Radio Controlled Camera Pod by indymogul
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Welcome to the build plans for Indy Mogul Episode 43: Radio controlled camera pod. I've always thought it would be cool to have a remote controlled camera mount that could tilt and pan. I got this idea to use remote control cars. I figured it would be EASY to convert the motion of the car's drive and steering assemblies to the precision movements of a camera controller. Boy was I wrong. First off the front steering motor did not have the gear box necessary to attach to anything useful. So now I needed 2 R/C cars instead of one. The biggest challenge then was slowing down the motors from their native rotation speed of 1,000-2,000 rpm's to just 3 or 4. The solution we FINALLY came to was 2 pronged. One was to attach a large disk to act as a flywheel, and the second was to wire in a rheostat.

Here's what you'll need for this project:

Shopping List

-2 thin wooden disks
(I literally was walking to work and a construction worker was throwing these perfect wooden disks out. They were very thin and light. Some type of balsa wood maybe. You could probably cut them out of thin plywood or heavy cardstock)
-2 cheap remote control cars
(If you have 1 or 2 of these laying around then you're set! Other wise pick up a few at K-mart or a garage sale. All you need it the forwards and reverse motor.)
-Some scrap wood
(We used what we had laying around: 15 inch. length of 1"x3", 7 inch. length 2"x4" and a plywood base roughly a 1 ft. square.)
-Insulated copper wire
(Just your standard wire we had laying around the shop.)
-Misc. mounting hardware
(Really a hodge-podge of screws, washers, nuts and bolts we had laying around. The one thing we bought was 8 "tapered faucet washers." They are big rubber washers that help secure the R/C car wheels to the wood disks.)
-2 Rheostats
(You can pick this babies up at Radio Shack and use them like dimmer switches for the R/C motors.)

For the complete video, watch below!

 
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Step 1: Prepping the Cars

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As I mentioned before all we are using is the back wheels that control forward and reverse. So we can remove everything but the rear motor and wheels, circuitry and battery pack. This means you can get rid of the car body, front wheels and motors and anything else that is getting in your way. I basically removed the top piece that makes it look like a car. Disconnected the wires going to the front motor. Then remove the front motor and wheels. Lastly I took my rotary tool and cut away any excess plastic from the remaining frame. Leaving a nice and neat, ready to mount, package consisting of the rear wheels, motor and gearbox, the circuitry and battery pack. All attached to the rear half of the frame. Repeat this on the second car (Car B) but detach the gearbox and wheel assembly if you can. The only thing that should connect this to the rest of the car is the 2 wires going to the circuitry from the motor. Our second car had the wheel assembly in a handy little box that popped right out of the frame.
shodder3 says: May 5, 2010. 8:58 PM
Pre-drill that hole and you wont stab yourself in the finger next time! Awesome flick though. I'm trying to think of ways to use this cool trick!
DJglass says: Mar 27, 2008. 5:00 PM
Great idea but sounds like a bit rushed. So the steering rack of an RC car wouldn't work... Did you try connecting the drive motor from car b to the steering output of car A's control circuit? You would only need one controller then. Other sources of motor I've thought of are a stepper motor from an old printer or something with a belt drive on it. This may require a stepper controller which may be another $20 or so. Perhaps a motor from an old cordless drill or power screwdriver, perhaps an old tape player? The advantage of those is that they stop when you take the power off, unlike RC car wheels that tend to take a while to slow down. You also won't need the huge flywheels. I know it is easiest to use what is handy to you though. Nice one!
axxis says: Oct 7, 2009. 8:32 PM
The steering depends on the car. Cheapest cars don't even have steering-- the dreaded "turns in reverse". Cheaper cars use little more than a solenoid with the components not lending well to modification. A lot of low-cost cars do have a nice steering-motor though, and some even have hobby-grade looking servos. I suppose an actual motor could be added to the leads of a "solenoid" car.
axxis says: Oct 7, 2009. 8:52 PM
Possibly the gearbox from the second car could just be connected to the steering output from the first. That gets you back to one controller and you don't have to worry about splitting frequencies, which is probably a major issue with sourcing cheap components for this build.

