Quiz-O-Tron 3000: Arduino quiz contestant lockout system by RoysterBot
Quiz-O-Tron_3000_QT3K.jpg

If you have ever watched a TV quiz show you have probably seen contestants trying to press a button in order to win a chance to answer a question. The contestant’s quick reaction time results in some kind of light and/or sound indicating victory. This is a practical way to choose the next focus of the game’s activity and it adds a bit of excitement to the process. So when my company's holiday party planning committee decided to have a trivia contest I decided to build a quiz contestant lockout system to add an extra dimension of fun to the festivities. This would help the planning committee’s mission of creating some entertaining activities for the event.

The minimum requirements were to have a system with multiple buttons that contestants press for a chance to answer a question. The first one to press the button would lock out the other contestants. The system would need to have a simple way to quickly identify who pushed their button first. And finally the system would need to be reset for the next round.

Considering the venue of the holiday party (an upscale wine bar) I felt that the contestant buttons would be one of the most important features. They needed to be hefty and able to withstand abuse by hoards of “beverage enhanced” partygoers. Fortunately I had encountered a really good contestant button candidate while visiting the local office supply store. Staples’ “Easy Button”, as made famous in their humorous ad campaign, is available in their stores. This device is a palm sized button modeled after the one seen in the Staples commercials. It is battery operated with a speaker that says “That was easy” when the button is pressed. It is well made and the ideal shape and size for use by a quiz contestant.

Given that the button is a self-contained electronic device I was confident that I could open it up and extend the switch functionality to the system I was building. The $5 cost was reasonable for the quality of the item. Plus Staples is donating the proceeds from the sale of their Easy Buttons (up to $1,000,000.00) to the Boys and Girls Clubs of America. So, planning to build a system that would allow four contestants to play at once, I grabbed four of these and left the store feeling good about my purchase for a number of reasons.

Now that I had the contestant user interface worked out I needed to decide how to implement the system functionality. Due to time constraints this needed to be done with material I already had. This turned out to be an Arduino Uno, one of Adafruit’s Proto Shield kits and some miscellaneous parts. This intro section includes a picture of the completed system that I dubbed the “Quiz-O-Tron 3000” (QT3K for short).




 
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Step 1: Tools and Materials


If you are new to microcontrollers or curious about controlling electronic devices with the Arduino, you may find this instructable helpful. In addition to some background info and explanations, I have included information in some of the steps that may provide you with techniques that can be used for other projects. I’ll discuss some alternate uses for the hardware built for this project later. But for now, here is a list of the tools and materials that were used to create the QT3K.

1 – Arduino ( http://www.arduino.cc )
1 – Adafruit Proto Shield for Arduino ( http://www.adafruit.com )
4 – Staples Easy Buttons
4 – Metal project boxes
1 – Plastic project box with aluminum panel
1 – 9V DC power source (battery, AC adapter, etc.)
20 – Red 5mm LEDs
21 – 3/16” rubber grommets
20 – Rubber feet
20 – 330 resistors
4 – 10k resistors
4 – 2.2k resistors
4 – PN2222A transistors
4 – 1.5k resistors
4 – 15k resistors
4 – 10uF electrolytic capacitors
4 – LM555 ICs
4 – 8 pin DIP sockets
4 – DB-9 female & chassis mount hardware
4 – DB-9 male & chassis mount hardware
4 – DB9 M-F cables with at least 4 straight through conductors
1 – panel mount momentary pushbutton switch
4 – perf boards
hookup wire
heat-shrink tubing
Velcro
solder
soldering iron
screw drivers
nut drivers
needle nose pliers
small hand files
Dremel tool
Dremel drill bits, cutting wheel and cutting bits
power hand drill
standard drill bit set
440 screws, nuts, washers




