1) A working Raspberry Pi (you can choose the model you want, I had the RPI 2 model B, but I suspect you can use any model
2) RPI camera V2 (you might be able to use the V1, but I like the quality and features of the version 2). I picked the NOIR camera because I didn't want to filter out infrared on my astrophotography.
3) keyboard, monitor and power for the RPI. Google it. I would recommend an HDMI monitor, but I can understand using others.
4) An old camera lens. In my case, I used an old Olympus lens. The important thing is to have the REAR lens cap. But even if you don't have that lens cap, you should be able to find one at a local camera shop for pretty cheap.
5) A trap adapter - 1.5" (see picture) this is available at the local hardware store for a buck and some change. It includes two parts. If the one you find is too expensive, get the next size down. You might have to improvise some of the assembly though.
6) An old tripod that you don't use very often (don't worry, I won't cut it up).
7) Tiny plastic screws (x4) that fit the RPI Camera and nuts to match. My electronic store had these, but they might have them at a hardware store. If you have to use metal ones, you might want to put some electrical tape around them (pretty cozy, though). During experimentation, i used insulated wire.
8) A laundry detergent cap. I picked one that the plumbing part fits inside. I think you could also use a kitty litter cap.
9) A handful of zip-ties.
Step 1: Begin Prep Work - Drill Out the Lens Cap
Step 2: Cut the Pipe
Step 3: Glue the Cap and the Pipe
Step 4: Remove the Lens From the RPI Camera. Cut the Laundry Cap Down and Drill Holes in It for the Camera. Glue the Threaded Ring to It.
Step 5: Assemble
Step 6: Fine Tune It / Start Taking Pictures!
raspivid -t 95000 -o myfilename9999.vid
I gave it a name with lots of 9's so that I could shoot over and over and the next shot, you delete one of the 9's. Most likely, the image will be upside-down and backwards. I suspect there is a parameter to reverse that out...never really looked it up. Once you get a feel, you can attach a piece of tape in a tab shape to the back and another to the middle of the lens to have a make-shift sight for aiming. You can see an attached sample picture of the moon (and a cropped version for detail) that I took. I used the following command to shoot it:
raspistill -ss 7600 -ISO 199 -o s7600iso199moon99999.jpg
The ss option tells it how long to keep the shutter open in milliseconds and the ISO is the "film speed" equivalent in the camera. A lower number is supposed to be better quality, but a higher number is better sensitivity. You can play with both of these. I went ahead and put these settings in the file name as well as the subject to basically take notes with the file name.
This is where the experimenter can go crazy. If you want to take pictures of stars, you will obviously need more milliseconds in the shutter setting. You will see the limits of the sensor on longer shots. Likewise if taking zoomed in pictures of the stars with long exposures, you will likely see the smear of the rotation of the earth. Bump up your ISO and drop your shutter to address this. Read up on the parameters of raspistill and knock yourself out. I suspect that default color balance is not what you want, but that is left to the experimenter to find out. I plan to publish another Instructable to show how to make a solar filter that will work with this or any camera, so stay tuned.