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Step 6The art: Proper preload adjustment
I will assume you have obtained a cone wrench already at this point. If you are attempting to do this with regular tools, it will largely demand upon a skill that I cannot explain in words with any accuracy to achieve the same results. A trained wrench hand can try though...
Loosely assemble the hub assembly and install the "fixed" side, and secure that side's stud nut (lug). With a cone wrench in hand, slowly tighten the cone as you spin the wheel opposite the tightening direction until you feel a slight growl from the bearings through the wrench. The growl says "too tight". Loosen 1/8 turn at a time and moderately seat the locknut against the cone. Remove the wheel from the fork.
Spin the axle by hand, it should spin freely (gooey actually) without any grittiness, yet without an excess of free-play (looseness). You should just barely be able to detect looseness and never feel a "gritty" sensation. Keep in mind that the preload will increase when you secure the axle lugs, so you want a slightly loose setting to counteract this effect. Wipe away any excess grease as well, as some will ooze out past the seals (indicating overfilling, but a little bit over is desired), and the bearing will automatically purge excess grease to the amount it can use as it rotates.
Reinstall the wheel with the "fixed" side tightened down to full torque and the other side free...Spin the wheel very lightly to look for the sign of "stepping", where the wheel seems to lock into a "detent". If you do not see this, tighten the other lug loosely, hold the wheel steady and try to rock it laterally to feel for the slightest sensation of a "clunk". Ideal is that this should be barely perceptible. No perception of this means to loosen the cone by 1/6 turn at a time until you feel it. Do not mistake the flex of the fork for freeplay.
When you are confident you have this set to a barely perceptible sense of free-play, lock the cone locknut down firm, but not tight yet. Torque the remaining lug to proper torque. Spin the wheel barely, again checking for "stepping". Check for freeplay again. if there is none, it *maybe* is too tight still. Loosen "adjustment-side" by 1/4 turn, locknut and all, and retighten all as if it was final assembly. Check again for freeplay. If you can perceive the slightest bit of freeplay, tighten the cone 1/8 turn, lock it back down, and repeat until the clunk is completely gone, but NO tighter. If you have reached this point and the wheel has no lateral freeplay but spins freely, you are just about done.
Time and experience with performing this service will make this easier and quicker each time, until you can do this in your sleep and even skip a few steps and still come out perfect.
Loosely assemble the hub assembly and install the "fixed" side, and secure that side's stud nut (lug). With a cone wrench in hand, slowly tighten the cone as you spin the wheel opposite the tightening direction until you feel a slight growl from the bearings through the wrench. The growl says "too tight". Loosen 1/8 turn at a time and moderately seat the locknut against the cone. Remove the wheel from the fork.
Spin the axle by hand, it should spin freely (gooey actually) without any grittiness, yet without an excess of free-play (looseness). You should just barely be able to detect looseness and never feel a "gritty" sensation. Keep in mind that the preload will increase when you secure the axle lugs, so you want a slightly loose setting to counteract this effect. Wipe away any excess grease as well, as some will ooze out past the seals (indicating overfilling, but a little bit over is desired), and the bearing will automatically purge excess grease to the amount it can use as it rotates.
Reinstall the wheel with the "fixed" side tightened down to full torque and the other side free...Spin the wheel very lightly to look for the sign of "stepping", where the wheel seems to lock into a "detent". If you do not see this, tighten the other lug loosely, hold the wheel steady and try to rock it laterally to feel for the slightest sensation of a "clunk". Ideal is that this should be barely perceptible. No perception of this means to loosen the cone by 1/6 turn at a time until you feel it. Do not mistake the flex of the fork for freeplay.
When you are confident you have this set to a barely perceptible sense of free-play, lock the cone locknut down firm, but not tight yet. Torque the remaining lug to proper torque. Spin the wheel barely, again checking for "stepping". Check for freeplay again. if there is none, it *maybe* is too tight still. Loosen "adjustment-side" by 1/4 turn, locknut and all, and retighten all as if it was final assembly. Check again for freeplay. If you can perceive the slightest bit of freeplay, tighten the cone 1/8 turn, lock it back down, and repeat until the clunk is completely gone, but NO tighter. If you have reached this point and the wheel has no lateral freeplay but spins freely, you are just about done.
Time and experience with performing this service will make this easier and quicker each time, until you can do this in your sleep and even skip a few steps and still come out perfect.
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