Introduction: Quick Fix: Stripped Tapped Hole

Picture of Quick Fix: Stripped Tapped Hole

So you stripped the internal threads on a tapped hole? Don't have the ability, or extra space to move the hole? Well this is an easy fix for just that problem. Vote for me in the contests this is entered in.

Materials needed:

-Scrap wood: Quite literally any type of wood, but for the purpose of this instructable, I used poplar.

-Small shims: Small shards shaved off the corner of scrap wood.

Tools needed:

-Razor blade: It's what I had laying around, but anything sharp and sturdy will work (i.e utility knife)

-Screwdriver: I used a 4inch #2 Philips head, but if your screw is different use what works.

-Screw: Re-use the screw you were using before you stripped the internal threads of the hole.

Step 1: Creating Your Shim, or Filler.

Picture of Creating Your Shim, or Filler.

-Take a sharp blade (i used a razor blade, but have used a steak knife in the past), and angle it about 45 degrees from the corner of the wood.

-Slowly drag the blade a long the corner. Creating little strips of wood, that we will trim down to fit in the hole.

-Trim sides and length to fit snugly in the hole. (You may need more than 1 depending on the size. I used 2.)

Step 2: Surface Prep

Picture of Surface Prep

-Remove whatever you are trying to attach to the body of your project. In this case I am removing a face plate, from a Frankenstein guitar I've been working on for the last 7 years or so, but if you are working on the side of a box same principals apply.

-You will want to clear the area of debris, or wood fragments. Dust-off works well, but so does a strong set of lungs.

Step 3: Pack Your Filler.

Picture of Pack Your Filler.

-Start out with a shard of wood close to the width (if not a little bigger) of your stripped tapped hole.

-Push it in, but not all the way if you feel you need more filler.

-If a second shim is required follow the previous step, and insert into hole.

-Repeat as necessary.

-When everything looks tight, pack it in. Try to get as flush to the surface as possible.

Step 4: Finish Everything Up.

Picture of Finish Everything Up.

-Line everything up. Place the pilot hole in the faceplate, or any other project, over the newly packed pilot hole in the body of the project.

- Using screw driver replace all screws removed in step 2.

-Tighten everything up, and you are good to go.

Vote for me in the Fix it contest. Your comments, and constructive criticism, are greatly appreciated.


bpotts2 (author)2014-10-03

well done! I was taught this trick also by a guitar luthier, but he said you can use toothpicks also in case you want to reuse the scrap, woods wood I suppise

beluga4prez (author)bpotts22014-10-04

I have used toothpicks before. It's easy because they will typically fit anywhere you need them. I just used what I had laying around.

teddibear1 (author)2014-10-03

This is something used by carpenters for years. If this doesn't work, you could try a nutsert.

QBear1025 (author)2014-09-11

Great fix! Never thought of that before.

beluga4prez (author)QBear10252014-09-12

Thanks! It's actually an old trick my carpenter uncle showed me.

ZaneEricB (author)2014-09-12

Did you make the acrylic wover too? I dig it.

beluga4prez (author)ZaneEricB2014-09-12

Yup. I took a small sheet of acrylic, and traced out the shape with a wax pencil, and then just cut it with a Dremel. All the components fit well, just needed to "thin it out" around the Varitone Switch (which I also made) You can see in the picture attached that it is a little "cloudy" around the skull knob. I took a spade bit and went about half way through the acrylic so the body of the 12 position switch would fit in

seamster (author)2014-09-11

Nice trick!

beluga4prez (author)seamster2014-09-11

Thanks! Vote for me in the contests. Id really appreciate it.

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