Rec-liner long wheel base recumbent

 by Layout
Featured

Step 2: The frame

DSCF3383.JPG
DSCF3384.JPG
DSCF3385.JPG
DSCF3382.JPG
I designed the frame with only one rider in mind, but with some allowance to move the seat to fine tune the length. If you are planning to build a frame you can use the measurements I give as a starting point. To give you some idea I have an inner leg length of just a little over 80cm and there is room on the frame to move the seat back about a further 10cm.

Start by cutting the rear triangle from the larger bike, including the seat tube and bottom bracket, Weld a 1.3m section of 50mm x 25mm rectangular section steel tube at right angles to the seat tube 175mm above the bottom bracket. This is now the new top tube for the recumbent.

Next cut the bottom bracket off the smaller frame, this will become the front bottom bracket on the new frame. Weld the bottom bracket to a 1m section of 50mm x 25mm rectangular section steel tube to create the new down tube.

Cut the head tube off the larger frame and grind back the cut sections to leave just the tube. Remove the bearing races and shorten the tube to about 75mm. Drill and file a hole big enough to fit the head tube into the new down tube. This hole should be about 650mm behind the bottom bracket, Weld the head tube into the down tube and then refit the bearing races.

To join the top tube and the down tube first cut a slot 25mm wide in the centre of the front bottom bracket. The top tube fits into this slot and the down tube is welded to the rest of the frame (hopefully this is clear once you have looked at the images). Now file away the top tube that protrudes inside the bottom bracket to allow clearance for the bottom bracket workings.

Next we make the back stay for the seat. This is a piece of rectangular section that is welded to the top tube just in front of the seat tube and to the seat stays on the rear triangle. Fit the wheel to ensure the new back stay will clear it easily. I was lucky enough to find a frame where the seat stays joined to a single tube before meeting the seat tube which made this problem a lot easier.

Finally the frame is completed by adding the head tube. Cut the head tube off the smaller frame and weld it to the top tube. The angle at which it is welded makes it parallel to the other head tube.

To plug the hole in the seat tube I used a rubber foot off a table leg.
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up
varneyrobert says: Mar 10, 2010. 12:33 PM
I know that you no longer have the bike but do you recall any of the angles in the frame?
Layout (author) in reply to varneyrobertMar 11, 2010. 8:18 AM
I never measured any of the angles, but if you use the dimensions included in the text you should not need to be concerned about angles.

When I built the bike the first thing I welded was the top tube to the rear triangle, all the other dimensions/angles simply flowed from that decision.

Conveniently the head tube angle also just seemed to flow out of this decision and it is welded at a right angle to the top tube. This may not be the case in all builds but I recommend an angle slightly shallower that what you would find on a standard bike (i.e. increased trail)
Layout (author) in reply to LayoutMar 11, 2010. 8:27 AM
Actually looking at the images and rereading the text I realize that part of my last paragraph is incorrect. The head tube is not at right angles to the top tube but instead at right angles to the bottom tube (i.e. parallel to the other head tube). The remainder of the comment is however correct; aim for a head tube angle slightly shallower than on a standard bike.
varneyrobert says: Mar 7, 2010. 3:54 AM
How did you get the handle bars welded into the square tubing?
Layout (author) in reply to varneyrobertMar 9, 2010. 8:45 AM
Have a look at the third picture on the steering page.

I popped the bearing races off the head tube and cut/filed a hole big enough to accept it. Once it was welded in place I simply refitted the bearing races.
varneyrobert in reply to LayoutMar 10, 2010. 12:30 PM
Thank you
varneyrobert says: Feb 25, 2010. 11:43 AM
(removed by author or community request)
Layout (author) in reply to varneyrobertFeb 26, 2010. 8:12 AM
I would recommend mild carbon steel since you can't weld dissimilar metals and the bike frames are likely steel. Also welding aluminium requires specialized equipment.
atnekn says: Jun 13, 2008. 6:02 PM
what amps did you use
Layout (author) in reply to atneknJun 22, 2008. 2:09 PM
The welder I used was a cheap 130A model; I used 2.0mm rods and turned the amperage down to about 55A from memory.
Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!