Step 5: In Line

Here is the final product.

Having the quick fill was nice, but it was kind of a pain to switch back and fourth between adapters to use the tank. So I made a in line adapter so I could use that tank while it was filling, plus since I kept the quick fill adapter, I can fill two tanks at the same time.
This worries me a bit. Air tanks must handle moisture and normally have a drain valve to get rid of water. A propane tank may not face the same issues with moisture as propane probably has no water content. They also have no drain valve. I worry that these tanks may over time suffer loss of strength and explode. It could be very, very serious. <br> Perhaps an engineer that designs air tanks could chime in on this.
Just turn the tank upside down for a minute or so and then vent the air out of the tank very quickly. If you have an air hose attached just keep it lower than the tank. This will blow the water in the tank and hose right out. Easy as pie !
That is easy to fix, For the smaller standard grill size tanks, I just flip them upside down about once a month and open the valve, So far, no big moisture issues or water buildup, however there is always a bit of water in the main compressor tank when I open the moisture drain<br><br>As for the big tanks, it may be a bit harder to flip them upside down to drain them, but I have built my own air compressor system out of 4 of the big house tanks mounted upside down on the shop wall. For the compressors I have 3 motor/compressors that fill the tanks up pretty quick, and stop at 125 PSI.<br><br>Also keep in mind that these are heavy duty tanks that hold Propane, Propane stores at over 200 PSI. I think the tanks are pressure tested at around 600 - 700PSI, Not sure on that.<br><br>As a general safety, if the tank is pretty rust on the outside I don't repaint, instead I just replace the tank. My big 4 compressor has been working for the last 2 years with no problems at all.
Just turn the tank upside down for a minute or so and then vent the air out of the tank very quickly. If you have an air hose attached just keep it lower than the tank. This will blow the water in the tank and hose right out. Easy as pie !
<p>Slightly off topic, but wondering if anyone can suggest a way that I can be acertain a stanar propane tank isn't pressurized? I'd like to remove a head off of a tank that I'm 99% sure is empty. (I'm making a hank drum) I can open the twist valve, and no sound or hiss, but i believe there's a 'safety' valve that only allows a release when it's attached to a hose/stove/whatever - which I don't have. Can I take it into a home depot and just attach a hose and try the valve? Is there a special tip that engages that safety valve? </p>
<p>i have one i want to cut in half so i can sell it for scrap- it smells like the additive they put in propane but ive had it full of water- is there any propane in there, or is it just stinky? ive already got 3 air tanks </p>
<p>It smells from the ethyl mercaptan residue they add to the propane to make it smell bad. The ethyl mercaptan stink takes a long time to go away.</p>
<p>To prevent rusting on the inside of a tank just pour some auto cavity wax in the tank before you build it up. Warm the tank first then pour some liquid was inside and swirl it around. Leave it to set and you're done.</p>
can you take a 1lb tank and convert it to an air tank
The only other problem with leaving the standard propane valve on there is that some have a safety shutoff built into the valve so if you were to try to use a lot of air at once the valve may shut itself off, to reset it you have to turn the valve off and then it should reset in seconds or so. <br> <br>I figured this out by trying to use a wheat burner and when I would hit the lever to ignite it the gas would shut off.
I had a dry rotted o-ring on my grill. I leaked. The filling place I use gave me a replacement just for the asking.
Is it not a 'idea' to use a household cylinder for a year, and then cycle that back into the supply from the gas men? If you have gas heating, then you'll go through a fair few cylinders, so why not us one that is already checked, and of a known suitability, then after a year or two swap it out for a 'new' one?
as far as rust preventative couldnt you spray in a dose of latex sealer or some such coating? <br>
Brilliant!! Sometimes the simplest idea's are the best. the thought that immediately came to my mind is, Why not use the newer hands free grill connector? &nbsp;Of course, the whole idea is using old obsolete tanks, so probably most wouldnt have that syle of valve. &nbsp;
I used the old style connector because it will work on both the old and new style tanks, Plus you really don't need a tool to put the old style on, I have always hand tighten mine and never once had it leak.<br /> <br /> On tanks the had propane in them yet, I always use the proper wrench to tighten, it's not big deal is air leaks, but if propane leaks it can have some negative effects.<br />
&nbsp;I meant tool free connector, not hands free. &nbsp;Why can't I edit my comment once I post it?
You could use this tank as an auxiliary tank to increase the air compressor capacity <br />
Be careful of used tanks as they are being discarded for a reason, out of date for safety may be the biggest of them. Tanks can and do rust from the inside and around the welded areas. Where I work we sell bottles and propane and we have had safety bulletins about a tank blowing because of a weak weld. Luckily no one was killed. Test the tank by tapping it with a non-sparking hammer around the bottom and near the welds while listening to the difference in sound. You may also want to flood the tank with water to rid the tank of the smell before using it for an air tank. After which you may also want to add some alcohol to the tank to get rid of the water then let it air dry in the sun to remove the alcohol.
I use the hundred pounders for my house. How much pressure are they rated for? I really dont want to find out the hard way .
According this <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.propanecarbs.com/propane.html">http://www.propanecarbs.com/propane.html</a> a propane tank fill with propane can see vapor pressures as high as 257psi. Use that as a guide at your own risk.<br/>
Thanx, I'm sure not to need that much pressure but its good to keep in mind
Where did you get the ball valve?
That one I got out of the scrap pile at work, you can normally find them at just about any store that has plumbing supplies.
so it is a pumbing part?
Yep it's just a standard threaded 1/2" plumbing ball valve.

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