Instructables
Picture of REVOLVE // A hardware-less coffee table
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So last year when I had a bit of down time before moving from icy Calgary to sunny-ish San Francisco. I thought I would try my hand at 123D Make and use it to create a piece of furniture that required no hardware for assembly. I wanted to do this for my IKEA challenged friends who never seem to understand that you need to use all the screws they give you, or you have royally screwed up. Inevitably the table/shelf/bed, always comes crashing down on their unsuspecting poor cat. This stupidity has to stop.

So my then roommate and good friend, Paul Hern from Replicate Designs, and I decided to spend a couple days over the cold winter holidays in his beautiful and well heated shop playing on his FROGMill. We spent 2 days from design to finished product.

 
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Step 1: Designing the basic form

Picture of Designing the basic form

I wanted the shape of this object to be relatively basic because the slicing process created by the program would be enough of a feature to draw you in. I also needed to have the design done pretty fast because Paul and I only had a couple days to see this project through. I hit the internet for inspiration and came across the Kitaj, a side table by Rodolfo Dordoni.

I wanted to make something a bit bigger and decided to convert this shape into a coffee table. Paul also needed a table for his office (his previous one made by a well known swedish manufacturer may have finally given out because he fell victim to the 'they gave us extra hardware' myth). We landed on the dimensions of 36" x 36" x 22".

In Paul's shop, we happened to come across a circular piece of glass that may have also come from yet another abandoned piece of 'put it together yourself' furniture that found it's inevitable demise. It was around 40" in diameter so we figured we could use this as the top surface of the table if we needed to.

This basic shape is super easy to model in any software platform really, and you can play with the curvature that you like. It's a curve that is spun/revolved around a central axis. I used Rhino to do mine and can't seem to find the file, but I have included my 123D Make (free) file if you would like to make your own. Go for it, you have my blessing.

Step 2: Slicing with 123D Make

Picture of Slicing with 123D Make
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Once I brought this shape into 123D Make and fiddled with the options they give you, I was able to land on a slicing technique and angle that I really liked. I also kept an eye out for floating small parts that would break easily. After about an hour or so of playing around, I was satisfied.

The program gives you a spot for you to put in the thickness of your material, which also changes the look of your design. You'll want to take this into account when doing your own version.

Since Paul had plenty of acrylic laying around his studio, we decided that before going big, we would first do up a quick prototype using some acrylic. We scaled the model down by 1/3 until it was 12" in diameter and went with a material thickness of 1/8" since we had more of this in kicking around.

On the right hand side of the screen, 123D Make displays the lines that are used to cut out the shape of each slice in whatever material it is you choose to use. Keep an eye out for little pieces that might break when cutting or moving around and adjust your number of slices and/or angles to find the best outcome you can.

We hit the 'Get Plans' button and save the outlines of the slices. I chose to use an EPS extension since I knew this would easily import into Corel Draw. Unfortunately, 123D Make doesn't do so well at saving cut material by 'nesting' the parts tight into one another. I was able to do this in Corel Draw by hand but this took some time in order to reduce the number of 18"x24" sheets I had to use. Regardless of that, it's all worth it. Not nesting your parts is wasteful and shame on you if you don't do this.

Step 3: The Prototype

Picture of The Prototype
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Using the nested lines in Corel Draw, we hit print and sent the file to the laser cutter. We made sure not to print slice numbers. Paul has presets for all thicknesses of acrylic so we didn't have to mess around figuring out the best speed and power for the job.

Boom. 2 sheets later, we had all of our parts. Assembly was quick and quite fun but our slot tolerances were too loose. The structure seemed sound, but had we properly measured the thickness of our material, the fit would have been a bit tighter.

Regardless, we were pretty happy with the outcome. We cut an additional circle and laid it on top of the prototype to simulate the glass table top. It's time for the real thing!

