Step 11: Finishing

Put it all together, kinda
Now depending on how you made yours will depend on the final order of the build.  I have included a basic idea of what I went through to get it all together, this was my “R2-Do List” get it? Oh yeah.  Of course this list is based on my insane work schedule, so...

Thursday 4:40am till 5:00 am
1. Remove coffee grinder assembly and other bits to be blued and paint, items such as
a. Mesh Bib
b. Trim
c. Sound switch “washer”
2. Silicone tank seam top and bottom.  Also seal around wires for dome light, in and out
3. Fit another led light onto end of coffee strainer or perhaps body to direct light into the coffee ground unit and out eyes
Thursday afternoon – 1:00pm – if possible
4. Cut hole for heating element in lower front of R2’s body
5. Drill 2 holes for heating element plate, tap and test screw fitment, ensure screws can be threaded in and out multiple times
6. Drill and weld a bolt into bottom of coffee unit – will act as a ground point
7. Drill 2 holes in center of base. 
a. Align body to base and weld through the holes locking down the body
b. Or – continue drilling through and bolt in place
8. Cut slits in dome ring to accommodate rivets in top of body
Friday afternoon – 1:00 till 3:00 – if possible
9. Drill holes through tops of inside shoulder just off center towards the back of centerline and through the body where they meet.  Drill 1 hole through inside of one leg at cantilever level and mating hole on body
10. Weld legs to feet
11. Drill and rivet tops of shoulders to body
12. Cut trim piece to cover gap on back of temp control unit and rivet in place
13. Fit bib – drill holes through bib and into body.  Bolt in place.  Drill hole for sound switch, refit bib with switch and place and re-bolt.  Check for movement.  When secure remove
14. Remove element, switches and light cover
15. Paint and Pray
Saturday morning – 11:30am till ?
16. Fit new wires and new connections, heat shrink what you can
17. Make sure copper down pipe is secure
18. Re-install heater element plate and wires
19. Run cables through legs from feet and into body and terminate at foot switch and foot light.  Leave extra cable
20. Install sound system in one foot, feed cable through to body and mount sound switch, glue in place
21. Install transformer in foot, feed cable to tie into dome.  Pigtail Transformer to main power
Sunday morning - ?
22. Install blued coffee ground holder
23. Install coffee system wires, temperature controller and join tank to dome.  Hook up dome light and lower dome in place keeping an eye on the temperature probe wire.  Screw in head screws
24. Paint on finishing touches and allow to dry
25. Paint and fit new black center eye
26. Write an Instructable for it?

About the Paint.
I used a variety of paints for this build.  You can see in some of the pictures that the tank is all ready white.  The reason for being that I hadn’t really thought the process through and thought I’d save time by pre-painting part of it.  This doesn’t really work well though as there was way too much fitting, welding and refitting to be done before painting could begin.  So first holes were drilled for the wiring and then the entire unit was welded together.  With a little grinding it looked oh-so nice and shiny.  I was very tempted not to paint it, as I often am with builds like this.  It seems a shame to cover up metal work like this but this was always in the design.  I’m sure a carpenter feels the same if he milled ornate crown moulding with no fillers used only flawless process.  Then the buyer promptly paints it right in front of him, covering up all his work...
Anyway, the first paint I used was high heat enamel, kinda like a white version of barbeque paint.  It looked nice and covered well but was not suited for the job.  It scratched off so easy, not something that’s going to hold up well in a busy kitchen.  Then I thought of using your typical rust paint like Tremclad or Rustoleum, but decided against it.  These rust paints are durable, but they are soft for so long.  No I wanted something really tough and available without an environmental permit.  Enter, Epoxy appliance paint.  Resistant to scratches and chipping, scrubbable and somewhat quick drying.  Tremclad would have taken many days to reach a working hardness, the epoxy took 12 hours to get really hard and 24 hours for a diamond cure.
The blue anodize paint is similar to the enamel, weak indeed.  Looks great, but scratches easy.  I ended up using it anyway, but top coated it with a enamel clear coat.  It seems ok, but I guess only time will tell.
Other details, shadows and lines were completed with a combination of a sharpie pen, model paints and I have to admit some of wife and daughters nail polish.  Don’t laugh great colours and a nice hard finish.  This was clear coated as well
Finally the laser damage!  This was easy actually, and not painted on as well, which is why it looks great.  Instead I hooked the ground cable of my welder to the frame.  Ground the paint off just the very center of where I wanted the laser to strike, and struck an arc dead center.  This produces a blast of heat that scores the paint and metal in multiple directions providing the look of blaster damage.  Clear coat and Bobs your uncle, in my case he really is!  Hey Uncle Bob!
That big beautiful black eye!
Like I said at the beginning of this Instructable, I learned this trick off an astro-droid website.  Get yourself a 2 liter pop bottle and empty it of its contents.  Coco-cola would be my first choice but there bottle doesn`t work for this.  Pepsi brand bottle are perfect.  Just before the top of the bottle is the curved shoulder.  Cut out a section larger then you need.  Then out of this cut a circle ever so slightly larger than the size you need for the black eye, say 2mm larger.  Paint the inside curve of the lens with black paint.  The convex side will now be a glorious shiny black looking lens with the plastic forever protecting the paint behind it.  Now just carefully squeeze it into the hole.  At first you will think it won’t fit, but if you use toothpicks as leverage bars the soft plastic will yield and suddenly pop into place.  The gap where the metal of the eye piece and the dome meet is never perfectly flush, so the excess plastic of the lens fits in perfectly like a snap ring.  If it gets damaged it’s easy enough to poke with a razor blade in the middle and pry it out.  Make a fresh one and wiggle the new lens in.  I have made about 3 of them so far, not because they were damaged by others, but by me.  Often I would want to see what it looked like, forget the lens in, and then do some welding on it or painting.  So a new lens was required.
Last minute I decided to make additional trim for the front.  I wasn`t going to when I started this project thinking I would just paint it all on.  But as it takes very little time to come sheet metal I thought why not.  The trim was the section around the sound switch and the vents below the coffee grin holder.  Once again, each to his/her own.
Another idea I tried but just didn’t work well was to aim a high intensity LED through the eyes of the coffee grind droid.  These red lenses were designed for night viewing only and were designed to have just a faint glow as to not induce night blindness.  They even had an option where if you turn the housing an iris would close ½ way and reduce the glow even further.  A 1 watt star luxeon LED would barely light them up, and cast an icky glow on the coffee maker behind it, so I ditched that idea.  Even tried shinning a laser pointer through them, this made them glow a little but the nature of a laser is to shine one beam.  I would need either some kind of a splitter or 3 lasers, bah.