I'm thinking the wooden discs are a visual aid for aiming the camera? I would think the size of them would lend well to just driving them directly with the car tires. Component failures and design changes would be easier without having to disassemble the whole thing or redesign for "sourced" components. If both tires are driving the wooden discs, you don't have to jimmy the rearend on a car with actual differential, either.

Also, I wouldn't overlook simple remote-control cars if you can still find them. The lack of radio control makes the system impervious to interferance and glitches. For that matter, you can try to run a wire direct from transmitter to receiver if the system is squirrelly. Wire-guided missles are really radio control-- with the antenna so long it reaches back to the controller.
Davetech says: Aug 30, 2009. 11:44 AM
I would have simply had the front steering rack actuate a pair of micro-switches. one switch for Right and the other for Left (or up and down). Discarded VCR's are big electro-mechanical grab-bags just waiting to be harvested. Motors, gears, belts, switches, all kinds of goodies in there, perfect for projects like this. Here's a linear actuator I made from VCR parts.
linear actuator 1.jpglinear actuator 2.jpg
watermelonhead says: Jul 10, 2009. 4:23 PM
lol! Those kids in the vid are hilarious!
amishjim says: Dec 13, 2008. 8:10 AM
Great CHEAP and EASY 'structable
bigboy_of_manila says: Aug 5, 2008. 8:16 PM
Nice film, u guys shoot like a pro. but d guy punched u on ur left face. ur blood runs on ur ryt lip.... is it possible?? LOL
amishjim says: Dec 13, 2008. 8:09 AM
Continuity costs extra :D
finnster says: Apr 13, 2008. 6:14 AM
too big for what i need it for
Quiksilver2693 says: Apr 5, 2008. 8:20 PM
Is a rheostat just a fancy potentiometer?
DJglass says: Mar 27, 2008. 5:04 PM
Also, the cheap RC ready made cars are in a different league from the true Hobby cars. The controllers are pretty much "digital" meaning on or off. You really want the expensive hobby type of controllers and receivers which are progressive so you can control the speed much easier. Ebay could yield cheap older ones though.
alexanderm says: Mar 24, 2008. 11:31 PM
Interesting idea... Those motors are cheap to purchase from hobby stores (or online) and are available in a wide variety of RPM/torque combinations. The flywheels are ugly... sorry... they are. Are you saying that the potentiometer alone wasn't adequate to drop the voltage to a usable point? Perhaps a different potentiometer would work better... or a simple gear reduction (which would increase the torque available, but limit top speed). And, if a flywheel is still what makes you giddy, try cutting vanes into the edge, in alternating directions, to increase air drag/resistance, and allowing to to significantly reduce the size/weight. Another alternative to the large lightweight flywheel would be a smaller, heavier one (particularly one with weight on the outer rim)... they'd all work equally well, or better. Thanks for sharing your creativity!
joey2542667 says: Mar 15, 2008. 9:40 AM
He he , I should use those steriods on my next hippo tournament!
PKM says: Mar 5, 2008. 5:53 AM
You could borrow a technique from the wall-of-death fairground ride to slow down the rotation of the disk- add some sort of high-friction edging to the wooden disk and arrange the wheel so that it rubs against it- this way you are effectively gearing it down by the ratio of the wheel diameter (yours looks about 5cm) to the diameter of the wooden disk (about 30cm). This should give you: - better torque - slower rotation - better controllability - a "clutch"- if the disk sticks, the wheel will slip rather than burn out the motor - the ability to mount the disk on a sturdier bearing to reduce wobble (I mention the wall-of-death because I was a little disturbed to find the one I saw was driven by a diesel generator engine running a car wheel pressed against the outside rim of the ride- it's ok for a DIY camera mount but not something I'd entrust 40-odd lives to)
reeding says: Mar 3, 2008. 11:51 PM
hippo steroids? wtf?
Jonny Katana says: Mar 3, 2008. 11:19 PM
Nice Ible. That was a legit video too, very Guy Ritchie.
i make shooting things says: Mar 3, 2008. 4:35 PM
You might be able to find some continuous servo motors (that arn't limited to spinning 180 Degrease) for 5-10$ at radio shack. I already have some from my Vex kit.
GorillazMiko says: Mar 3, 2008. 3:01 PM
Nice job. The pictures look like they were taken from a video, but nice job anyways, it looks fun to try out for many people!
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