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Step 2Schematic and Design
The circuitry inside the pedal is mostly incomplete, because you will be hooking up components on the breadboard on the surface.
The potentiometers and switches are all wired up to connectors so that they can be used on the breadboard however you want. DC power coming in from the power brick is connected to the binding posts, and the footswitch controls signal routing and power.
A LED indicates power, and also indicates short circuits.
Here is a link to a higher-resolution schematic:
Schematic
The box will be comprised of two three-sided segments which will fit together like a handshake. My plan was originally to do a 5-sided box, but that turned into major troubles and I didn't like the outcome. I redid it doing two three-sided shapes and it was a much better result. For this reason, a couple images depict the original design and attempt, and the rest are of the two piece that worked much nicer. The old ones are included just for some additional information.
My template in the photos is for a 5-sided box, but it can be very easily followed for 3-sided shapes instead. I've drawn over top of it to show the shapes and holes you need for the two 3-sided shapes.
The dimensions are 8.5"x4"x1", using 1/4" graphing paper to make everything nice and easy. The pots, switches and binding posts are in a line across the top, spaced "1 apart each. The footswitch and LED are 1" from the nearest side and 1" apart. Take into account the dimensions of your breadboard before punching and drilling holes.
Follow the image below. It shows the flat shape of the two segments we want to make, and outlines the holes to drill.
Cut out the design and tape it to your aluminum sheet. Mark your cutting lines around the perimeter with a sharp metal implement. A nail or scribing tool works nicely.
Mark the center of each component hole with the center punch and hammer. Remove the template.
The potentiometers and switches are all wired up to connectors so that they can be used on the breadboard however you want. DC power coming in from the power brick is connected to the binding posts, and the footswitch controls signal routing and power.
A LED indicates power, and also indicates short circuits.
Here is a link to a higher-resolution schematic:
Schematic
The box will be comprised of two three-sided segments which will fit together like a handshake. My plan was originally to do a 5-sided box, but that turned into major troubles and I didn't like the outcome. I redid it doing two three-sided shapes and it was a much better result. For this reason, a couple images depict the original design and attempt, and the rest are of the two piece that worked much nicer. The old ones are included just for some additional information.
My template in the photos is for a 5-sided box, but it can be very easily followed for 3-sided shapes instead. I've drawn over top of it to show the shapes and holes you need for the two 3-sided shapes.
The dimensions are 8.5"x4"x1", using 1/4" graphing paper to make everything nice and easy. The pots, switches and binding posts are in a line across the top, spaced "1 apart each. The footswitch and LED are 1" from the nearest side and 1" apart. Take into account the dimensions of your breadboard before punching and drilling holes.
Follow the image below. It shows the flat shape of the two segments we want to make, and outlines the holes to drill.
Cut out the design and tape it to your aluminum sheet. Mark your cutting lines around the perimeter with a sharp metal implement. A nail or scribing tool works nicely.
Mark the center of each component hole with the center punch and hammer. Remove the template.
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