Step 1: Supplies
* An internet accessible computer
* An image manipulation program (GIMP is what I use here)
* 6 inches of Cross Stitch Canvas
* an embroidery hoop
* 1 skein of black embroidery thread
* an embroidery needle
* Heavy duty fusible interfacing
* An iron
* An ironing board
* White cotton thread
* (optional but highly recommended) sewing machine
* A red or orange marker (any color will do, but these show up best and allow you to see what you're doing)
* A rugged piece of clothing like a sweat jacket or coat
Step 2: Making the Code
Step 3: Scaling the Image
Resize the image to 500 pixels. This will make things uniformly sized. To do this use the menu bar at the top go to Image > Scale Image and you'll get the dialogue box. Change both height and width to 500 pixels. To finish click "Scale."
Step 4: Put a Grid on It
Now save that image and print it out. From there you've got your cross stitch pattern.
Step 5: Stretching the Canvas
Start by unlocking the embroidery hoop, unwinding the little bolt at the top of the hoop to loosen the frame. I use a wooden frame, but plastic is just fine too. Now remove the springy hoop from the solid hoop. Sit the solid hoop down on a flat surface like a table and place the cross stitch canvas over it so that has an even drape all the way around.* Now take the springy hoop and press it over the canvas like a wood and canvas sandwich. Press it down so that the two hoops are aligned and then tighten the bolt on the top of the springy frame.
* Don't worry about the hoop being round and the canvas being square. The hoop is just to give the fabric enough tension so that the sewing holds its shape.
Step 6: Cross-Stitching Skills
Tip 1. I tend to use my own spit to moisten the thread and hold it together (that's what my grandmother taught me). Just run the thread through your mouth until it holds together.
At the tail end of the thread you'll want to make a small but bulky knot. I recommend doing a triple slipknot. Basically make a circle and pull the tail end of the thread through that circle three times and pull it tight. It'll make that small but bulky knot that won't pull through your canvas.
Now you're ready to begin sewing.
Now take a good hard look at the canvas. You can see that it's full of tiny little holes that follow a grid pattern. Those will be your guide lines as you follow along with the pattern that we made just a minute ago.
Cross-stitch is probably the easiest sewing you'll ever learn how to do. It's called cross stitch because what you're doing is making little X's (crosses) all over the place and those X's then make shapes, in this case they'll make a QR code.
In the upper left hand corner of the fabric press the point of the needle through the bottom side of the fabric and up through to the top via one of the small holes. Pull the thread all the way through till your knot catches in the back of the fabric. Now press the point of the needle into the hole on the opposite corner of the square from where you began so that when finished you make a tiny little line like this: /
Follow the grid pattern you have printed out.
For every black square you will make a line: / and for every white square you will leave it blank. Do this until you come to the end of the first row of boxes in your pattern.
Tip 2. scrape the tip of your needle along the back side of the fabric to help give you a visual aid so that you come to the proper hole.
Once you have completed your row of /////// / / / /// / / etc., then you will start to double back to make the X's. In the hole directly below the top of your last /, press the needle up and through that hole in the canvas and down through the hole on the opposite end of the square to make a line \. Continue back down the entirety of the row until you have crossed every line you made. Your finished line will look something like this:
XXXXXXX X X X XXX X X ...
Tip 3. Always stitch in the same direction. If your lower stitches start from bottom left to upper right, then always make that the lower, and bottom right to top left for the upper stitches. This will make for a cleaner looking piece, and people will think you've got skill as well as fancy style!
When you come to the end of your thread (usually the last 1.5-2 inches, you'll want to bind it off in the back side of the fabric. To do this you run the needle and thread through the back side of the work you've done to lock the loose thread in place. Be careful to not run through the canvas or to the front side of the piece as that can mess everything up. Once you've got a good piece of it .5 inch at least locked under previous work you can trim off the remainder and not worry about it falling out or pulling out from the front side.
Tip 4. To make binding your thread easier, find the places where the back stitches have created X's and run the thread up between those strands. They're easy to get under, and they'll tighten the front up a bit too.
Step 7: Using the Grid Pattern
1. They're bold colors and easy to see and
2. They won't obscure the squares above so that you don't lose track of easy reference points as you go along the new line.
Step 8: Making the Patch
Get out your fusible interfacing. I recommend getting a thick, heavy one that requires a hot dry iron (Pellon is what I used here). Thick and stiff are good, because it means the patch will want to lay flat as much as possible which will make it easier to scan.
Place your finished QR-code cross stitch piece under the interfacing and using a pencil draw a border around it on all sides that's about .5-.75 inches. Pull out your cross stitch piece and set it aside. Now cut your fusible interfacing as you've drawn it.
Place the fusible interfacing on the BACK side of your cross stitch, centering the interfacing over your QR-code giving it the full half inch margins. Now fold over the loose ends of your canvas using the interfacing as a guide, and press those ends with your thumbs. You'll want to fold the corners in and under the long sides. Pull the interfacing out of your piece and continue to press those sides until they start to hold that shape. You may want to trim off some of the excess canvas, but make sure you leave at least a half an inch on the back side as well as the front. You don't want the piece to come unhinged or start unraveling.
Step 9: Fusing
Make sure your iron is nice and hot, because we're doing pressing and heating.
Place the canvas cross stitch piece without the interfacing on the ironing board. Press the edges and corners of your canvas so that they lie relatively flat. Put the iron to the side for a moment.
Align the interfacing so that it covers most all of the piece including the folded bits, but does not run off the edge. If it does go off the edge, then trim it again so that it does not go over. Place it shiny side down onto the back side of the cross stitch canvas Now press and hold the iron onto the piece slowly moving it back and forth until the interfacing has solidly fused to the canvas.
This will hold all your stitchwork in place as well as keep the code part flat on a garment.
Step 10: Binding
Use white thread so that it won't interfere with the barcode reader.
Step 11: Adding to a Garment
Keep in mind when placing the patch on a piece of clothing that if you spill something on it that obscures the code it may no longer be readable. So be careful!
That's it. I hope you enjoyed it.