Step 4: Lets do this!

Before starting this. I did some test runs using nanocrystals in toluen and water. The ones in toluene tended to work the best (except for the yellow which have purity issues and did not respond well in any form).

OK, you have all of your stuff laid out and ready to go. The procedure honestly is quite easy if the nanocrystals are pure.
  • Lay out some of the cyanoacrylate glue on a piece of uncolored material. I say uncolored because most dyes will absorb into toluene, coloring your mixture. My first trial was on one of those red plastic party cups and it ate the red right off. In my case I just used the plastic that the super glue came in. It seemed unaffected by both the glue and the toluene.
  • Add a small amount of the nanocrystal solution into your glue and mix it up. The glue should get thinner and more liquid when the toluene hits it. Unfortunately, some impure nanocrystals will cause the cyanoacrylate glue to thicken up. I encountered this with one of my batches. It was one I could never get pure and sure enough it turned the glue to rubber.
  • Now use this mixture to coat your LED any way you can. I found sort of rolling it around in the mixture generated the smoothest coat
  • Let it dry for a bit
  • Repeat the above for a total of about 3 coats (that tended to be the amount needed to get a nice uniform even coverage).

As you can see in my first test one. THe water soluble NCs result in
<p>Hi, also another good experiment is to get some EL phosphor (I used old expired powder on Ebay) as this is a lot safer but will not be as spectacularly bright. Ask Gwent, they sometimes have some and so does Dr. Jarek and other suppliers. Look for anything that says &quot;EL phosphor&quot; or &quot;microcircuit materials&quot;.. :-) The newer white material can be processed to get just red or green emitters out of it with some careful hackery!</p>
This is a really cool instructable. I think your warnings regarding cadmium are dead-on, but as people get kind of blas&eacute; about warnings, I thought I would add a link to Itai-Itai Disease article in Wikipedia:<br> <br> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itai-itai_disease" rel="nofollow">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itai-itai_disease</a><br> <br> Obviously, this is the result of long-term exposure, but even short-term exposure to cadmium dust is nasty, as inhalation is a very efficient means of absorption. So, have fun with this, but listen to PedroDaGr8's warnings, and if you have kids around the house, you might want consider some other way of getting your LEDs looking pretty.
Yep, though to be honest. On most of these the cadmium is enapsulated by a zinc sulfide shell. Some tests have shown very minute amounst leaking out but not enough to by cytotoxic. That being said not near enough toxicological research has been done on these to declare them anywhere near harmless. So if you have kids, its better safe than sorry, because typically heavy metal poisoning affects them MUCH more drastically than it does an adult who has stopped growing. Therfore, if you must do this with kids around the house use one of the cadmium-free types of quantum dots. I don't throw warning out just like that. I work with this stuff daily so I know its hazards first hand. Thanks for the link to Itai Itai Disease. I am going to include this in the warnings section as well in an update later today or tomorrow. I have a few things I need to correct; such as saying skip to page 2 instead of skip to page 3 and breaking out the warnings into a separate section.
by the way, the commen I don't throw warnings out just like that wasn't directed at you. It was directed at the common reader. Those who know already know that Cd is toxic.<br><br>Also, here are some cadmium-free formulations I have found:<br>CuInS (Copper Indium Sulfide)<br>InGaP (Indium Gallium Phosphide) - Near IR (~700nm)<br>InP (Indium Phosphide)<br>InSb (Indium Antimonide) - not sure on the toxicity of this one.<br>ZnSe (Zinc Selenide)<br>CuInP (Copper Indium Phosphide)

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