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Step 2Circuit Assembly
Once again note that I did not create this circuit diagram. It was made by Trimbitas Sori and can be found on his blog.
The only part of this diagram that may require a little explanation is the pins on the serial connector:
RS-232 Pinout :
1 = DCD (Carrier Detect)
2 = RXD (Receive Data)
3 = TXD (Transmit Data)
4 = DTR (Data Terminal Ready)
5 = GND (Ground)
6 = DSR (Data Set Ready)
7 = RTS (Request To Send)
8 = CTS (Clear To Send)
9 = RI (Ring Indicator)
As you can see from the circuit diagram, we're only using DCD (pin 1), RTS (pin 7), and GND (pin 5). I've included a second image on this page that shows the pin numbers and labels graphically, but all the 9pin D-subs I've ever worked with have been labeled (however microscopically). Note that this image came from an IRIX book, strangely enough. Just ignore the "not used" notes because we're totally going to use the DCD pin for our purposes : )
It's pretty hard to give you step by step directions on this part because our goal is to make the thing as small as possible in order to fit it in the D-sub connector. I'll give you a few pointers but it's going to be up to you to figure out how to make it fit.
Pointers:
1) Before you try to make this really small and fit into a tight space, try building the circuit on a breadboard to make sure you can do it (and have all working parts). It will make you extremely angry if you spend an hour cramming/soldering pieces into a D-sub then it doesn't work because you have a dead receiver.
2) Cut the pins on the components down very short. However, remember that you can only make them shorter so don't cut off too much until you're sure of the size you need and that you can still solder to it. OK, I lied a little bit, if you do hack off too much of a pin, you can always solder an extension pin onto it or a small piece of wire that you can run wherever you need (don't be embarrassed, we've all done it : ).
3) Don't use wire to connect the pieces unless absolutely required. Just solder the components directly to each other. I think I ended up using three pieces of wire to make connections because it was impossible to bend the components the way I needed them to fit.
4) Lastly, just solder on one component at a time, then check to make sure you can still fit everything in the D-sub.
If the circuit diagram below doesn't quite make sense to you, I'm going to try to walk you through the assembly in the next step... some people learn better by having things laid out in text and since we're not using wires I had a little trouble visualizing how everything should be hooked up directly.
The only part of this diagram that may require a little explanation is the pins on the serial connector:
RS-232 Pinout :
1 = DCD (Carrier Detect)
2 = RXD (Receive Data)
3 = TXD (Transmit Data)
4 = DTR (Data Terminal Ready)
5 = GND (Ground)
6 = DSR (Data Set Ready)
7 = RTS (Request To Send)
8 = CTS (Clear To Send)
9 = RI (Ring Indicator)
As you can see from the circuit diagram, we're only using DCD (pin 1), RTS (pin 7), and GND (pin 5). I've included a second image on this page that shows the pin numbers and labels graphically, but all the 9pin D-subs I've ever worked with have been labeled (however microscopically). Note that this image came from an IRIX book, strangely enough. Just ignore the "not used" notes because we're totally going to use the DCD pin for our purposes : )
It's pretty hard to give you step by step directions on this part because our goal is to make the thing as small as possible in order to fit it in the D-sub connector. I'll give you a few pointers but it's going to be up to you to figure out how to make it fit.
Pointers:
1) Before you try to make this really small and fit into a tight space, try building the circuit on a breadboard to make sure you can do it (and have all working parts). It will make you extremely angry if you spend an hour cramming/soldering pieces into a D-sub then it doesn't work because you have a dead receiver.
2) Cut the pins on the components down very short. However, remember that you can only make them shorter so don't cut off too much until you're sure of the size you need and that you can still solder to it. OK, I lied a little bit, if you do hack off too much of a pin, you can always solder an extension pin onto it or a small piece of wire that you can run wherever you need (don't be embarrassed, we've all done it : ).
3) Don't use wire to connect the pieces unless absolutely required. Just solder the components directly to each other. I think I ended up using three pieces of wire to make connections because it was impossible to bend the components the way I needed them to fit.
4) Lastly, just solder on one component at a time, then check to make sure you can still fit everything in the D-sub.
If the circuit diagram below doesn't quite make sense to you, I'm going to try to walk you through the assembly in the next step... some people learn better by having things laid out in text and since we're not using wires I had a little trouble visualizing how everything should be hooked up directly.
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