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Rebuild a bicycle rear hub

Step 5Re-establish order on your workspace

re-establish order on your workspace
Make sure you keep each "set" of bearings to the race that it previously came from. It is ideal not to mix bearings from one side of the wheel to another, as the wear tends to work them into their clearances. Treat each race (outer), cone (inner) and ball-bearing group (middle) as a complete and matched set, for best results, or you may be adjusting preload for many hundreds of miles before ever getting it right.

The same goes for the now-released freehub bearings. The freehub bearings are much smaller, so be sure not to lose ANY of them. Try to avoid using a magnet as magnetized bearings will pull in and hold any ferrous particulate, which does an excellent job of grinding them away. In the case of this hub, preload on the freehub was far too loose for a stringent part-return policy, but I still followed it anyway. The hub bearings are FAR more important when it comes to part-matching....

As a general means of cleaning, roll the entire group of bearings in a rag (like you are trying to rub a glob of grease into it) to remove the excess grease, then add solvent to a new rag and repeat the process....If any ball-bearing looks "galled" (should be outstandingly obvious), or anything less than a mostly polished surface all around, replace it from a part's pile or get a new set from a bike shop or even an industrial source (It pays to keep *every* hub you can get your hands on (as spares or parts), as even the low quality hubs generally use the same bearings, just make sure the gauge matches for what you are replacing......compare to a known-good part before calling it matched.....you should not be able to tell it from the rest of the group)

Assuming all is good for now, you should be at least this organized by now...
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Author:Prometheus
jack-of-all-trades hobbyist/inventor/fabricator Specialties in automotive. cycling, power-transmission (electrical and mechanical), old-school fabrication/tooling.