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The rain gutter cleaner described in this ible was wholly inspired by knorseth's ible found here.

Step 1: Nozzle Assembly

Parts:

The following parts are in order of assembly

  • 3/4" PVC cap with a hole drilled through the tip
  • short piece of 3/4" PVC pipe
  • 3/4" 90 degree coupling
  • another short piece of 3/4" PVC pipe
  • 3/4" angled coupling
  • 8' stick of 3/4" PVC pipe.

Step 2: Glue It Altogether

Glue the nozzle assembly together and then glue it to the 8' stick of 3/4" PVC.

Step 3: Completed Nozzle Assembly

Step 4: Valve Assembly

Parts:

The following parts are in order of assembly



• 8' stick of 3/4" PVC pipe with the completed nozzle end
• 3/4" PVC ball valve
• short piece of 3/4" PVC pipe
• 3/4" PVC female slip to female threaded and a hose adapter



Glue the valve assembly together and then glue it to the other end of your 8' stick of 3/4" PVC.

Step 5: Completed Valve Assembly

This completes the project. Now, screw the entire assembly on to a hose.

Step 6: Completed Project

Step 7: Video Demonstration and How-to

I own a gutter cleaning service. This is ingenious. Its awesome. Im going to try it.
that is AWESOME. it would also work as a shower.
<p>Rats! We can't do that in California. There's a drought. I know. Crazy. You can even get fined up to $500 for it.</p>
<p>So build one for your shop vac and suck the junk up instead of blowing all the junk all over your yard with water.</p>
<p>@skiwolf9, whoa, I love that idea!</p>
<p>What about if you use some flexible hose and attach it to your kitchen tap? In the UK we get 'the hosepipe ban'. Alternatively what about a water butt and attach a water pump? If no water butt, how about filling up the bath and use a water pump? What about a ladder, some gloves, brush, a sponge and a bucket? Ah...</p>
<p>Rain collector barrel + pump + pvc rain cutter cleaner?</p>
<p>Hmmmmmmm......maybe you could use air instead of water. Alter the design so that it could connect to an air compressor....</p>
<p>Nice improvement on my original design.</p><p>Something you might want to try is to have the end of the cleaner by swappable by using a threaded connector at the end.. Then you could swap out the tips for different flow types. When I built mine, I needed a lot of water pressure to clean out my gutters. Also, when cleaning out downspouts, you might need more power as well.</p><p>Another tweak that my neighbor did to the my design was to use PVC lock couplings in the middle and was able to extent his to do a second story house. It was a little shaky, but it did work. This would work on yours as well.</p>
Thanks! I originally attempted this project with 1/2&quot; PVC. I couldn't control it. <br><br>Now, I'm thinking about making a version that segments from a sturdier width of PVC down to a smaller width. Say, 1 1/4&quot; to a 3/4&quot; so that it's more manageable. I don't know, that might adversely effect the water pressure.
I did mine in 3/4&quot; PVC. At one story, it was just fine. On the two story, it was hard to maintain, but it did work. The tip of the cleaner I used a 3/4 to 1/2 threaded L and the tip was a sprinkler head riser. If you did the end as a 3/4&quot; threaded tip, you could try all sorts of attachments and see what works best.
<p>Great instructable! I would put a quick-connect on the end of it. The quick-connect thingys are a real time saver as well as easy! I don't like &quot;screwing around&quot; when I have yard and home maintenance to do. ;-) Well done.</p>
That idea has been mentioned several times now by commentors. It's a great idea! Do you have a link or a picture of what you had in mind?
<p>pretty cool, my gutters may get cleaned out this year.</p>
If you shortened the whole thing about a foot or two it would be easier to control and not flex as much. Looks like you are having to fight it too much. Also wjat about go8ng with the idea of interchanagable nozzels? A few that have different sized holes drilled in them and a few others that are slotted for a fan spray. Make those by using a dremel with a cutoff wheel to slowly cut into the cap until you get the desired fan spray and pressure. Also might be useful to make a short wand to use to clean your car and use 1/2&quot; pvc for that one.
Good ideas! I like the idea of interchangeable parts, especially. Shortening it a bit would help too. Thanks!
<p>What size hole do you recommend. Would two or three small holes work well to make a fan shaped spray work better? Nice and affordable project. Thanks.</p>
For a fan you could use a dremel with a cutting wheel and slowly cut a slit in the end. Start small and modify as needed until you get the desired pressure you want.
<p>You're welcome! I think I used 1/4&quot; or 3/8&quot; for the hole. I wanted a forced jet. The more holes you add the less pressure you'll have.</p>
<p>Thank you for this easy fix to cleaning gutters. It has always been such a painful task to begin and ends up a job half done. Your idea is a good fix. I have it bookmarked for easy access.</p>
<p>Thank you for this easy fix to cleaning gutters. It has always been such a painful task to begin and ends up a job half done. Your idea is a good fix. I have it bookmarked for easy access.</p>
<p>Could combine air pressure with water pressure as we've used this combo at a Mfg. plant I worked at and it did a good job of cleaning. Plus you get increased pressure with the compressed air. </p>
<p>enter this in the home hacks contest! <a href="https://www.instructables.com/contest/homehacks/">www.instructables.com/contest/homehacks/</a></p>
<p>Done! Thanks for the tip. I hadn't even considered entering this project. </p>
<p>I like this idea, as I hate ladders. I saw this in action on YouTube a while ago by yet another creator, what I would be worried about is if the water is directed straight down into the gutter, is there not the risk that it is going to splash back up into the roof ? especially as you can't see where you are directing the water!</p>
Good point. I used a 90 and an angled coupling to get the angle I needed for my particular use. I suggest you toy with the design so that it works best for you. Thanks for making that point.
<p>I hope this is not a duplicate--I made this comment earlier, but it hasn't shown up yet--are these comments moderated?</p><p>I am not the OP, but I'll respond anyway--I<br> would say, yes, you could get water up &quot;into&quot; the roof (or, I would <br>say, somewhat under the shingles), but I don't see that as a major <br>problem (unless your water pressure is so high as to be able to damage <br>the shingles). Some of my reasoning:</p><p> * Most modern shingle <br>roofs (in our area) have at least a 30 to 36&quot; wide layer of a product <br>named something like Weatherguard (or equal) under the bottom row of <br>shingles. This is sort of like an upgraded tar paper, usually made of <br>rubber and with an adhesive (iiuc, heat activated) on the bottom. It is <br>intended to avoid leaks due to ice dams (which, in general, cause water <br>to lay on the roof and possibly back up under the shingles). I don't <br>remember exactly, but when I replaced my roof (myself ;-) I put two or <br>three strips (widthwise) of this material under my shingles, so even if <br>ice dams backed the water up 5 feet or more, I shouldn't have any leaks.<br> (Also, in an area of my lower roof, where the gutters from my upper <br>roof dump water on the lower roof (a bad design, but I haven't <br>rearranged the gutters yet), I have Weatherguard under those shingles.)</p><p><br> * I would do any gutter flushing either on a sunny day or knowing <br>that we would still have sunny warm days, so, even if I didn't have <br>material like that on the roof, the (minimal) water that might get under<br> the shingles would dry out over the next few days.</p>
<p>very, very, cool idea. beats moving a ladder around all the time</p>
<p>This showed up at the perfect time. I just started looking for this project.</p>
Well done!
Thank you, Pastor.
<p>I want one of these! Does having a hole in the end replace knorseth's (what looks like a black) flexible piece on the end to direct the water? </p>
<p>Yes it does replace the flexible end that he used in his. Mine was just variation on his.</p>

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