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Step 13Plumbing
Overview: This step explains how to solder and connect the pipes from the boiler to the turbine.
The Jensen turbine's nozzle is quite large of a diameter, much bigger than the Cheddar pipes. So in order for the pipes to fit, I had to use a coupling that fits between the two. Luckily, K&S makes a tubing variety pack. Sorting through it, I was able to find a piece of tubing that was just the perfect size, snug fit on both side. Silver solder the end of the Cheddar boiler pipe, to the coupling pipe, and to the turbine nozzle.
Note about soldering steam pipes
These model boilers get super hot (duh) so you need to use silver solder, otherwise when steaming up, the solder will melt. Believe me, it WILL melt your normal plumbing pipe solder. Use a torch like one pictured in the tools step, and not one of the small ones. You need to heat a big area evenly, so the small torches won't work.
Tricks for bending pipes:
Copper and brass tubing will buckle when you bend them, like straws. However, here are a couple of tricks:
1) Heat the tubing with a torch, don't melt it, but get it red. Cool it, and it then becomes very flexible and easy to bend.
2) If it is still too hard to bend to shape, you can use sand or salt. Tape up one end of the tube with a piece of tape, fill it with sand or salt, tape up the other end. This will help prevent the tubing from buckling since the sand/salt inside occupies the space. You still need to pre heat the pipe, doing this trick to normal pipes will still cause buckling... this is just an extra precaution. I was able to make the bends for this tank without using this trick.
After the pipe is completed, apply a small amount of taflon tape and connect it to the boiler. The jet nozzle fits into the turbine, and you want to get it as close to the turbine blades as possible without touching. Secure the nozzle by the set screw.
Once completed, give it another test run with the air compressor. Now you can just stick the compressor nozzle into the boiler's filler hole, and run it on air. The boiler's pressure gauge at this point will show you the pressure as well. Check for leaks in the fittings of the pipe.
Tricks for checking leaks:
Apply a tiny bit of dish washing soap mixed with water. Apply a few drops over the suspect areas where leaks can occur - around fitting ends etc. If there is a leak, you will see small bubbles forming / foaming. It is best to test this out before actually steaming! At this point you want to double check to make sure that all of the mechanics works well under air power.
The Jensen turbine's nozzle is quite large of a diameter, much bigger than the Cheddar pipes. So in order for the pipes to fit, I had to use a coupling that fits between the two. Luckily, K&S makes a tubing variety pack. Sorting through it, I was able to find a piece of tubing that was just the perfect size, snug fit on both side. Silver solder the end of the Cheddar boiler pipe, to the coupling pipe, and to the turbine nozzle.
Note about soldering steam pipes
These model boilers get super hot (duh) so you need to use silver solder, otherwise when steaming up, the solder will melt. Believe me, it WILL melt your normal plumbing pipe solder. Use a torch like one pictured in the tools step, and not one of the small ones. You need to heat a big area evenly, so the small torches won't work.
Tricks for bending pipes:
Copper and brass tubing will buckle when you bend them, like straws. However, here are a couple of tricks:
1) Heat the tubing with a torch, don't melt it, but get it red. Cool it, and it then becomes very flexible and easy to bend.
2) If it is still too hard to bend to shape, you can use sand or salt. Tape up one end of the tube with a piece of tape, fill it with sand or salt, tape up the other end. This will help prevent the tubing from buckling since the sand/salt inside occupies the space. You still need to pre heat the pipe, doing this trick to normal pipes will still cause buckling... this is just an extra precaution. I was able to make the bends for this tank without using this trick.
After the pipe is completed, apply a small amount of taflon tape and connect it to the boiler. The jet nozzle fits into the turbine, and you want to get it as close to the turbine blades as possible without touching. Secure the nozzle by the set screw.
Once completed, give it another test run with the air compressor. Now you can just stick the compressor nozzle into the boiler's filler hole, and run it on air. The boiler's pressure gauge at this point will show you the pressure as well. Check for leaks in the fittings of the pipe.
Tricks for checking leaks:
Apply a tiny bit of dish washing soap mixed with water. Apply a few drops over the suspect areas where leaks can occur - around fitting ends etc. If there is a leak, you will see small bubbles forming / foaming. It is best to test this out before actually steaming! At this point you want to double check to make sure that all of the mechanics works well under air power.
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2
Aug 3, 2011. 8:30 PMthe.rollie
says:
another trick for bending tubing: the way they make bends in trumpets and such: fill with water and freeze
Reply
34
Aug 11, 2011. 6:38 PM
onrust
says:
onrust
says:
Dude, that's a good one! The OLD school plumber trick is to fill with sand and cap it..... Thanks
Reply
Dec 13, 2010. 3:10 PMgafernandesil
says:
Can I use epoxy instead silver solder?
Reply
4
Jun 21, 2007. 4:18 PMThe Lightning Stalker
says:
This is a compression fitting. Compression & flare fittings don't need teflon (PTFE) tape.
Reply
2
Jun 21, 2007. 4:08 PMcrabfu (author)
says:
crabfu (author)
says:
It's not needed.... unless you have leaks, then it's a simple quick fix :)
Reply
4
Jun 21, 2007. 4:20 PMThe Lightning Stalker
says:
Putting teflon tape on the threads won't do anything because the threads aren't what actually does the sealing.
Reply
2
Jun 21, 2007. 4:27 PMcrabfu (author)
says:
crabfu (author)
says:
true, it's the end nipple that seals it... the threads only pushes them together. However, you'd be surprised that steam can leak out through the nipples and through the threads. If the nipple part leaks, the only way out it through the thread seams. It works, believe me... it's a hack but it does stop the leaks, just ask any live-steamer :)
Reply
4
Jun 21, 2007. 5:17 PMThe Lightning Stalker
says:
I'm not trying to argue or anything, it's just that I've used compression and flare fittings on water, air, and propane. When they leak, it usually means the fitting isn't tight enough. It could also mean that the mating surfaces are shot or there's a crack in the fitting. Maybe there's some loosening going on with thermal expansion and contraction.
Reply
2
Jun 21, 2007. 5:08 PMcrabfu (author)
says:
crabfu (author)
says:
Yes, no I think you bring up a good point, thanks. The end nipples are soldered on to the pipes, and sometimes they don't fit as perfect as you'd like - especially with my soldering abilities, and some of these older fittings :) So the end caps are tight around the pipe, and if the nipple leaks, it just comes out of the threaded areas, even when it is completely threaded in. It's just a quick hack & lazy solution, and seem to do the job most of the time.
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