Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 4Glue!
No real photos of the gluing. I was using Zap-a-Gap and had absolutely no time to photograph what I was doing. The idea is simple enough that I hope text alone is sufficient to convey the directions. I can't imagine what a photograph might tell you that text cannot...
Anyhow.
Start from the point-end of the blade and glue your wire down. Work quickly--you need to get to the other end of the blade before the glue has set at the beginning!
With emblem adhesive, you can try dripping some glue on to your fingers and quickly coating the length of the wire and then popping it into the groove and then applying a bit more. You may also just apply as you go, holding the wire into the groove and applying the glue over it. In either case, you may wish to drag a pointy-ish item over the wire to press it down (without damaging the insulation on the wire). Once you have the wire glued down (and before the glue has dried), slide your tension-rig thing* on to the tang, and flex the blade (with the wire/groove on the outside), clipping the rig into the barrel to hold the flex. Allow to dry the recommended time (see the glue for drying times).
With Zap-a-Gap (and other superglue-like adhesives), you just have to work very quickly! Unless you have ultra-slow drying superglue, you may wish to reverse the steps a bit, and start with flexing the blade with your rig* and then gluing the wire down.
What's with the flexing and bending? If you simply glued the wire down and let it dry without any flex in the blade, even moderate bending of the blade during use will snap the wire. By giving it the flex before it dries, that provides some elasticity/give/tolerance to the wire.
*Build yourself a tension-rig, blade-flex-holding-doohickey, thingamabob:
Get a lanyard clip, large crab-claw clip, or some other key-chain related clip that will fit into the barrel of your point, and a split-ring, clip, lock, etc that will slide on the tang of your blade, but will stop at the forte. Now attach the two with a length of lanyard, chain, rope, etc such that the blade is flexed to approx. 45 degrees.
Anyhow.
Start from the point-end of the blade and glue your wire down. Work quickly--you need to get to the other end of the blade before the glue has set at the beginning!
With emblem adhesive, you can try dripping some glue on to your fingers and quickly coating the length of the wire and then popping it into the groove and then applying a bit more. You may also just apply as you go, holding the wire into the groove and applying the glue over it. In either case, you may wish to drag a pointy-ish item over the wire to press it down (without damaging the insulation on the wire). Once you have the wire glued down (and before the glue has dried), slide your tension-rig thing* on to the tang, and flex the blade (with the wire/groove on the outside), clipping the rig into the barrel to hold the flex. Allow to dry the recommended time (see the glue for drying times).
With Zap-a-Gap (and other superglue-like adhesives), you just have to work very quickly! Unless you have ultra-slow drying superglue, you may wish to reverse the steps a bit, and start with flexing the blade with your rig* and then gluing the wire down.
What's with the flexing and bending? If you simply glued the wire down and let it dry without any flex in the blade, even moderate bending of the blade during use will snap the wire. By giving it the flex before it dries, that provides some elasticity/give/tolerance to the wire.
*Build yourself a tension-rig, blade-flex-holding-doohickey, thingamabob:
Get a lanyard clip, large crab-claw clip, or some other key-chain related clip that will fit into the barrel of your point, and a split-ring, clip, lock, etc that will slide on the tang of your blade, but will stop at the forte. Now attach the two with a length of lanyard, chain, rope, etc such that the blade is flexed to approx. 45 degrees.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
 |
Add Comment
|
