However, I found myself wanting something more, so I put SuperBright LEDs in the front and back of the deck to light up in front of and behind me. The final product turned out better than I had imagined!
Step 1: Materials 1
- 3-4 ft. Standard size EL wire in the color of your choice*
- EL wire inverter/driver**
- Hot glue for attaching EL wire
- Velcro for attaching driver to scooter
- Hot glue gun
- Electric drill with assorted bit sizes (not shown)
- Soldering iron (not shown)
*I bought my EL wire from CoolNeon. I got their "High Bright Long Life" in 2.5mm diameter in blue. It lights up the ground quite well and is very eye-catching.
**My driver is the "1 AA Driver." I powers up to 5 feet of EL wire; the Razor happens to use exactly 3 feet of wire. I bought 4 feet for good measure. All of CoolNeon's drivers come with Plug and Play connectors (male and female), copper tape, heat shrink tubing, and instructions for soldering.
Step 2: Materials 2
- 6x 5mm High power non-diffused LEDs
- Small perforated circuit board
- 2x 9 volt batteries
- 2x 9 volt battery clips
- Small diameter single- or multi-stranded wire
- Resistor/Potentiometer for LEDs
- Electric drill
- Soldering iron
- Wire cutters
- Hot glue gun
- Alan/Hex wrenches
Step 3: Underglow 1
1. Strip the PVC coating off the EL wire at about 3/4 in, preserving the thin corona wires.
2. Wrap a small portion of copper tape around the edge of the PVC coating.
3. Bend the corona wires back onto the copper tape and solder them on.
4. On the central copper wire, scrape the phosphor coating off as much as possible.
5. slide a small length of heat shrink tubing over the end of the wire.
6. Cut one of the wires of the Plug and Play connector shorter than the other, so they do not bend after being soldered to the contacts on the EL wire.
7. Solder each of the wires onto the contacts of the EL wire (copper tape and copper wire).
8. Slide heat shrink tubing back up and shrink it over the connection.
Once you're done soldering, plug the EL wire into the inverter and turn it on. If you soldered correctly, the EL wire should light up. If it doesn't, first put your ear up to the inverter. If you cannot hear a whining sound, it's a problem with the driver, not the wire. CAUTION: Never turn the inverter on when the EL wire is not attached. This will ruin it very quickly!
Step 4: Underglow 2
When I began gluing, I started with the heat shrunk end of the wire because I didn't want extra wire hanging off onto the ground (you can trim the normal side of the wire, but not the side with the connector). Using the hot glue gun, apply a generous amount of glue over the top and underneath the EL wire. Push it into the corner between the aluminum deck and the rectangular tube. Put the glue at the edge of the bare wire, right before the heat shrink tubing. Continue down the length of the razor. When you get to the front, thread the wire up through the hole, over to the other side, and back down through the other. Then continue gluing to the back again on the other side. You are basically making a U-turn with the EL wire. Back to front, then back again. When you come near the end in the back next to the brake, put a final big glob of glue to hold it securely, and snip the excess wire. I used hot glue for the EL wire because it holds well, but if needed, it can easily be yanked off of the Razor.
Step 5: Underglow 3
Step 6: LEDs 1
(as in "not a breeze") project in the world, but I got through it in about a week, including getting all the parts.
The LEDs I got were these. They are 1.7VDC, 5000 mcd orange LEDs. They are more red than orange (620nm), but they look really cool. I bought them from Jameco.
Step 7: LEDs 2
Take your perforated board and cut out 2 identical pieces out of it to fit the inside dimentions of the deck rectangular tube. To do this, take the plastic front insert out of the tube using a flat-head screwdriver. Before you cut the perf board, an word of caution: DO NOT try to cut the perf board with wire cutters! It will snap it! Instead use a Dremel or small saw. After you have your perf board pieces, put the LEDs in to the holes. Start with the center LED and then the left and right ones. Space them 3 holes apart. Before you solder them, make sure they are in series formation (see picture). Then follow the pictures and image notes for soldering.
Step 8: LEDs 3
Step 9: LEDs 4
1. Thread the battery leads through their hole and solder the negative lead to the input of the pot and feed the output lead to the back of the scooter.
2. Solder the positive battery lead to the front LED assembly's positive input.
3. Solder a wire equal in length to the pot output to the negative lead of the front LED and feed it through to the back.
4. Remove the rear wheel and brake with the Alan wrench(es).
5. Solder the pot's output lead to the negative lead of the rear LED assembly.
6. Solder the lead from the front LED assembly to the positive lead on the rear LED assembly.
Now you should have a complete circuit. Before we hot glue the perf board to the inside of the deck and screw the pot into its place, we will test the LEDs and the pot. First, turn the resistance of the pot all the way up and plug the 9 volt batteries in to their clips. For maximum LED visibility, go into a dark room and slowly turn the resistance down. With my pot, nothing happened until I was a few notches away from minimum resistance. If your pot works with everything properly, go on to the last step!