1-40 of 74Next »
nmvb says: Feb 19, 2013. 5:35 PM
Would it be possible to make this just with push buttons instead of a easy button?
RoysterBot (author) says: Feb 19, 2013. 6:28 PM
Sure. Any momentary contact switch would work.
cucoons says: Dec 18, 2012. 9:47 PM
Were any of you able to make the switch work on the new board?? I just ran into the same problem today with no luck =(
RoysterBot (author) says: Dec 20, 2012. 11:04 AM
I have updated section 2 of this instructable with details on how to get the new version of the Easy button to work. Let me know if this helps.
WorldOfTanks says: Nov 6, 2012. 8:42 PM
ok, i REALLY need a schematic, and i need it by tommorrow! or please tell me whats connected where. and what resistors are those in the front
RoysterBot (author) says: Nov 7, 2012. 6:12 AM
Can you be more specific? There are two schematics included in the instructable that show the value of all resistors and their respective connections.
WorldOfTanks says: Nov 7, 2012. 6:25 PM
ok i have a problem... im not sure what.. for box 1 where does led + input go to?
RoysterBot (author) says: Nov 8, 2012. 6:34 AM
If you are building the LED flasher circuit (STEP 4) to put inside the button box then you power the circuit with the LED+ and LED- connections. These connect to the LED+ & LED- connections coming from the Arduino shield (STEP 5). If you are not implementing the LED flasher circuit then you can ignore the LED+ & LED- connections from the shield to the flasher circuit.
WorldOfTanks says: Nov 2, 2012. 6:13 PM
im only doing 3 contestants... can you please edit the program for me to only have 3 buttons? i need it asap
RoysterBot (author) says: Nov 7, 2012. 6:09 AM
Since you'll only be using 3 sets of pins to work with 3 buttons, just change this...
int maxPins = 4; // Max number of pin sets
..to this...
int maxPins = 3; // Max number of pin sets
...and you should be good to go.
WorldOfTanks says: Oct 29, 2012. 7:37 PM
I NEED A RESPONSE ASAP!!!
-----------------------------------------------------
for the temp button did you solder the leads to the terminals of the button?
because i dont want to go spend alot for easy buttons, is it possible to run a temp switch (one similar to a arcade game button) instead without inserting any resistors?
RoysterBot (author) says: Oct 29, 2012. 8:46 PM
You can use any kind of switch you like. A normally open, momentary contact, push button like on an arcade machine is ideal.
WorldOfTanks says: Oct 30, 2012. 7:08 AM
alright thanks.
nyckid says: May 10, 2012. 12:00 PM
Nice setup! I would suggest using Cat5/Cat6 cable instead of serial cables since you're only using 4 wires. There's still room for expansion, but if you set it up with RJ45 jacks and use standard patch cables you can extend the range very inexpensively. :-)

-Ryan
RoysterBot (author) says: May 10, 2012. 12:09 PM
Thanks Ryan!
heato says: Jan 31, 2012. 8:36 PM
Awesome project RoysterBot! I am attempting to build one, but I think I have run into a stumbling block. I decided to try telephone cable as the interconnects, as it has 4 conductors and handy plugs at both ends. I think this is my problem though, I test the contestant boxes with a 9V battery & no cable and they work fine, but at the end of the cable I get no response. Do you think I am having this problem because of voltage drop on such a small wire? Could you post the size of wire that you used? Any help will be welcomed. Thanks again for sharing this fun project.
RoysterBot (author) says: Feb 6, 2012. 10:48 AM
The wire I used to connect the button boxes was about 20 or 22 gauge. Telephone wire should be able to handle the 9V. Have you tested the voltage you're getting at the button box end when you connect the battery to the wire and confirmed the proper polarity?
heato says: Mar 27, 2012. 6:19 PM
Hello to everyone! My project was a success! The Telephone wire connects worked fine, and was a quick and easy solution with ready made cables. My problem was in my layout or schematic. Had I plugged in all of my button boxes, I would have discovered my issue much sooner! It seems that box 1 & 4 worked fine, but box 2&3 the flashing lights were crossed. When the contestant button on #2 was pressed, the lights would flash on #3! (and vice-versa) I laid this out as closely as shown in the pictures in this tutorial, but somewhere there was a mix-up. At that point there was two ways of solving the problem, one would be to remap the code in the sketch, two would be to switch the wiring on the shield. If you run into this problem yourself, pick the solution that you feel most comfortable with. Have fun and good luck stumping your contestants!
RoysterBot (author) says: Mar 28, 2012. 11:24 AM
Congratulations and thanks for posting!
msamples795 says: Mar 20, 2012. 1:32 PM
will do thank you very much for your quick response
phunt46 says: Feb 29, 2012. 8:30 AM
I see the board model you used is the CA68-03C for this illustration. Have you came across the same make but board model T11A39?
RoysterBot (author) says: Feb 29, 2012. 1:54 PM
No I have not. I did not know there was a new version of the Easy button. Does it have new/different functionality?
phunt46 says: Feb 29, 2012. 2:36 PM
Same functionality just different boards. Tried multimeter on board, with no luck on any contacts. And yes, the batteries are inserted :). Pic below, is attached.
T11A39_buzzer.jpg
RoysterBot (author) says: Feb 29, 2012. 3:11 PM
That looks like a much nicer board. Please send me a high resolution version of that photo in email to roysterbot@gmail.com and I'll see if I can pick the best places to connect to in order to capture the switch functionality. I'll mark up the photo and send it back to you.
msamples795 says: Mar 20, 2012. 12:18 AM
hi RoysterBot i was having the same issue with the T11A39 i see one pad to attach for one side of the switch but i cant find where to attach the other my email is msamples795@yahoo.com if you think you can forward that photo to me as well if that's okay
IMAG0218.jpg
RoysterBot (author) says: Mar 20, 2012. 7:35 AM
I'll send you a suggestion via email. If you can confirm the modification works I will update this instructable with the results.
Beergnome says: Feb 22, 2012. 2:47 PM
very nice! and pretty simple and straight forward for a beginner/ intermediate Arduino/electronics person. Looking at this project is giving me ideas. We have a trivia night here at the pub and this would be a great way to augment the competitions. And the way you described your trivia competition is pretty much right in line with how I was thinking about changing up the game.

