If you put a new animal directly into a fancy terrarium that you have spent hours designing and the animal dies, you will have to tear the whole thing apart, disinfect the entire thing, and you even have to discard the live plants, soil, and any decorations that can't be sterilized. It's a waste of a lot of time and money, not to mention frustration.
These days, the chytrid fungus is a real danger, even in captive populations, plus frogs can die from other causes, sometimes as simple as stress from shipping. If one of your new animals does die from something like getting knocked around during shipping, unless you get a necropsy, you won't know for sure that the cause was not a disease of some kind. Even necropsy information will sometimes be uncertain, so you almost always want to default to the practice of completely eliminating any chance of contamination of your other animals.
For this project, I used:
10 gallon aquarium (I got this one from the goodwill store)
Off-the-shelf, heavy duty screen lid
Glass panel for top of screen lid (from ReSource)
Repti-heat cable (14.75 ft size)
Felt, stick-on pads
Electrical tape
Industrial scissors (for cutting screen)
Razorblade scraper (for cleaning glass)
Driveway gravel
Piece of window screen (from ReSource)
Shredded red cedar mulch (from Lowes)
Bed-a-beast, compressed coconut husk bedding
ExoTerra forest moss, compressed sphagnum moss bedding
Zoo Med floating turtle log (I got mine from the goodwill store)
Split pods from Josh's Frogs
Pothos cutting (from one of my houseplants)
Organic potting soil (no chemicals or perlite)
Rock-shaped water dish (I got mine from the goodwill store)
Lees mealworm dish
Low wattage light fixture (recycled from an old aquarium)
Compact fluorescent bulb in daylight spectrum
If you use recycled items or items from the goodwill, like me, it's a good idea to clean them thoroughly and disinfect them, then let them sit in sunlight for several hours before you even bring them into the house.
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Signing UpStep 1Apply heat source
Cut the felt pads into thirds and use them to raise the tank slightly, so the heat doesn't build up too much and to allow the heat cable to pass under the edge without getting damaged.
You could use one or two small undertank heating pads, but do use the felt pads, no matter which heat undertank heat source you use.
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The easiest thing to do is clean the enclosure with bleach and clean water, then let it sit in the sun for a day or two, until it is completely dry. Bleach kills just about anything and it will completely dissipate if you just give it some time, so the enclosure will not be contaminated by chemicals when you are done. The UV in the sunlight and the dry environment will help to kill anything the bleach might miss.
If you need other advice or care information, I recommend the forums at www.caudata.org. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people there, who are committed to amphibian care and they share information freely.
Good luck!
If anyone is wondering about the requirements of keeping a herp, you can check their website - they have minimum cage requirements and detailed care instructions for the animals they adopt out. They are a good rule of thumb to make sure you have happy and healthy pets.
Just a hint for anyone who might be reading this: Any time you're looking to get a new herp, you can check your area for a similar rescue organization. They often have very well-behaved animals and they always rehab them to full health before they send them home with a new owner.
Cheers,
C.
In this case, these guys are so tiny that I'm going to be keeping them in their quarantine enclosure for several months as they grow up a bit. I have a much larger vivarium that they will go into after they reach their adult size. Also, I think that a naturalistic environment seems to help small amphibians with stress. In my experience they just do better in planted terraria with natural surroundings. Some animals could just care less about the furniture, but with the frogs they seem to respond to their environment.