As a college instructor, I often enjoy doing review games - especially using PowerPoint for a Jeopardy! format. However, sometimes it's hard to see students' hands and the commercial buzzer systems are very expensive. I found a very basic game show circuit board at an electronics store, but the buttons were so small that it would never work for a team-style game. So I got the idea to use Staples Easy Buttons from another website that showed how to turn one into your garage door opener. These work great for team jeopardy because the entire team can sit around 1 button.
A few trips to Radio Shack and voila!
This is a lockout system, which means that once one person has pushed their button, it prevents anyone else from triggering their light. There is also a reset button for the moderator to "clear the board."
Total cost for a commercial system: ~$300
Total cost for this homemade option: ~$60
Bonus: I've attached a PowerPoint file that can be used as a Jeopardy template. All $$ on the main board are hyperlinked to the appropriate slide in the presentation. The small outlined arrow in the lower right corner of the home board links to final Jeopardy. I've also attached various Jeopardy .wav sounds for inclusion also.
Disclaimer: I am somewhat inexperienced with electronics parts/soldering - mostly self-taught - so I apologize for any sloppy work in the photos.
Jeopardy Exam 1.ppt671 KB
boardfill.wav126 KB
jeopardy_final.wav225 KB
opening_short.wav670 KB
ShortDoDoDoDoDoDo.wav452 KB
ThisIsJeopardy.wav48 KB
timesup.wav5 KB
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: What You Need
Game show/quiz buzzer circuit kit ~$15
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/game/vemk133.htm
(Note: I also found this at a small electronics store in town)
4 x Staples Easy Buttons - $4.99/ea
http://www.staples.com/Staples-Easy-Button/product_606396
6"x4"x2" Project box - $4.99
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062283&filterName=Category
4 LED lights (I used 10mm ultra bright red ones) - $1.79/2 pk
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3096133
5 LED holders - $1.49/2 pk
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062559
Slide switch, SPST - $2.99/2 pk (I might have used the mini version)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062488
Small, round adhesive pads (the really thin ones, not the thick rubber)
Single conductor, about 4 ft
2-conductor wire, about 20 ft cut into 5 4-ft segments. These lengths will determine how far your buttons can be placed from the control, so you can adjust the length for your needs.
(Note: I had used wire with many more conductors because I got a good price and I wanted thicker wire so it would be more sturdy)
1-in PVC pipe, about 4 inches
2 x 1-in PVC caps
Momentary switch, SPST, normally open - $3.39/2-pk
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062496
Silver spray paint (optional)
Small bits of heat-shrink tubing (optional)
Soldering iron w/solder
Hot glue gun
Desoldering bulb
Helpful tools:
Wire stripper
Dremel (drill will work, Dremel is better)
Helping hand magnifying stand
Large workspace
Time!









































Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »




I'll be making an instructable for mine too, would you mind if I put a link to this one on it?
1. Remove all resistors and capacitors from the board. Why? Because we don't trust them. This isn't the delicate part.
2. Take a dremel tool with a cutting disk, and cut through the top layers of the board just to the right of that drop of black resin hiding the chip that's obviously maintaining a closed circuit between the regions of the board that we'd prefer were left open. This also isn't the delicate part.
3. Scratch the non-conductive top green layer off of a small region of the board so that you expose the metal conductive surface and create a new solder point. The place you want to do this is right on the pathway that was connecting the lower part of the button press area with the hidden chip of evil that you dealt with in step 2.
4. Solder one wire to this new exposed area, and the other to either of the 2 available solder points above the other half of the button press area.
I'm an electronics noob.
They're both closed, but when you hit the button, they open. So it's like a backward circuit. Would probably work for some people (me!) but probably not for quiz shows.
Original post:
I started to follow your directions, and turns out this is wrong.
All I ended up doing was soldiering into two holes.
I can read the orange wire from my arduino (in analog mode), when i put the white wire in ground.
Ignore the scratching. Totally unnecessary. (I think.) Just connect to the holes.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/4031469/Photo%20Jun%2007%2C%209%2026%2033%20AM.jpg
I decided to make my own circuit board for this. I used a tact switch in the center of a single sided pcb. (This was easy for me since I have a CNC router, but I think that a band saw and a few drill bits could accomplish the same thing.)
I was afraid that the high resistance of the "button pad" would be a problem. I've also seen that stuff wear out in car remotes, and I didn't want a high usage device to go bad like that since I expect that it will get roughed up in it's lifetime.
I wanted to use the talking circuit somewhere else, too (to be annoying).
-Robbie
Thanks,
Pete
- Get a loud enough buzzer
- Additional power supply?
- Where to wire it into the board
- Figure out to make the sound only last for a second or two while keeping the LED light persistently on until reset.
I'll try to take a photo of what I ended up doing and post it.
This should save a whole lot of arguments over who rung in first at my youth group.
And at an affordable price too.
Also the reset button works better with 1/2" PVC rather than 1".
1. I'm assuming that if less that 4 people are playing it will still work?
2 I don't like the Easy button and will make this with the hand held button in #5?
3. I'll just use some other kind of momentary switch for the reset button.
Can sound be added?
If you are a soldering newbie, be sure you follow the correct soldering procedures (there's several videos on Youtube), or you'll mess up the board. One thing that happened to me is that I failed to put some hot glue on the wire connecting points to extend the LED reach and a couple of them snapped the solder connecting points.
Also, don't be lazy about tinning and cleaning your soldering iron of excess solder, or you'll have trouble.
The Chick