Step 9: Shading, Part 1

If you choose to add shading to your work, it really adds to it and can also help give it depth. But I also must warn you that it is the hardest part and takes some experience.

First, decide where you want to shade (lion's mane). Second, determine how dark you want it to be and if you want to change the shading in different parts (gradient). For the question of how dark, i would say that the darkest should not cover up your basic and detail lines (picture 1).

How to Shade
Use the same nib that you used on for the lines (picture 2). I use the end of this nib which is flat and about 1 mm wide. Hold the pen like you would for a flat line and barely touch it to the top of the wood. While keeping it on the wood, move your hand in a circle, keeping the the nib at the same angle. You should notice the wood to start getting darker. Keep doing this until you get to the desired shade of wood. 

Keep moving the nib, if you let it sit in one spot too long or favor one part of the wood over the other, it will show. If this happens, try to blend the darker parts into the lighter parts. 
Awesome work. I tried my hand at some pyrography on a pub table and bar stool set. If you or anyone else wants to see them, look here https://www.instructables.com/id/Pub-Table-Bar-Stools/
<p>What about using a pyrotechnic powder do burn in the design?</p>
<p>Awesome job! I can't wait to try this! I wondered how people made fancy stuff...carbon paper...mind blown! I have a set, and now I'm about to be all locked up in my house...for. a. long. time! Haha -=80)</p>
<p>Hi... I have had a Pyrography set for a couple of years now, but have not been able to use it as I cannot work holding the pen at the end, I would like to be able to hold the pen nearer the nib, but as you know the rod gets to hot, does anyone have any suggestion as to what gloves would be best to use so as I don't get burnt?. any suggestions would be appriciated..</p>
<p>I took leather shoe string and wrapped mine using super glue along the way. I've been using this one for over a year now and it's still holding up. I hope it works for you as well as it has for me. P.S. I can't imagine doing this with welding gloves on. This is something you should enjoy! Great instructable also!</p>
<p>A welding glove is easy to work with as they have different sizes and thickness. You can find them at a welding shop. Mechanic gloves at auto part stores may work also. </p>
<p>I've already stained my wood - is it ill advised to burn the wood after it's been stained?</p>
<p>I read that heating up certain materials like stains and saps are not healthy for you to inhale. I would also think that the heat would also cause that stain to bleed and run thus drying in clumps and ruining your picture. </p>
Very useful instructions, thanks. Rana
<p>Just wanted to thank you for the inspiration and techniques. Did my first piece today thinking it would turn out badly and it went pretty well. You can definitely see where I have an unsteady hand at times but some of that was learning to use the burner though.</p>
I'm thinking about woodburning a cutting board. Is it safe to use for cutting or should it just be decorative?
<p>Also. You don't have to use transfer paper :) I ran out a little while back and just used a heavy leaded pencil and colored the back of the picture. It makes it kind of nice actually and now it's the only way I do it. I noticed with the transfer paper that it can rub off in unwanted places that you don't intend to burn on. And it was very hard to remove if I succeeded at all haha. When you color the back of the picture instead of using transfer paper, just tape it to a window so you can see the image clearly and only color where the lines you want to transfer are. I swear by it. Just a little tip to throw out there.</p>
<p>Good tips. I have read that light sanding will remove the unwanted. Have you tried that technique?</p>
<p>Very good site. Easy to view and understand!</p>
<p>First, in regards to the comment below mine. A soldering iron is not the same thing as a wood burning iron. Most wood burning irons come in kits with all kinds of cool tips to play with, and run at a higher temperature. Now back to you Scott. I prefer to work from the outside of a piece in, so as to not have a sweaty hand smudging the graphite. Also, once a piece has been outlined with the burner, that wood is now sealed off from the rest of the piece. This gives you the opportunity, say on the mane or tail etc, to use regular wood stains without fearing they would bleed into surrounding areas.</p>
<p>Hi, I'm a newbie in pyrography so I'm looking for some tips and... here I am :D<br>Here is my latest (anf first being honest :P ) pyrography artwork, hope you'll like it ;)<br><br></p>
<strong><em>That is brilliant, I`ve done a picture of a lighthouse in a similar way but id like to draw that lion it looks epic! 21 stars out of 10, this may not be possible but its just an awesome lion! well done!</em></strong>
<p>Thanks for the help with shading!</p>
<p>Novice question: Can I still pyrograph if the wood has been stained or should I stain afterwards?</p>
