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Ready, Set, Go! Light

Ready, Set, Go! Light
This is a project I'm currently working on for my local combat robotics club. It is an LED light system that will signal the drivers when the match will start. Here are the goals I was aiming for:

- Physically appear similar to an older style traffic light that suspends in the middle of the intersection.
- Be controlled without a microprocessor (i.e. no Arduino)
- Internal power supply that can run the system for several days.
- Be protected from shrapnel and flying robots.
- Incorporate sounds as well as lights.
- Be very bright and look cool!

Testing at home:



A video of it in action (with brightness toned down):



 
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Step 1Circuit Design

Circuit Design
Like I said earlier I wanted to accomplish the timing control without the use of a microprocessor. I'm using the 555 timer IC as it is simple to use and also very inexpensive as well.

The circuit is designed to have a momentary switch trigger the first light, and the next light is triggered when the first light shuts off. Repeat as necessary.

The schematic I've hacked together here (props to kpsec.freeuk.com) shows how I've wired the red and yellow portions of the circuit. You have to add an additional 555 timer 'section' for each light.

I used 100k resistors to get an approximate time of 1.1 seconds for each cycle. If you replace R1/R2 with a 1 megaohm pot you can easily vary the timing of your circuit.

A typical 555 timer can sink up to 200mA of current which is more than enough for a handful of LEDs. In my case I am using 36 LEDs per 555 timer which draw approximately 120mA.
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35 comments
Aug 17, 2011. 9:08 AMRobot Lover says:
You could probably make a smaller circuit board if you use a 556 dual timer. :)
Jul 7, 2011. 9:56 PMlilgispimpin123 says:
how much does this all come out to?
Feb 5, 2010. 3:54 AMlks0912 says:
VERY NICE STUFF...I AM WILLING TO TRY IT OUT..
Dec 21, 2009. 8:14 AMtudgeanator says:
 What actually happened to the one robot in the video? It just span around and then died, but why!?
Oct 19, 2009. 9:33 AMcoolprashant says:
 
Sep 6, 2009. 5:09 PMhemmikarl says:
you could also use a the 4017 IC (decade counter) and a NOT logic gate to supply the power to the 555
(4017 pins
light1 = output0
light2 = output1
reset on 4017 = output2
not gate(in) = output2)
(NOT gate chip
the output of the not gate is to the power of the 555 and the input is connected to output2 on 4017(if using 2 lights))
to output up to 8 lights then you only need 3 IC's
Sep 3, 2009. 7:00 AMRevZ says:
I'm going to build a sprint starter light tree based on this idea. Any ideas how I can get it to work with four lights; 3 amber lights and a green "go" light? I need them to go on in 0.5 second intervals sequentially like this: 1 1+2 1+2+3 then stay on the green light #4 (or 1+2+3+4, doesn't matter) for at least a second or more. Any way how this can be accomplished? Thanks in advance for your help! Kevin.
Sep 4, 2009. 9:10 AMfrollard says:
a 555 with a decade counter (each pulse from the 555 increments the light on the decade counter)

Have output 1 light up 1 led through a diode
have 2 output 1 and 2 led through another diode
/..etc
have output 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 output to the 'green' led only, through a diode each.

