Ramps for a Low Car

My car is too low for steel auto ramps.  The cowling under the bumper touches the ramps before the wheels do.  I made my own ramps from 2 x 8 lumber.

Step 1 Determine the dimensions

I needed to know the angle of the ramps' incline and the length of the incline.  I used a block and a piece of 1 x 6 lumber.  The 1 x 6 clears the cowling under the front bumper with a little to spare.  My old ramps were 8 1/4 inches high where the wheel rested.  I would like to duplicate that on these ramps.  The base of the incline needs to be about 30 inches long (yellow tape measure).

Comments

[static]

Not beyond the realm of possibility to duplicate in these ramp the "dip" at the top of the retail steel ramps. In regards to switches I think an light beam switch would be %1000 better than any mechanical switch. Whatever sort of switch I'd use, I'd consider using an audible alarm. I was predicting to myself that Philbie was going to use the arm power saw to connect the cuts made with the skil saw, but he drags out this electric chainsaw instead. I'm taking my crystal ball back for refund. Good project, and instructable Phil.

[dejure]

On a stop block, I don't trust myself, even though I've never driven off the end of a set of ramps. So I do install stop blocks. Mine mount on top and are glued and screwed in place. I could have just run a 2x up the back and with glue and deck screws it would be pretty strong, but it will never be as strong as a piece laid on the top and secured with glue.


By the way, thanks for sharing

[dejure]

I was just getting ready to make a set of ramps because the ones I have will not support my six ton Grumman, or my neighbor's Dodge Ram Crew Cab. At the same time, my little Honda's air foil probably doesn't much care for the step angle of the existing ramps.

To reduce weight on my version, which would appear to be the image of yours, I drilled holes in the center pieces. The size of the holes significantly reduced weight without compromising strength.

To address the height issue for the Honda, I merely add another board in front, which has a bevel cut to match the ramp and one which rests on the ramp bevel cut.

It doesn't take much to tie the "small ramp" to the big one. You can drill holes in the large ramp for pins (installed on the little ramp) to go through that can be locked in place by slipping a nail through holes drilled in the pins. You can use Velcro or some other imaginative means, like eye hooks on the sides and small bungie cords, and so forth.

[l8nite]

Ive made a couple sets of ramps over the years, mainly because Im 2 cheap to pay for the metal ones and building sites have plenty of useful material. While I like your light idea I would still like a block across the front.

 This is a well thought out and executed 'ible", use them in safety

[Phil B]

Thank you.  I have seen some steel ramps that were only stamped  with no bracing.  I would be nervous using those.  The wooden version here is solid and will not collapse.  I may well modify my ramps to include a block across the front.

[2 stroke]

oh oh ithe oned i have dont have bracing better go tot he scrap yard and grt some square stock and get welding i guess i can build these but i completely suck at woodworklol

[zebratangozebra]

Instead of a light maybe a sound alert ?

[NachoMahma]

.  You come up with some of the most useful projects! The position switch/light would be invaluable when working alone.

[Phil B]

Thank you.  I am thinking about ways to modify it so I can adjust it for the best response and to make a fail-safe protector of some kind in case the light failed due to a broken wire, burned out bulb, or a failed switch.  I do not think anyone has ever been with me when I was putting a car up on ramps.  I expect it is the same for you.

[NachoMahma]

.  Use a Normally-Closed switch. The light is on (and verified) until you reach the proper position. Just don't leave it plugged in. ;)
.  Probably be a good idea to install a stop at the end of the ramp. It won't prevent from driving off the end if you want to, but should provide enough resistance to let you know you are at the end (if you are paying attention). Or does the switch stick up far enough to handle that job?

[Phil B]

I just fine tuned my switch cage assembly a little by grinding a 4 or 5 light passes with a stone in a Dremel tool across the top of "D" in step 9.  The switch is more responsive now and I can stop the car in just the right place very easily.  Now I need an excuse to crawl under my car! ;-)

[NachoMahma]

.  Great!
.  I think you need to install some EL wire under your car. :)

[Phil B]

Thank you....(uh)....I think. ;-)

[Phil B]

A normally-closed switch is a good idea.  The switch would not provide enough physical strength to stop the car from rolling too far, unless it were made from "I" beams.  ;-)  A normally-closed switch and circuit could be powered down easily if supplied by a converter in the cigarette lighter, like I used here.  I mentioned adding a vertical piece of 2 inch stock at the end of the ramps.  I angled the cut end upwards a little, but have not tested it yet. 

Thanks for the comment.

[NachoMahma]

.  I didn't mean a stop actually tall and stout enough to prevent you from running off the end, just a hump to provide a little extra resistance. Which some 2" pieces would do very well - I just didn't fully understand what you meant at the end of step 12. ;)
.
.  Since you seem to be open to suggestions, I'd mount a "Microswitch^TM" or some other type of limit switch on the side of the ramp and use a welding rod or equiv to sense the tire. Should be able to mount that to the side of the ramp with screws and avoid any welding (and it doesn't have to be so rugged).

[Phil B]

Good ideas.  I am thinking of using two systems simultaneously for judging when to stop.  One would be the switch and light.  The other would be measuring from the center of the front left wheel to the door handle, then transferring this measurement to a marker by means of a thin pole or a mark on the wall.  As I mentioned, there is also a different feel when the wheel comes up on the flattened top of the ramp.

One idea I had, but have not tried, involves a light framework that hooks over the open crack between the fender and the engine hood.  It would also attach to the fender with old speaker magnets.  It would be like a lateral pyramid with an adjustable mirror at the point on the pyramid.  The idea would be to view the tire position in the mirror while driving up the ramps.  The mirror would have to be "big enough."

[NachoMahma]

.  I like the mark on the wall idea, but using a pole would just give me something else to lose. heehee
.
.  The mirror idea sounds like it would work very well, but it also sounds like something where the alignment would have to be tweaked every time you used it. Not easy for one person to do.
.
.  IMNSHO, unless you plan on selling this to the general public, the switch/light is enough, especially if you go with a "fail-safe" arrangement as per previous comment. YMMV

[Phil B]

We have moved several times during our married life.  Several times I have lost fixtures, jigs, and tools.  I know what you mean. 

In regard to the general public, H L Mencken said, "No one ever went broke underestimating the intelligence of the American public."

[rimar2000]

This is a very useful implement. I once improvised something like this using planks and bricks, and always thought of making one "definitive". I especially liked the idea of stop indicator.

[Phil B]

The steel ramps I had sometimes slipped on the driveway or garage floor so that the car only pushed them and did not climb up the ramps.  These wooden ramps do not slip.  I had been thinking about a stop indicator for many years.  I think I could make a better switch than the one I used and may try that, too.  It would be more difficult, but a switch that activated when a beam of light was broken by the tire would be very good.