Step 4: CNC

Picture of CNC
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Paul and I decided it was time to go big. We made a quick trip to home Depot and decided Version 1 would be done out of chipboard. I quite like the industrial feel of chipboard and it relatively cheap compared to ply. When we got back we made sure to take a set of calipers to the material and measure the thickness. Each sheet was slightly different from each other so we took the average thickness of 0.78" and applied that to the material thickness in the original (unscaled) 123D Make file.

We exported the file again as EPS, but this time I brought it onto ArtCAM which is a CAD/CAM program used to create files for CNC machining. ArtCAM has a pretty awesome nesting function so this didn't take long. We used a 1/4" end mill so that we could make sure all corners had tight radiuses and away we went.

All in all, we had 5 sheets of 4' x 8' chip board to machine. We layed each piece down, loaded the g-code and cut away. for our first sheet we used small tabs to keep the cut parts connected to the stock material but quickly realized that this meant a lot of finishing would be involved.

For the second sheet, we decided to spit the file into 2 separate depths. The first cut was 0.5" deep. Once the entire sheet was done to this thickness, we stopped the CNC and and used 2 short nails on each slice to hold the part down onto the spoiler board. This made sure there was less vibration in the sheet which gave us better cut finishes and also held the part securely during the last pass of the cutter. Pulling off each sheet, we made sure to pul out the nails. since this was chipboard, you could even tell where the left over holes were.

Step 5: Putting it all together

Picture of Putting it all together
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Assembly was tricky. We started with one of the rotational slices and started adding the angled slices in. When we got about half way through, things became a bit tough. We underestimated the radiuses in each of the inner corners of the slots and realized that the compounded oversite was causing the pieces to not slot in all the way. We began filing the inner corners of the slots and things came together much easier. The last few pieces required some hefty hits with a mallet to get them into place but when it was all done, the whole structure held together really nicely.

Unfortunately we realized that our excitement got the better of us. We should have probably sanded each slice before the assembly stage and weren't willing to disassemble it again due to the feat we had just gone through. So we pulled out the same paper and painstakingly sanded each surface.

To seal the wood and make the color pop, we brushed on a shellac sealer, starting at the top and working our way down. We made sure to get into every little nook and cranny there was and in the end, the piece came alive. The finishing touch was laying the piece of glass on top.

We were done. Now it's time for a name. This is the hardest part of every design for me. I have had many names for this project, but as of today, I am going to call it 'Revolve'. This is an ode to the method used to create the original form that was imported into 123D Make.

Paul and I were pretty happy with our 2 day effort. Paul had a new table and I had a ton of fun making it!

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domenic315 days ago

amazing, such a smart design!!

msh135323 days ago

that's nice project. bravo

Rowanb6428 days ago
Very cool indeed.
nancyCpants1 month ago
It's a beautiful design, nthing requests for a kit or readable plans.
lo'neill31 month ago

hey i would really appreciate it if you could transfer the cut plans into a pdf or other readable document. I'd love to build it but im not about to buy corel draw for it. thanks

rs7cai1 month ago

good

jarikcbol1 month ago

Now, this project looks like just the thing a maniac with a Jigsaw, steady hands, and the patience of a glacier will have to replicate.

nthomas121 month ago
Super sweet, I think it's time for me take a class in 3d software!!
KUWAN1 month ago

Amazing work. And I agree with ridaly and AJMansfield, you need to make a kit and sale it!

Buy the glass after is much easy than a big CNC mill!

dianne1591 month ago
This is so coool. You're amazing
legamin1 month ago

dagnabbit! I saw one of those machines at a garage sale last week for $100 but thought "I'll just swing by later to see if they'll drop the price"...

Okay, I'm having fun for a moment but my reality is that I'd need to use my small home shop tools available to a mere thousand-aire (recently upgraded from a multi-hundred-aire).. Routers, chisels, band saw, table saw...the usual suspects.

But boy would I love to just have an afternoon fondling her buttons and dials like some machine perv! That looks so cool! I hope you enjoy every moment!

Best comment on Instructables ever.

