While I wouldn't consider the jewellery I have made to be on the same level as the incredible Party Wall, being lucky enough to work around some talented independent board builders has given me the opportunity to get creative with the same kind of materials. I find that the laminated (and sometimes wickedly bent) skateboard veneers make a great canvas for my woodburning hobby. Also known as pyrography.
In this DIY Instructable, I will show you how I salvage the offcuts from our board building workshop, and turn them into a product I call #CHAMPCHAINS.
Laminated Skateboard Offcut (or scrap piece of wood)
Pen or Pencil
Protective Clear Coating (Krylon Triple Thick)
Strip or Edge Sander
Step 1: Preparing the Pendent
This #CHAMPCHAIN was commissioned by a customer that wanted his 'Handmade' logo burned into a round pendent, and beaded with matching colours. Because the outside shape of his logo was a perfect circle, I used a pencil compass to draw the outline before cutting it out.
Step 2: Cutting the Pendent
Using a scroll saw is easy, but hard to master. It is a good idea to make the cut on the outside of your line and use a sander to bring it to its final shape.
* The closer you get to the line, the less sanding and honing the shape will be required afterwards.
Step 3: Sanding the Pendent
Once I have the outside of the wood pendent cut roughly to shape, I fine tune the edges by lightly touching them to the strip sander. Not only does the help with the final shape of the pendent, but it also gets rid of any rough edges caused from the cutting process.
After I am satisfied with the edge profile, I use my handheld sheet sander to sand the faces of the pendent smooth and break the sharp edges.
Step 4: Layout the Design
Place the printed logo on the transfer paper, make sure you have the grey (or black depending on the paper) side of the paper facing down onto your wood canvas. I usually put a few pieces of tape on the image to help secure it and the transfer paper to the pendent.
Once it is taped down where you want it, you can trace the outlines of your image and transfer it to your wood. I usually only do this for the outline of the image I am transferring, and do the smaller details by hand. This helps make sure that every important line is in the proper spot.
Remove the printed image and transfer paper to reveal the freshly transferred design!
Step 5: Burn the Design
I use a professional woodburning system by a company in Saskatchewan called Razertip. They make two different models of woodburners and have hundreds of tips for various different strokes and effects. I mainly stick with two different tips, one for doing the outlines and the other for shading.
Whenever I do a woodburning, I start with the outlines and then shade in between the lines to give it texture. The process is slow and in many ways similar to tattooing...only wood doesn't cry when it's in pain!
To burn a pendent this size it took me approximately 30 minutes.
Step 6: Prepare Pendent for Beading
To apply the black stain I wrapped my finger in a cloth rag, dipped it into the stain and rubbed it into the wood. You only need a very small amount of stain to cover a pendent this size, and I find that rubbing it in (as opposed to brushing) gives me full control to apply the stain evenly.
Once the pendent is burned, and any additional stains are applied, you are ready to drill the hole for the bead string. I usually do this step with a cordless drill and my eagle-like vision to make sure it drills straight. If possible, I would suggest using a drill press if you are uncomfortable with doing this step by hand.
* the hole can be drilled at any point in the process before beading
Step 7: BEAD THE CHAIN!
I asked my local bead store what the strongest, and thinnest beading string around was. They recommended a spool of nylon thread that is strong, but thin enough to allow it through the eye of the needle.
Use the needle to help guide your string through the drilled hole on the pendent and the beads themselves. When you are satisfied with the length of your beads, tie the two loose ends together tightly in a knot. I usually add a small dab of super glue to the knot, tie it one more time and then cut off the excess string with scissors.
Step 8: #CHAMPCHAIN
Whether I would simply use the laser to cut out my pendent shape, or to add the small text that is incredibly difficult to do by hand, the Epilog laser machine would be a tremendous asset to pair with my hand done pyrography work.
Hope everyone enjoyed this Instructable and learned a little about pyrography and how to make use of those tiny scraps of wood in your workshop!