http://bowdenshobbycircuits.info/page10.htm#traffic.gif
That follows the same idea, but uses a few transistors and runs a standard setup.
Sep 3, 2009. 4:18 PMTheOneTrueStickman says:
Sure, add some basic logic to a four-timer cascade. I've attached a simple block diagram, however Instructables handles images. (Never done this before - adventure!) Anyway, T1-T4 are travis7s' timer circuits, the diodes provide the logic for T1 to turn on only light 1, T2 lights 1 & 2, etc. T4 only turns on the GO light. (I left out power & ground connections.) Keep in mind you may want to add a driver stage for the LEDs - you'll lose about .8V in each logic diode (using basic signal diodes like 1n914 or even 1n4001s), so your LED's won't be as bright. It may work fine as-is, but keep that in mind if you have trouble. You should also be able to find info to calculate resistor/capacitor values for your .5 & 1 second delays without too much trouble, I think it's on the 555 data sheet, which you can find online fairly easily.
Sep 3, 2009. 6:36 PMTheOneTrueStickman says:
Ha, so busy with great ideas I didn't see the formula! And yes, the voltage drop could be helped by adjusting the LED resistor in this application. Hadn't thought that through completely. Other scenarios may present difficulties/oddities, though - Case 1: You end up with enough diodes to drop you below the forward voltage of the LED modules. Not likely with a 12V circuit, but could very well happen at 5V. Case 2: even with R adjustments, the way my logic is set up there could be either one or two diodes in there, which could make different lights run at slightly higher/lesser intensity. In this application I think that would look cool, but it might not be desirable. Also need to make sure the 555 has the power to drive all the LEDs/modules that need to be on at once. That's probably the bigger problem/reason to use a driver transistor, actually. Depends on the LED current draw.
Sep 3, 2009. 4:18 PMTheOneTrueStickman says:
Sorry the image is a pain to read, I wasn't sure how it would show up. Click for a bigger version.
Sep 4, 2009. 4:30 AMfrikkie says:
I like your idea.I know there is a circuit also doing the traffic light effect but which uses three transistors.
Sep 3, 2009. 7:16 PMmaestro8 says:
The 555 is not a perfect source. Check out Thevenin's theorem for details; the actual source has a non-zero output impedance. In the simplest case, it acts as if it has a built-in resistance. Your selected current limiting resistor allows for plenty of source fluctuation. Good design there. In this case you don't have to worry about the output stage, but keep it in mind for future projects. If you really want to crank up the flash, consider adding an overdrive circuit (another 555 and transistor). Check out the data sheet for your LEDs, but you can pump a lot of juice into an LED for a very short amount of time without doing any damage...
Sep 3, 2009. 3:45 PMmaestro8 says:
Just because the 555 can source 200 mA doesn't mean you should draw that much. The 555 wasn't designed as a stable current source, and LEDs need a stable source if you want to drive them safely and efficiently. How are you to choose a current-limiting resistor if you don't know the source voltage? Consider the case when one of the LEDs in your array dies. As the current put out by the 555 decreases, the output voltage will increase, sending more current to the other LEDs. This may lead to a cascade failure if you're driving the array near its limit. You don't need much more than a transistor and a couple resistors to make a suitable current source... why not put it in your design?
Sep 3, 2009. 12:54 PMGonazar says:
Why is the second row of LEDs offset? Is there some sort of benefit to doing that?
Sep 3, 2009. 1:00 PMwatermelonhead says:
Yeah, i noticed that too...?
Sep 1, 2009. 8:50 PMAccountZ says:
Definitely very bright, and very cool. I think it looks great.
Aug 31, 2009. 1:05 PMlemonie says:
It's good - what sort of match is this for starting? L
Aug 31, 2009. 2:43 PMlemonie says:
Yes I used to watch Robot Wars, there were some truly great machines, amongst the cac that got mashed... L
Aug 31, 2009. 1:21 PMKiteman says:
Something messy, I'm guessing, since it need protection from shrapnel and flying robots.
Aug 31, 2009. 1:32 PMlemonie says:
I would hope so. I've thought that blowing graphite-flake at your opponents might be a great weapon: dry-lubricant & electrical conductor? L
Aug 31, 2009. 1:50 PMKiteman says:
In most combat robot contests, it is against the rules to use projectiles that detach from the robot. Unfortunately.
Aug 31, 2009. 1:53 PMlemonie says:
Fire was used, that's borderline? (or was that just Sgt Bash?, long time ago...) L
Aug 31, 2009. 2:24 PMKiteman says:
The BBC version allowed the house robots to break the rules, including flammables.
Aug 31, 2009. 2:16 PMZilduli says:
Is fire really a projectile? And if so, it doesn't really "detach" from the robot. It seems to me that the proper term would be "released".
Aug 31, 2009. 2:36 PMlemonie says:
If the flame is not connected to the machine the burning fuel is detached. Projecting butane isn't much different to blowing graphite in terms of "spray". I wouldn't consider either to be projectiles. L
Aug 31, 2009. 11:14 PMlemonie says:
Ah, thanks for that information. L

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Author:travis7s
I like to build things... except for wiring.. wiring sucks.