Many computer video games involve a lot of rapid mouse clicking. But there are limits to how fast your finger can click and how long you can keep it up before your hand starts to ache. So I modified a mouse to add a rapid fire button to it. That way you can rapidly activate the clicking function by simply holding down one button.

To do this, I connected a 555 timer circuit to the terminals of the left mouse button. When the rapid fire button is pressed, the timer circuit sends a series of pulses to the controller that simulate the button being clicked. This circuit lets you click up to 800 times per minute. A similar circuit could even be used for console video game controllers.

Step 1: Materials

Here are the materials and tools that you will need for this project.

555 Timer IC
10 µF Capacitor
4.7 kohm Resistor
Jumper Wires
PC Board
Small Momentary Switch (not pictured)
Heat Shrink Tubing (optional)

Soldering Iron
Wire Strippers
Rotary Cutting Tool (optional)
Multimeter (optional)
Would this work with a wireless mouse setup using just 1 AA battery?
<p>No, not without an addition battery. The 555 time IC needs at least 3.7 volts to operate.</p>
How to make for up of 1500 clicks for minute?
<p>Mouse</p><p>555 Timer IC<br>10 &micro;F Capacitor -------------- &iquest;how much is in Voltio?<br>4.7 kohm Resistor<br>Diode ------------------ &iquest;what diode is [number, model]?<br>Jumper Wires<br>PC Board<br>Small Momentary Switch (not pictured)<br>Heat Shrink Tubing (optional)</p>
<p>The voltage of the capacitor can be anything over 5V. The diode can be any rectifier diode.</p>
<p>I have been playing video games since pong came out for the TV.</p><p>I am finding that as I get older, while I still enjoy playing games, I am getting much slower with clicking.</p><p>So this will come in super handy for sure :)</p><p>Thanks for this :)</p>
<p>I have carpel tunnel and am 71 years old and a looney tank gamer. Sdaly I am home bound so I would love something like this and althougfh I can solder and have the eqiupment here I can no longer solder. Would this help me with speeding up my tank fire, and can I buy something like this on line please? The youngsters are always beating me to the shot :-)</p>
To be honest, the easiest thing to do is to just buy a mouse with programmable buttons. They sell mice that have a lot of extra buttons and they let you set the output functions.
Dude can you just make me one that will fit easily on a g400 mouse? I'll pay you!!!
<p>I could. But with the labor, materials and shipping cost it would honestly be cheaper to just buy a mouse that lets you program functions on the buttons. </p>
What kind of mice are there for that? I found one called the wolfking trooper mvp mouse but I can't buy it anywhere they went out of business. I can't find any other mouse that will let me with one click click 3-4 times on its own. You know of any? Thanks for replying so fast to a post that started a long time ago;)
<p>hi i was wondering if you could make a more detailed (easier for noobs like me to make) step by step tutorial. i was a little confused about certain steps</p>
<p>Which step was confusing</p>
<p>I apologize for the late response I was having problems with my internet. what does the red wire coming off of the capacitors negative leg do on the circuit? again I'm not that good with understanding the circuit's diagram.</p>
<p>That wire does nothing in the finished setup. It should have been removed. I just forgot to. If you would like a simple guide for reading circuit diagrams you can check out this instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/HOW-TO-READ-CIRCUIT-DIAGRAMS/</p>
<p>thanks! I think I got it now! thank you for helping me out (also sorry for all the late replies, I don't have my own PC) I kinda got confused and forgot to realize that I was connecting things the wrong way. </p>
NE555N NE555 NE555P can these be a substitute for 555 timer ic
Yes. Those will work as well. Pretty much any variation of the 555 timer IC
Well the LED couldn't handle 9v
3V is usually the limit.
I just checked and the voltage was backwards... But now at 50K and 1uF it looks constant with an LED
I used a 0-50k variable resistor and a 1uf capacitor and I tested it with a LED and did nothing
<p>Would it be ok to solder the +V to the 5v side of the Left mouse bytton</p>
<p>I think that should work</p>
<p>Is that an electrolytic capacitor or a ceramic one? or will either work?</p>
<p>I doesn't matter.</p>
<p>Could you list where we could get parts to make this because I cant seem to find those parts.</p>
<p>They should all be available at RadioShack if you have one near where you live. Or you can buy them at Mouser.com. Other locations that could work are Fry's Electronics or Digikey.</p>
<p>What kind of Diode do I need or is it any kind? </p>
Any kind will work
<p>Good for Cookie Clicker too!</p>
<p>how can i buy 1 from you </p>
I am sorry, but I don't have time to do commission work. If you look online, you might be able to find a mouse that does something similar. Or you can download a program to do it for you.
