Introduction: 85 Inch Rear Projection Wiimote IWB (Interactive White Board)
This Instructable show how to set up a Wiimote Interactive Whiteboard using Johnny Lee's technique. There are other Instructables dedicated to setting up and utilizing the Wiimoteboard, so I am not going to cover the basic set up steps.
I originally set up a front projection system in my classroom with only one Wiimote and I found I had major tracking issues and it was difficult for my students to understand they couldn't block the camera in the wiimote. So I decided that I wanted to make a large rear-projection screen set up in my class.
At first I had trouble finding information about this set up. It is more time consuming to make so I assumed that is why it not commonly used. Originally I tried what some others had done, trying to use frosted glass or plexiglass but I got really poor diffusion. I also tried the Frosted shower curtain approach which also gave poor results (hot spotting).
I finally decided to spend the $37 dollars on actual rear projection material. And the results blew my mind. I then built a frame and support legs with wheels for my screen, all in all it cost me about $75 - $100 including the screen material. This is by far the easiest to use and explain wiimote set up and my students love it.
Step 1: Building Your Screen
I purchased my screen material from Rose Brand Grey Rear Projection Screen material I purchased two yards @ $16.95 a yard. This works very well with my projector, 2200 lumens, with no real hot-spotting. You can find it here - http://www.rosebrand.com/product703/Projection-Screen-and-Rear-Projection-Screen.aspx?cid=218&idx=1695&tid=1&info=Screen%2bby%2bthe%2bYard
I built my frame out of 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" by 6' boards. ( a 2x4 ripped in half long ways). My dimensions were chosen by setting up my projector and seeing what size was comfortable for me. It ended up being 44 1/2" by 71" (just shy of the two yards of screen material length). So the screen diagonal came out to be roughly 86" which looks beautiful.
I used L-brackets I bought from Home Depot, so that I did not have to cut 45 degree angles and worry about matching them up. After building I found that the joints were a little week so I also attached a metal strap at each corner to give it more stability.
After the frame was build I used a regular stable gun to attach the screen material. I wrapped the material all the way around and stapled it on the back. I folded the material a few times in order to give it some strength where the staples went through.
Step 2: Building My Stand
I decided to make my legs as basic as possible, a simple "T" design. After making the "T" I decided to make a cross beam for each side of the leg in order to give the whole structure more strength.
I used a metal bracket for the main T-Joint, in order to give it more strength and to help make both legs identical.
Step 3: Attaching Screen to Legs
I attached the Screen to the Legs, by drilling wholes through the Projector frame. Then I drilled matching holes into each leg (it is important to remember to drill your holes off centered on the legs so that you do not have any of the leg blocking the picture since it is rear projection)
Once all holes were drilled I ran Carriage bolts through the front of the screen holes and through the Leg holes. I used Wing nuts instead of regular nuts, so that I can take my screen apart and set it up without any tools.
Step 4: Wheels and Crossbar
I added caster wheels to my screen so that it can easily be moved around my classroom.
I also added an extra support crossbar which connects the legs together. This is simply a 1x4 plank attached to each leg with two more carriage bolts and wing nuts.
I also painted my frame so that it had a more complete look.
Step 5: My Set Up and Video
I have my projector set up behind my screen with my wiimote sitting on top of the projector. Once calibrated there are zero problems with tracking through the screen. It works amazing.
Check out my youtube video to see it in Action!!!
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