and you are right about the PWM circuits. I was thinking that a RGB LED could be used to give an indication to who chimed in first, second, what have you could be illuminated with a corresponding color, and the first responder could get the rainbow effect

of course, I believe this wold entail replacing the 555 timer with a ATmini with the proper code, that could be triggered by the MCU.

once again, great work!
and the Arduino is pretty there is also the notion of of having a scoreboard, perhaps one on each slap unit. but I'm thinking we would be approaching a Arduino unit or just a custom PCB with a Atmega in each base unit
RoysterBot (author) says: Feb 22, 2012. 3:34 PM
Thank you for your kind words!

I would be interested to learn about your version. Keep me posted.
lamandoh22 says: Jan 4, 2012. 12:40 AM
Good morning,
Please can you give an approximate cost in dollars of this project. Also, you only listed where the arduino and the shield can be purchased, can I assume that everything else is available at radioshack. This is a really impressive instructable and I admire the fact that you've laid it out so elegantly. Thank you for your time.
regulustech says: Jan 31, 2012. 9:05 AM
I bet you can get this cost down significantly. I used large pushbutton timers I got from Electronics Goldmine for $1 each and gutted the inside and replaced with my own pcb or perfboard. Since the pushbutton timers had a large plastic body I didn't need a project box for each button.

I mocked up the project using my arduino but then transferred the 328 to a perfboard arduino that cost about $7.

Bought 1 project box for the brains at radio shack for $3.

A handful of LEDs.
A spook of telephone wire for the hookups between the buttons and brains. ~$7.
Also you could go cheaper on the connectors (or go without) between the buttons and base station.

I think that was it. So you could get away with spending possibly under $30.
RoysterBot (author) says: Feb 6, 2012. 10:50 AM
This is great advice. Do you have details on the perfboard Arduino that you used? Thanks!
regulustech says: Feb 6, 2012. 12:32 PM
For anyone else that wanted to find it too:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Perfboard-Hackduino-Arduino-compatible-circuit/
RoysterBot (author) says: Feb 6, 2012. 10:52 AM
I found your Instructable on the Arduino perfboard. Thanks again!
RoysterBot (author) says: Jan 9, 2012. 8:46 AM
Hello! Thank you for your kind works. The cost was about $180-$200 US. This is mainly becase I used some expensive metal cases to mount the Easy buttons on. The Arduino and Proto Shield can be purchased from Adafruit Industries. Their web site is located here...

www.adafruit.com

Da Unknown says: Jan 22, 2012. 1:18 PM
I've been looking over this for a couple of weeks now. I've been meaning to ask: does the wattage of he resistors matter for this build?

I'm starting to get things prepared for this build, even attempting to use the suzo/happs buttons if possible like masterhibb. Thanks in advance
RoysterBot (author) says: Jan 23, 2012. 8:26 AM
The wattage of the resistors is not critical but I would not go below 1/8 watt. Let me know how your build comes out.
masterhibb says: Dec 11, 2011. 10:00 AM
I noticed a few people in the comments looking for alternatives to the Staples "easy" button. I'm working on building a similar system myself, and I found some large arcade buttons here: http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/954002xxxxz.htm.

They're more expensive than the Staples buttons, but they've got a much nicer feel to them, and they are still built to stand up to abuse (since they're designed to be mashed on hundreds of thousands of times at an arcade). They also have the added benefits of coming in multiple colors, and having a built-in light so the whole dome can glow when the player buzzes in.
RoysterBot (author) says: Dec 12, 2011. 9:08 AM
Those are awesome buttons and would be a good solution for someone who is serious about hosting Quiz Bowls.

Thanks for the post!
qvision1 says: Oct 15, 2011. 1:52 AM
hello,

the project is great! and i want to build it. My dad made the suggestion that why use the 555 time module at all?

Can't the software make the transitor go on and off so that the led's also go on and off ?? Then you don't need the whole 55 time thing and you could adjust the blinking speed as wel! plus it'll be less expensive to build and less time consuming.

Any ideas? I'm going to try this out for myself, but b4 i do i'd like to know if this is at all possible?

RoysterBot (author) says: Oct 26, 2011. 9:54 AM
Hello,

You certainly could do as your dad suggests and have all the LEDs blink in a programmable pattern. I used the 555 circuit because I have a ton of them laying around and the circuit allowed me to easily implement LEDs that blink with an alternating on/off pattern. Plus I plan to add sound effects to that 555 circuit board so I just want the microcontroller to send an on/off signal.

Let me know how your version works out.

Thanks!

RoysterBot
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