Radial-Arm Saw Overhaul & Modification for Low Profile Storage

This instructable is about how to overhaul/re-build a Craftsman radial arm saw.  I also included instructions for some modifications I made so that it can be stored compactly against the wall of my 1-car garage.

My father recently gave me his old radial arm saw.  It had been sitting in his garage, un-used, for at least a decade.  Despite the fact that it was rusty and wouldn't rotate, I gladly accepted because my work space is too small to use my table saw for cross-cutting lumber.

I used this manual:  http://www.owwm.com/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2498

but there are many models of Craftsman radial-arm saws, so you may have better luck looking here: http://www.owwm.com/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=3

Step 1 Remove saw from arm

The saw I have is really heavy.  It must be over 100 lb.  To avoid injury, remove the saw motor from the arm first.

The only limitation on the movement of the saw blade on the arm was a small socket-head screw.  I removed that, released the brake, removed the anchor for the coiled cord and slid the motor off the arm.

Comments

[Phil B]

I am assuming you are not the original owner of this saw. It appears your saw suffered some abuse over the years. Someone on eBay sometimes has the round rods that carry the saw motor and yoke on the arm for relatively little money. I always wondered if a person could not just make his own. They might not be hardened. Many radial arm saws use a crank on top of the column for height adjustment. Yes, they are heavy--about 180 pounds. You have a special problem with fitting the saw into a one car garage. I am glad to see you are getting use from your saw. I have one that is slightly older by a couple of years. (See Related Instructables down the right side of this Instructable.)

[neffk]

I've already seen your instructable. It was part of the inspiration for actually dragging my saw out of my father's basement.

Based on the flattening, I would say that the rods aren't hardened. I was able to flex them a bit, by hand. Also, there are holes drilled in the ends, which is not something you could easily do with hardened stock. The holes could have been drilled before heat treatment and quenching, but I don't see any deformation at all. My guess is it's cold-formed medium- or high-carbon steel, which is strong, rusts terribly, and has very tight radial tolerance.

Oddly, the problem was only on one side---I lost track of which side, but I think it has to do with how forces are distributed when the saw is under load.

[Phil B]

One of my objectives has been to get people to take another look at radial arm saws and begin to exploit their capabilities. I am glad to have been of help. My saw has a "V" groove cut into the side of the arm on both sides, just like yours; but without the round rods. Over the years I have sometimes thought I would like to replace my convex bearings with concave bearings like you have and the rods. A badly vibrating wire brush wheel even put a couple of knicks in my "V" tracks, but I found a way to restore the tracks and have not opted for the rods.

Your father's basement must have had some moisture in the air to cause the rust. It is good you were able to remove most of it.

Thanks for your response. Congratulations on its Featured status.

[woodchap]

I recently picked up an old 12" Craftsman radial saw model no. 113.23301., For some reason there was duct tape around the cylinder that supports the arm. on tear down and closer inspection I found that the back-up plug(steel part no. 63078) and the friction plug nylon (no 63077) were missing. I am able to get the nylon plug from Sears but not the steel one. Anyone know what size the steel one is so I can fabricate one? Thanks....

[Phil B]

I do not know if my 10" saw uses the same size metal fitting as your 12" saw, but, assuming it is made as on the 10" saws you should be able take dimensions from the opening in the cast iron base of the column. The round hole on the backside gives you the diameter of the metal plug insert. A raised portion on the end of the plug fits into the slot on the back of the column. There is a hole running through the length of the plug insert for the nylon plug. That hole is threaded part of the way so the nylon plug can be tensioned with a screw. The body of the metal plug has a large "V" valley. Set screws in the cast iron receiver for the metal plug work against the slopes of this "V" valley. I hope that is what you are asking.

[kelseymh]

I figured you'd notice this I'ble, Phil :-)

[pfred2]

My old RAS I fixed up:

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/631/rastable.jpg

It was a good deal for $20.

[kelseymh]

Great Instructable! Clear and well written, with some nicely original ideas (pointed out to me by Phil B, our resident RAS guru :-). Featured and rated.