The project is just two RGB LEDs controlled by a ATtiny2313. Very cheap and easy to make with GREAT results!
Please give it a vote for the Microcontroller and I Could Make That contest and favorite!
My project is trying to imitate these.http://shoprollerbrights.com/. What's the point in buying them if you could make them???
Step 1: Ingredients:
- 20 DIP chip holder
- RGB common anode LEDs with appropriate resistors.
- A diode. Really any kind of diode will work. The only purpose it has is to lower the voltage a little bit. The battery pack which is 4 AAA puts out 6 volts. The ATtiny2313 peak voltage is 5.5 so I use a diode that drops the voltage (from the battery pack) .7v just to be safe. That gives about 5.3v which is just under the ATtiny's max voltage.
- Breadboard with jumpers
- Perf board
- 90 degree pin headers
- Female pin headers
- 4x AAA battery. I bought this one from Radioshack and it worked great. Usually I don't buy from Radioshack but it was cheap enough (2.99$).
- Heat Shrink
- Wire strippers/cutters/
- Soldering gun and solder
- Dremel or other device to cut perf board
- Electrical tape
- Double-sided tape
Step 2: Programming the ATtiny2313 and Schematic
Step 3: A Little Background on the RGB LEDs
I accidentally made the mistake of solder the common anode to the GND of the board. So most of the pictures will show them soldered to the GND of the board. Instead they should be soldered to the Vcc on the board.
Step 4: Beginning the Perf
The pin headers is for the power for the circuit. Solder a wire from the top pin header to the Vcc (of the ATtiny2313). The bottom lead gets soldered to GND of the IC. Check the pinout if you are unsure.
Now remember we are not actually soldering to the ATtiny2313 itself but we are soldering to it's socket. This is so that we can re-use the IC or reprogram it by just popping it out of the socket. If you soldered it directly to the board then you would have to unsolder the whole thing just to get it off.
Step 5: Preparing the Electronics
- Cut the leads short on the resistors and the LEDs. Make sure you leave a slightly longer lead on the LED so that you know which one is the common anode.
- Cut 6 two inch wires and strip both ends.
- Cut two different colored wires to about 2.5 inches. Strip the ends.
- Melt some solder onto the wires, LED leads, and resistor leads. This will make it a little easier to solder other wires to it.
- Spread apart the leads on the LEDs.
Step 6: Soldering
Step 7: More Soldering
According to the sketch here is what each LED connects to.
Green = Pin 11
Blue = Pin 12
Red = Pin 13
The common anode (from the RGB LED) gets soldered to the Vcc on your board. I drilled out two holes near the pin header and soldered the to wires to the VCC side.
Step 8: Even More Soldering
Step 9: Creating the Battery Pack Connections
Strip the wires coming from the battery pack. You may want to cut the wire you are going to put the diode of a little shorter than the other to keep them the same length. Solder on the diode and connect the battery pack to the female pin header. Don't forget to put heat shrink tubing on first!
Step 10: Test!
Step 11: Finishing the Board
You may want to put a big piece of heat shrink over all the leads on the LEDs.
Step 12: Mounting the Board
Now you may be wondering why I went through all the trouble of adding the two pin header connections. This is so that while you are skating and either the battery back comes off or the board comes off they will disconnect from each other with ripping anything. That'll ave you the trouble of resoldering things. Plug in the power. Make sure you have the correct polarity!
Step 13: Be the Cool Dude on the Skate Floor!
I hope you enjoyed these instructions if you have ANY questions feel free to leave a comment below OR PM me.
Don't forget to give it a vote for the Microcontroller contest and favorite!
Until next time!