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Step 5Final assembly
You can start with the point-end or grip-end. I am usually confident that my assembly isn't broken anywhere, so I start with the grip end, so that when I do my final testing, I have the socket already secured. If you want to make sure you didn't mess anything up, you may start with the point assembly.
Grip assembly:
Slide your bell-guard over both wire and tang, aligning any notch in the slot to the wire.
Slide your socket over wire and tang, once again paying attention to any notches.
Put the bell-pad on just the tang, leaving the wire trapped under the pad.
Slide grip on the tang, align any notch with where the wire is under the pad, and secure with pommel.
On your socket is one insulated pin-hole, and one uninsulated one. Your wire will be attached to the insulated one. Strip away some insulation on the wire (it's probably cloth insulation, so just unwrap an inch or two of the wire, and trim away the extra threads.) Figure out what you wish to do with the excess wire. I frequently wedge some under the bell-pad, and then wrap it around the socket arm once or twice. Now loosen the pin-hole, wrap the wire around the exposed shank, and tighten again, making sure it is fully insulated from the rest of the socket.
Point assembly:
Insert spring into barrel.
Align the screw holes on the tip to the screw holes on the barrel, and insert tip, pressing until the holes align from barrel to tip.
Screw in screws.
(Hints: use a magnetic screw driver, and don't worry if the screw holes aren't 100.000% lined up--if there's a tiny (but I do mean tiny) bit of misalignment, it'll fix itself when you insert the screw. And once you get one in, you don't need to be holding the tip down to get the other in. Also! Don't let go of the tip--the spring will probably shoot it out and you'll have a difficult time finding it again!)
Now plug in your body cord and buzz-box and see how you did!
You may wish to do some preliminary weight testing, too. If you don't have a weight on hand, know that the full weight of a foil is pretty equal to the weight you'd be testing with, so flip the foil so that it's point down on the floor, press it down and see if the spring will push the weight of the foil back up.
Final flourish: Tip tape!
Tear off 6" of tip tape, stick it on the blade, lengthwise, starting just below the barrel-screw holes. Wrap the width of the tape around the blade firmly. Tear off another 1.5" or so of tape, and tape widthwise around the barrel, lining up the edge as close to the edge of the barrel as possible, without sticking over. Make sure no bare metal is exposed from the tip down for the length of the tip tape. This taping method allows you to detach the tip while removing only the small bit of tape, rather than trying to strip down part of the 6" tape as well.
Grip assembly:
Slide your bell-guard over both wire and tang, aligning any notch in the slot to the wire.
Slide your socket over wire and tang, once again paying attention to any notches.
Put the bell-pad on just the tang, leaving the wire trapped under the pad.
Slide grip on the tang, align any notch with where the wire is under the pad, and secure with pommel.
On your socket is one insulated pin-hole, and one uninsulated one. Your wire will be attached to the insulated one. Strip away some insulation on the wire (it's probably cloth insulation, so just unwrap an inch or two of the wire, and trim away the extra threads.) Figure out what you wish to do with the excess wire. I frequently wedge some under the bell-pad, and then wrap it around the socket arm once or twice. Now loosen the pin-hole, wrap the wire around the exposed shank, and tighten again, making sure it is fully insulated from the rest of the socket.
Point assembly:
Insert spring into barrel.
Align the screw holes on the tip to the screw holes on the barrel, and insert tip, pressing until the holes align from barrel to tip.
Screw in screws.
(Hints: use a magnetic screw driver, and don't worry if the screw holes aren't 100.000% lined up--if there's a tiny (but I do mean tiny) bit of misalignment, it'll fix itself when you insert the screw. And once you get one in, you don't need to be holding the tip down to get the other in. Also! Don't let go of the tip--the spring will probably shoot it out and you'll have a difficult time finding it again!)
Now plug in your body cord and buzz-box and see how you did!
You may wish to do some preliminary weight testing, too. If you don't have a weight on hand, know that the full weight of a foil is pretty equal to the weight you'd be testing with, so flip the foil so that it's point down on the floor, press it down and see if the spring will push the weight of the foil back up.
Final flourish: Tip tape!
Tear off 6" of tip tape, stick it on the blade, lengthwise, starting just below the barrel-screw holes. Wrap the width of the tape around the blade firmly. Tear off another 1.5" or so of tape, and tape widthwise around the barrel, lining up the edge as close to the edge of the barrel as possible, without sticking over. Make sure no bare metal is exposed from the tip down for the length of the tip tape. This taping method allows you to detach the tip while removing only the small bit of tape, rather than trying to strip down part of the 6" tape as well.
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Oct 27, 2009. 10:27 AMheheheq
says:
Nice. Where di you get the spaghetti wire?
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Apr 29, 2009. 9:08 AMmt90123
says:
Thanks for the instructions.
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