I want to document the construction of my recumbent bicycle, herein after referred to as the Rec-liner, or more probably just the bike.
The bike has a number of unique features that may be of interest to other bike builders including;
- under-seat, remote steering
- intermediate drive with an elliptical front chain ring
- mostly standard bicycle parts to make replacing and upgrading parts easy
I built this bike around 18 months ago, but as I did not have Instructables in mind at that time so there are no actual build photos. I have however pulled the bike apart a little to take some photos so hopefully this should make the following easy to understand.
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Donor bike 1 - Mountain bike with 26in wheels
Parts required:
- rear end (rear triangle, bottom bracket, cranks, derailers etc.)
- handlebars, handlebar stem, head tube, fork tube
- an indexed gear system is recommended
Donor bike 2 - Mountain bike with 20in wheels
Parts required:
- front end (handlebar stem, head tube, forks, wheel)
- bottom bracket, cranks
Both bikes would ideally have triple chain rings that are removable from the cranks.
Additional parts:
2.8m of 50mm x 25mm rectangular section steel tube (1.2mm thickness)
Plywood for seat
Foam rubber for seat
Scrap steel plate (3mm)
1m of 10mm threaded rod
2 x 10mm rod ends (female thread)
Plastic tubing (10mm inside diameter)
Tools:
Welder (I used 130A arc welder with satisfactory results)
Usual tools required for bike maintenance
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You should have won the contest.
One question , all the recumbents I have seen seem to be trikes, is it difficult to balance when you are not moving?
The front forks and rear triangle are standard and therefore have the mounts for (in my case) linear pull brakes. The only issue you might run into is if you have side pull caliper style brakes on the rear triangle and you have to cut off the mount where it joins to the seat stay. In that case you may have to fabricate a new mounting system.
When I built the bike the first thing I welded was the top tube to the rear triangle, all the other dimensions/angles simply flowed from that decision.
Conveniently the head tube angle also just seemed to flow out of this decision and it is welded at a right angle to the top tube. This may not be the case in all builds but I recommend an angle slightly shallower that what you would find on a standard bike (i.e. increased trail)
I popped the bearing races off the head tube and cut/filed a hole big enough to accept it. Once it was welded in place I simply refitted the bearing races.
From tim Malaysia.
You've gone and confused the whole, general bike layout!
Pedal where you're hands were and stear where you're feet were!