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These are general instructions for rewiring an old fencing foil.
If you wish to wire a new, bare blade, please start with step 2, as the step before that is just for stripping/preparing a used blade.
I do assume you have basic knowledge of terms and names of items here. If you don't know what I'm talking about at all, you shouldn't be (re)wring a blade in the first place.
But there are variations in fencing weapons, so if you come across a hitch, do feel free to ask.
If you have an electric epee you wish to (re)wire, the steps for that will be very similar to the ones presented here. It is almost impossible for me to create a second instructable for rewiring an epee, but once I have the time, I may add some epee pointers into this instructable.
If you have an electric saber/sabre: Take your blade, stick your bell-guard, socket, bell-pad, grip and pommel on (in that order). Remove any insulation from the socket. You're done.
Please read through all the steps before you start rewiring! Some of these steps are highly time sensitive (i.e. the gluing), so make sure there aren't any surprises once you start.
Disclaimer: if you muck up your weapon, it's not my fault. The directions I present here are reasonably safe/not likely to damage anything if followed correctly.
Items needed:
Foil blade
Point assembly: Barrel, tip, spring, 2 screws, wire+cap
Spaghetti/wire cover tubing
Tension-provider rig (See step 4)
Bell-guard
Socket
Bell-pad
Grip
Pommel (nut)
Tip tape
Tools needed:
Glue (Emblem adhesive is the most accessible, but superglue, Zap-a-Gap, and others may work too)
Point setter (or anything suitably blunt that will fit all the way to the bottom of the point barrel)
Small screw driver
Screw driver/Hex wrench/wrench/narrow tool shaft (for tightening pommel/pommel nut)
Solvent pipe (Optional, but is really helpful. See step 1)
Various chisel-like items (I used a fine point awl, dentist's pick and small screwdrivers)
Hammer (if your chiseling needs a bit of brute force)
Solvent (I usually use acetone, but kerosene-like stuff works too)
Rags (To aid clean up)
Yes, I am pretty verbose, but that also means I probably address most questions that may arise within the text. Read carefully before you ask questions that I've already answered--I might not call you an idiot, but I'll be thinking it.
Addendum: I realize my photo-documentation is not as complete as I would like it to be. I am, however, no longer on the same continent as my weapons/wiring equipment and cannot take additional photos. I am sorry. I can try to supplement with more detailed description, but please do not make photo requests.
If you wish to wire a new, bare blade, please start with step 2, as the step before that is just for stripping/preparing a used blade.
I do assume you have basic knowledge of terms and names of items here. If you don't know what I'm talking about at all, you shouldn't be (re)wring a blade in the first place.
But there are variations in fencing weapons, so if you come across a hitch, do feel free to ask.
If you have an electric epee you wish to (re)wire, the steps for that will be very similar to the ones presented here. It is almost impossible for me to create a second instructable for rewiring an epee, but once I have the time, I may add some epee pointers into this instructable.
If you have an electric saber/sabre: Take your blade, stick your bell-guard, socket, bell-pad, grip and pommel on (in that order). Remove any insulation from the socket. You're done.
Please read through all the steps before you start rewiring! Some of these steps are highly time sensitive (i.e. the gluing), so make sure there aren't any surprises once you start.
Disclaimer: if you muck up your weapon, it's not my fault. The directions I present here are reasonably safe/not likely to damage anything if followed correctly.
Items needed:
Foil blade
Point assembly: Barrel, tip, spring, 2 screws, wire+cap
Spaghetti/wire cover tubing
Tension-provider rig (See step 4)
Bell-guard
Socket
Bell-pad
Grip
Pommel (nut)
Tip tape
Tools needed:
Glue (Emblem adhesive is the most accessible, but superglue, Zap-a-Gap, and others may work too)
Point setter (or anything suitably blunt that will fit all the way to the bottom of the point barrel)
Small screw driver
Screw driver/Hex wrench/wrench/narrow tool shaft (for tightening pommel/pommel nut)
Solvent pipe (Optional, but is really helpful. See step 1)
Various chisel-like items (I used a fine point awl, dentist's pick and small screwdrivers)
Hammer (if your chiseling needs a bit of brute force)
Solvent (I usually use acetone, but kerosene-like stuff works too)
Rags (To aid clean up)
Yes, I am pretty verbose, but that also means I probably address most questions that may arise within the text. Read carefully before you ask questions that I've already answered--I might not call you an idiot, but I'll be thinking it.
Addendum: I realize my photo-documentation is not as complete as I would like it to be. I am, however, no longer on the same continent as my weapons/wiring equipment and cannot take additional photos. I am sorry. I can try to supplement with more detailed description, but please do not make photo requests.
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Signing UpStep 1Strip the blade bare!
Remove the point, pommel, grip, pad, socket, and guard.
Remove the wire from the groove down the length of the blade:
- If you do not have a solvent pipe*:
Wear eye protection. Find one end of the wire (I advise starting with the tang-end), drip some solvent on the area and along the groove in the immediate vicinity. Wedge a pointy-ish object and start chiseling. Work on sections of 1-3 inches at a time--most solvents will evaporate too fast for you to tackle larger sections. Drip, chisel, pry, curse, yank. Repeat. A hammer may come in handy.
-If you have a solvent pipe*:
Fill your pipe to the height of your blade's groove, insert blade and let soak for ~10 minutes. Remove blade, pick one end of the wire from the groove, grab with pliers or wedge a pointy object under the wire and gently pull strip wire away from blade.
I have managed to remove every wire in a single piece when using my acetone pipe--it is exceedingly effective.
Scrape the blade to remove excess glue residue. Wipe with a rag. Etc.
*Make a solvent pipe!
Purchase a ~3 foot section of 1" (or so) copper pipe, and a matching end cap (preferably with solder pre-applied) Cap pipe, solder. (I just went over the end with a little blowtorch for a minute or so.) Cool, and then check for leaks by filling with water. If there are no leaks, then you've got yourself a solvent pipe!
If you're desperate, you can use PVC piping as a temporary, disposable solvent pipe. A matching end cap will fit tightly enough without any glue, but most solvents will dissolve the PVC pretty quickly. Do not use for more than 30 minutes!
Remove the wire from the groove down the length of the blade:
- If you do not have a solvent pipe*:
Wear eye protection. Find one end of the wire (I advise starting with the tang-end), drip some solvent on the area and along the groove in the immediate vicinity. Wedge a pointy-ish object and start chiseling. Work on sections of 1-3 inches at a time--most solvents will evaporate too fast for you to tackle larger sections. Drip, chisel, pry, curse, yank. Repeat. A hammer may come in handy.
-If you have a solvent pipe*:
Fill your pipe to the height of your blade's groove, insert blade and let soak for ~10 minutes. Remove blade, pick one end of the wire from the groove, grab with pliers or wedge a pointy object under the wire and gently pull strip wire away from blade.
I have managed to remove every wire in a single piece when using my acetone pipe--it is exceedingly effective.
Scrape the blade to remove excess glue residue. Wipe with a rag. Etc.
*Make a solvent pipe!
Purchase a ~3 foot section of 1" (or so) copper pipe, and a matching end cap (preferably with solder pre-applied) Cap pipe, solder. (I just went over the end with a little blowtorch for a minute or so.) Cool, and then check for leaks by filling with water. If there are no leaks, then you've got yourself a solvent pipe!
If you're desperate, you can use PVC piping as a temporary, disposable solvent pipe. A matching end cap will fit tightly enough without any glue, but most solvents will dissolve the PVC pretty quickly. Do not use for more than 30 minutes!
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I've fenced for a couple of years. Best of luck on your next match .