<p>Hi! I made the rapid clicker, but it doesn't seem to be working<br>When I click the button, It clicks once, instead of rapidly clicking.<br>Any idea why?<br></p>
First test that the circuit is working with an LED. It may also be a problem with the click rate. Computers can only register click up to a certain speed. So you may try changing the resistor to drop the click rate.
<p>Mindblowing </p>
<p>i can do 385 per minute without mods but awesome idea</p>
<p>I can click 684 times Minutes without Modded Hardware, thank you very much... :P</p>
does any 555 work? or is there a specific 555 (ex. NE555P) that only works for it?
I think that any 555 timer should work.
oh.ok. thanks.
<p>I made one myself. The had a couple problems that almost stumped me until I got out my oscilloscope.</p><p>First, mice run on a carrier signal on a signal bus of some sort. The buttons do different things, the left will short the bus to the full 5V source. The right shorts the bus to 0V. The middle button, if any (sometimes the scroll wheel is also a button), attenuates the buss signal by about half. The bus signal has it's own frequency and shape. The frequency I was shooting for was apparently too high and registered as the button being held down steady.</p><p>Second, the low period was triggering a right click on the bus, making it a rapid right clicker. I tried blocking that with a diode on the output but it didn't work. It turned out the high output of the IC being only 2/3 of the 5V needed to trigger a left click on the click bus wasn't high enough and the diode's turn on voltage made matters worse. Using the high signal to trigger an NPN transistor between 5v and the bus didn't work, also <br>because the high output wasn't high enough to get full turn-on. </p><p>So to fix this I used a PNP transistor as a switch inverting the low out signals to allow the full 5V to be seen on the click bus. Works great now. I even added a switch to choose between two different capacitors to allow two different click speeds the higher being roughly 2X the lower speed. I tried 10X, but too high a frequency ended up registering as a button held down even if I fiddled with the duty cycle.</p><p>The biggest lesson I learned from this project is that the low side of the 555 output is the stronger and more duty cycle flexible part of it's output. If you need a signal at full Vcc or a duty cycle less than 51%, inverting the output with a PNP is your solution.</p>
Good job at trouble shooting.
<p>Cool! But, isn't this sort of like cheating? haha. I never thought of this.</p>
<p>Also many moons ago in the 8-bit/early 16 bit world of computing, one of my joys was to hack into a game's code an make the player invincible/give myself infinite lives etc. (Oh the joy of running through the robots the first time on Impossible Mission!).</p><p>Finally found the pic of the magazine online that has the article.</p><p>When asked if I thought I was cheating, my reply was a question, &quot;how can I be cheating since its more difficult to figure out how to hack the code than to simply sit there and play the game until I win?&quot; :^)</p><p>Same thing with this concept of a rapid fire peripheral... coming up with the idea/solution and then designing it is more difficult (for most) than simply playing the game. So at least the *designer* has taken a more difficult road to achieve the goal of beating the game ;^)</p>
<p>No. no more than someone playing with a wider fov or 16.10 compared to someone playing on a 4.3 monitor or someone using a mechanical keyboard or a higher dpi gaming mouse etc</p>
<p>How is a mechanical keyboard an advantage? I can understand when typing, but the higher actuation point on most makes rapid presses more difficult. Also, a side note about monitors, some game engines actually clip the top and bottom instead of expanding the sides.</p>
<p>For mechanical keyboards, it is more effective because in computer gaming, such as Minecraft (or maybe WoW as well, idk the control scheme) keyboard controls movement, so you wouldn't be rapid-firing with the keyboard buttons, you would rapid fire with the mouse.</p>
<p>It was given as an example as mechanical keyboard is better than a membrane keyboard - n key rollover for 1. faster response times etc As for your screen size statement &quot;some&quot;. nuff said. The point I was making is there are advantages in the equipment you use and a macro is not considered cheating else there would be checks for such via vac or any other cheat engine which there is not.</p><p>The discussion has been brought up by many on games forums and devs have never once chimed in and said &quot;no&quot;.</p><p>I &amp; many others used a macro in APB Reloaded, we even sent the macro to the publishers/devs (G1) who said nothing (fore or against) so we continued to use it in game (until I got a proper gaming mouse that had the feature in built.)</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: My name is Jason Poel Smith I am a Community Manager here at Instructables. In my free time, I am an Inventor, Maker, Hacker, Tinker ... More »
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