"But boy would I love to just have an afternoon fondling her buttons and
dials like some machine perv! That looks so cool! I hope you enjoy
every moment!"

Wish i had a cnc

There are many great CNC machine plans here on Instructables. I built one starting in January from plans posted here and MakeCNC for about $600 (not including the old donor PC and router). I hand cut the MDF mostly with a jigsaw and a few pieces with a bandsaw at my workplace.

I would recommend you skip using a Dremel cutter and go straight to a Bosch Colt trim router or Porter Cable 690 router. I tried the Dremel first and it was terribly underpowered for wood. I had the Porter Cable 690 on a shelf and easily modified the holder for it. Works great.

You can also get into a Shakebo CNC mill pretty inexpensively, too.

Nesserz (author) 1 month ago

My bad. I forgot to attach the file. I've added it now.

giatros Nesserz1 month ago

Thank you for response. The file is empty when trying to open with 123D make!! am i doing something wrong, or the file is cracked?

giatros giatros1 month ago

everything is ok!!! my fault!!

nate22re1 month ago

Fantastic design! It is very inspiring.

strooom1 month ago

well done! May I suggest to also submit it to OpenDesk.cc

Also take care of your intellectual rights on this - using the right CC-license: you did a great design!

beejay1 month ago

Now, if you could figure out how to do a bi-level in that base and add a seat, then make your base taller, well, you'd have a dining room set that you could sell for $10-15K, easy. That table is a work of art.

diywannaber1 month ago

This may sound like a novice, but that is what I am to Instructables. How have you ensured that the glass sheet that is part of the table does not fall off the wooden structure created.

Well, the glass just lays on top of the base just like it does on any other table of this type. If you tilt the table enough, the glass will slide off, but the base is very strong and stable. That said, I wouldn't recommend having a bunch of kids playing hot lava, or wrestling teenagers, where this table is, but for it's intended use as a coffee table it's perfectly safe.

Naugas1 month ago

Nice work! Good design and well written. It gives me some ideas for sure.

(Btw, it's oriented strand board you have used, not chipboard. It's quite a different thing, really. :) )

Metalweasel1 month ago
Beautiful
Metalweasel1 month ago
Beautiful
jdavid221 month ago

http://cdn.instructables.com/FQM/3GDD/HY48EJYG/FQM...

this photograph is not complete, has 15 parts.

You can put the cloth with full parts?

thank you

thaizeal1 month ago

Thanks for the idea, I like it.

Zandoken1 month ago

Absolute excellence from start to finish, I'm very impressed! If you decide to market the kit, I'm very interested!

CraigRJess1 month ago

Sooooo, because I also live in Calgary and we're both on Instructables - does this mean you guys can help me with my project :~)

Very nice table. Use Baltic Birch - leaving the edges exposed to show the 13 layers and either paint the surfaces or glue laminate on both sides, then route it.

Lindie1 month ago

That is really nice! Good job!

Hfly11 month ago

Very impressive and inspiring. Thank you for sharing!

yellowcatt1 month ago

Nice job.

That is not chipboard though, it is Oriented strand board (OSB).

ridalyn1 month ago

You should precut and package a kit for sale (glass not included). I bet people would buy it.

I agree! I would love having the option to buy this in acrylic, wood, or possibly even chip board!

I completely agree; people would buy it.

I think this would look especially good cut from plate glass (e.g. with a waterjet cutter). Then you could fill some of the voids in the table with pebbles or something and make it even more awesome.

B-Art1 month ago
You really "nailed" it. Beautiful design!
mnewfield1 month ago

Now this is a project I would love to do. Time to call around to see who has a CNC machine I can use.

Great job on this.

cparsons71 month ago

that makes me want a big cnc mill now, very cool

Seagrey1 month ago

Wow! What a beautiful piece!

jerryjaksha1 month ago

Beautiful. Slicing at the angle made a real work of art out of it. I had no idea how easily that software worked. Time for me to play with 123Dmake and cut some chips on the CNC.

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