Step 1: Starting the Build
Step 2: Cutting Parts
From the CAD models, I was able to cut out the exact frame so that everything slides together and locks. I was also able to cut the top out of very thin ABS plastic sheet, which will give the 'rounded square' look once the LEDs are installed and lit up.
The reason for using black plastic is to try to keep this project as light as possible, while at the same time not allowing any light to go between boxes.
Step 3: Fitting the floor
Step 4: Getting LEDs ready
Step 5: Installing the LEDs
The have to be wired all in series, so each row has to follow the row before it, and the 'flow' has to be correct, else you'll not be able to light up some of the LEDs. The way these LEDs work is by sending them a serial string of data, the first LED takes it's data off the top, and then sends the rest of the packet down the line, basically bit shifting the data stream. You can't individually address the LEDs, but knowing where they are in the data stream, you can change their data in the stream itself.
Step 6: Adding the Frame
You can see how the slots in the rails we cut out are perfect for running the wires between the boxes.
Step 7: LED Color Check and Testing
For driving the LEDs, we're using a simple Arduino by outputting data out of the SPI channel. Most of what you see is just random algorithms to make sure the colors are in working order and all of the pixels are working.
The top piece is white translucent plastic, works as a great diffuse panel as one is needed!
Step 8: Gathering More Materials
We picked up all of the aluminum (1x1x1/8" wall) tubing, and cut it up to the sizes that we needed for the frames. While doing this we also picked up all of the pneumatic components which I'll get into later in the build and explain WHY we need air cylinders on this project :)
Step 9: Frame Building
The next few steps will show the construction of these aluminum frames.
The original idea was to have all of the aluminum to be welded, but running out of time it was decided to use L brackets to bolt everything together. This seemed to be extremely strong and held together very well!
Step 10: Getting frames to fit...
Once all of the frames were built, it was time to get the two main frames sliding together, so the linear rails (drawer slides) and the pneumatics started going together.
In the video you can see how hard it is to control the air, I am using a standard blow nozzle and just shooting air into the input to make sure the frames will move and not be locked together. In the final version, I fixed the flow by adding in a flow restrictor on the solenoid input, make going up and down very smooth.
Step 11: Mounting Components
(2) Drive motors with 10" Wheels (From Electric Wheel chair)
Custom 10" Subwoofer Box
Amplifier for Subwoofer
Car Radio for powering mids/highs and taking computer input
(2) 12v 35Ah SLA Batteries
Air buffer tank
Electronics (Solenoid, drive speed controllers, Arduino, power switch, etc)
Now if you remember, the Main Stage frame was 28 x 44.5 inches, this means that the drive train frame was smaller, around 25x42" where all of this stuff has to fit. What are we waiting for?! Lets get to it!
We start installing by necessity. Obviously we need to drive around, so the motors and wheels get mounted first! Next is the batteries (can't forget those)..and then the next biggest item which was the subwoofer.
Step 12: More Mounting...
With the onboard computer, we're running Windows XP and custom software along side of RoboRealm, which is a high customizable robotic software. I came across a 10" vga LCD and decided it wouldn't be a bad idea to slap it onboard too just incase debugging was needed in the field.
The computer itself is a Zotac Mini ITX in a custom case with 2Gb Ram, and 32Gb Solid State hard drive.
Compressor was picked up from Harbor Freight, just one of the small simple compressors that you keep in your car incase of a flat, plugs into the lighter.
We decided to use Victor 884 motor speed controls, these deliver plenty of amperage for the wheel chair motors at 12v.
Step 13: Pole Mounting
The pole is mounted to the Stage Frame at the top and bottom for added stability.
Step 14: Finishing the Electronics...
We also mounted the WiFi router which allows us to access the onboard PC by just a simple HTTP server. This allows any cell phone with a browser to go to the Rave Rover webpage being served, and change music, the LED modes, and in the future more stuff!
For Audio control, we feed the Audio line out into the AUX line in on the Car Radio. Using the Car Radio saved a lot of time as it has a built in 4 channel amplifier which was perfect for mounting the four external speakers.
Step 15: Drive Test!
Step 16: Installing Floor
The floor fit perfect, and just using some simple self tapping screws, it was a super fast job of attaching it to the aluminum frames.
Hinges were mounted on either wing to allow that section to fold up to retain the size of being able to go through a standard 30" door.
Step 17: Final touches
Gotta make it pretty!
It was time to cut some side panels, and install the speakers. For the front and rear panels, we wanted to make sure everyone knew 'Rave Rover' when they saw it.
We took some acrylic mirror as a backer, installed some stand off rails, and a front clear piece of acrylic with a vinyl decal with the Rave Rover logo cut out. Trying to find a diffuser element was tough, but tissue paper worked perfectly for us. The inside of this box was lined with green LED strips so that when power was on, the logos lit up bright!
Step 18: Speaker Install
Step 19: Finally Done!
First party is Dragon*Con 2011, the next step will show you some pictures that we got from the event! For now, check out the modes of Rave Rover below.
Yes, the audio IS coming from the rover itself....
Step 20: Where to find parts...
www.ebay.com -> Sourced Wheel Chair Motors
www.surpluscenter.com -> Sourced Air Cylinders, Pressure Swtich
www.arduino.cc -> Best source for Arduino References
www.robotmarketplace.com -> Anything Robotic!
www.hobbyking.com -> Sensors, Radio Control Gear and More
www.towerhobbies.com -> Radio Control Gear
www.pololu.com -> Sensors
www.sparkfun.com -> Arduino!
www.tigerdirect.com -> Sourced Onboard Zotac Mini ITX Motherboard and Harddrive
www.interstatebatteries.com -> Sourced Two 12v 35Ah SLA Batteries
www.mscdirect.com -> Sourced Air line, bolts, nuts, and other small hardware
www.harborfreight.com -> Sourced 12v Air Compressor!
I'll add more as I remember them!
Step 21: Party Time!
You may notice some of our friends in the background...Yep, that's Bar2D2 and Marc DeVidts, be sure to check out their webpages too!
We hope you enjoyed our instructable! This project was a lot of fun to do, and we can't wait for the next event.