "band" do NOT have room for a 3.7 V Lipo - The lipo battery is worn on a fake leather bracelet not yet shown [ look for video soon ].
Software : Autodesk Inventor Professional --- > Free 3 Year Trial By Signing Up http://www.autodesk.com/education/free-software/a...
3D Printable Parts :
ONLY PARTS NEED TO BE Exported as stl and 3D PRINTED
Other Parts = How Things Come together if you choose this model that has the laser pointer & screen
References : There are a few parts I found on grabcad that will be referenced in the official write up
these include : the transistor [ acting as the TMP 36 sensor ] and the pcb board , among others.
With "Prometheus_band_V1.0_sd" Open in autodesk inventor professional, just change the sketch " Main Ring" under "Extrusion 1" to adjust the size for your wrist.
Note : Other features may change as a result - I have average sized wrists.
Trouble Shooting :
Problem : Assembly Not Complete or cannot find the files
Solution : Once you download Autodesk Inventor Professional , Download all the parts into 1 folder. Then when prompted for parts, simply search that folder to upload into the assembly
- 3.7V 3000mAhSize 4mm(H)X45mm(W)X143mm(L).ipt
- Prometheus Assembly.iam
- Transistor Head.ipt
- Transistor Legs.ipt
Step 7: Heat Calculation
HEATING ELEMENT CHOSEN :
- The heating element used was nichrome wire.
- Although dangerous if the length is not properly measured, the nichrome wire provides some of the best heat conversion from electrical power [ ie the battery ]. It does this using the inherent resistance of wire [ in the same way toasters work ].
OTHER HEATING ELEMENT OPTIONS :
- A peltier element would work , but not nearly as well.
- Much like goose bumps, a peltier element could be pulsed to create fluxes of warmth [ or cold ].
- There are other heating elements, such as ceramics, but they tend to be too expensive and often require voltages higher then most smaller lipos [ usually 5 - 12 volts ].
For these reasons above, the nichrome wire was used.
READ! --- DISCLAIMER : Nichrome wire can get red hot if you do not properly calculate the wire length. As such, it is at your discretion when creating this project. I will post a video to demonstrate the safe setup, with the battery chosen, and how to safely test the nichrome wire.
The picture from the "Nichrome Wire Application Calculator " provides relativity warm and safe output for batteries at or above 2000 mAh. * Your battery needs to be able to provide this amount else it will overheat.
Nichrome Wire Application Calculator Website Used : http://www.jacobs-online.biz/nichrome/NichromeCalc...
Step 8: Electrical Schematic [ Full Functions ]
I will go over the main portion [ heating part ] in a youtube video.
See "Features" to understand the other elements of the circuit
See Above For Simplified Electrical Circuit
Step 9: Electrical Parts
- Pro Trinket
- TMP 36[ analog temperature sensor ] : *Get a couple just in case
- Usb micro b Cable : here
- 22 Gauge Nichrome Wire[ need 18 " ]
- Power Mosfet- TIP31AG [ cq627 ] : *NPN needs positive signal from microcontroller to turn on : * Get 2 if You want the kick ass laser as well
- 3 V Mini Relay : * Get 2 if you want the laser as well
- Pushbuttons [ any pushbutton will do ] * Get at least 8
- Slide Switches : * Get at least 5 : 2 for back up
- OLED display : get the " 0.96" Inch Yellow and Blue I2c IIC Serial 128x64 Oled LCD Oled LED Module for Arduino" or else I cannot help you with trouble shooting for others - unless you don't want a display [ it's optional ]
- 1 - 3 W White L.E.D. [ large utility light ] :
- Pre-Soldered Waterproof Blue L.E.D.s [ B - Seen lights ]
- Mini Speaker-* If you want a beep if battery is low *** I literally used an old phone speaker
THE CHARGER + Battery Are located Underneath the Assembly on a separate fake leather band
*DANGER : Discharging the lipo battery below 3.4 Volts is Dangerous - which is why there is an oled display
Step 10: CODE
MAIN CODE : Prometheus_V1.0_sd
Main Libraries Used :
- u8glib or go here : https://github.com/olikraus/u8glib
- Servo.h -- > Included in Arduino IDE
Other Tabs / Codes are for references and other oled displays
This code is quite involved because of the features mentioned.
But the upcoming video will show the minimum for the code and shows what all the other lines of code are doing.
Step 11: FINAL WORDS - Please Read
I'd love to see what you guys do with this.
It may not be much, but I hope it changes the perspective we have of technology, if only a little.
I will upload another version without the laser pointer and with the charger built into the 3D printed cover & band if enough demand is present. Let me know in the comments
Instead of reaching for technology, why don't we wear it?
Online Engineering Portfolio : http://www.surgerobotics.com/
Email : firstname.lastname@example.org
I would be willing to create one of these with other features if
- the parts were paid for
- there was some sort of compensation [ this one's on the house ]