<p>I can see I'm two months late on this one but I would definitely not recommend that haha. I tried it once and it made me absolutely sick not to mention it doesn't burn very easily or beautifully. Even in a well ventilated area, the smoke that came from burning the laquer or whatnot made me vomit and feel sick for days. It made it to where I almost couldn't stand burning on any wood at all because of the lasting effects. What I ended up doing with the finished wood that I very much still wanted to use, was sanding it completely, then burning what I wanted, and then re-finishing the wood. I wouldn't recommend only sanding the part you want to burn, as it will look uneven and less clean when you laquer the parts that have been sanded. Haha I kind of went on but I just thought I'd throw that out there.</p>
<p>Beautiful! I really like the tree you have up in ETSY too. Yes, you can use colors but I would use them sparingly the idea here is to show off the burning. Thanks for the wonderful tutorial and awesome artwork. </p>
<p>Amazing 'ible but why Lannister =(</p>
<p>If your design isn't too detailed, you don't have to transfer it at all. I just tape the design to the wood (just the top like a hinge) with painter's tape and burn straight through the paper. Your work is beautiful. </p>
Very nice ible and work. Word to the wise with dark stain, I made my little boy a toy box and burned a train on the front, and after using a cherry wood stain I found that the shaded spots accepted less stain and came out brighter. Keep that in mind when choosing a colour or you may have to make your shading darker.
Inspiring instructable. Need to pick up my pyro pen again now that its Fall season. Thanks for the transfer technique.
Lots of pictures always make the instructable for beginners, and you did a beautiful job of matching your explanations with your pictures. I loved the tight shots that showed what nib you were using, and what part of the lion you were using it on. Just a great instructable.
Something I picked up in art class when I was in middle school and still use frequently. If you don't have or don't want to buy carbon paper, just flip your print out over and shade in the entire back side with the edge of your pencil tip. You are just putting a layer of graphite all over the back of your print out. Then tape it down and trace like you did. It won't leave real dark lines, but it will give you the entire outline just the same.
This is a great idea. Graphite paper can be expensive or hard to come by. This is a great alternative!
Now I have to try this! My wife is going to be so pissed lol
Thanks for this tutorial. I saw some old ladies doing this and was taken by it and my partner got me a soldering iron to give it a try. <br>I love the look of laser cut works but it bothers me that everyone just designs something and sends it away to be made. I want that look, but I was to design and create the entire piece myself. <br>Good to see how someone else is doing it and what kinds of techniques and materials they use. <br>The old ladies were doing an amazing job of it. <br> <br>
Your pyrography looks very nice. I am wondering if you could transfer the pattern using laser toner? Like is done to etch circuit boards. Although the heat of the iron may color the wood too. I also thought it might be easier if you used a different color of carbon paper maybe. In the pictures the transferred pattern, and the burnt design are difficult to distinguish from one and another. Maybe looking at it in person is easier? I've used a torch on wood myself to color in routed letters. So you might want to try a torch for some shading effects. I bet you could heat up all kinds of metal to brand the wood. Stuff like say expanded metal, for a cross hatch effect. Just thinking out loud there.
It's actually really easy to do with toner. While not as textured as the pyrography, it still looks great. I did several last year as Christmas presents. Search &quot;wood print photo&quot; for more info.
@pfred2: Thank you. Unfortunately i don't have a super high-resolution camera, but in person it is fairly easy to distinguish between the graphite transfer lines and the burned lines. It is sort of comparable to a pencil line and a black pen line. I think using different types of metal would be a great way to diversify a pyrography. I have seen people who make a personal branding mark out of a wire hanger.
Oh, this is excellent. I think I'm ready to give my woodburner another go! <br> <br>Could I use, say, watercolor or thinned transparent oil paint over my burnt in marks? Or would those obscure the lines?
I have actually never tried to do any coloring to my works, but I have seen it done before. Here is an example of another person using watercolors on their pyrography: http://browse.deviantart.com/art/Burned-Flower-355124823
Great job! Love the detail.
Wow those turn out looking really clean. Cool stuff!
Great Ible ! Thanx for giving an insight of the Wood Burn Art
It turned out really nice! I especially like the shading.

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