I will admit, before you read further, that I have only gotten a chance to test this device with a ballistics pendulum so far. It proved itself beautifully though.
However if you go to a gun shop the "extended magazine clamps" (look like an '8' with a screw in the center to tighten the halves together) cost about 11$. You need two to hold the reducer to the bottom of the barrel, one end against the stock, which technically brings the cost to 32 dollars.
Also, before someone says something, I know that generally recoil reducers are in the butt of the weapon and I know why they use mercury although some use springs.
Step 1: Gathering All of the Components.
Okay, the list:
1 roll of 50/50 lead-less solder
1 propane welding torch
1 roll of teflon tape
1 roll of heat duct tape
1 roll of duct tape
1 tube of 5min, chemically resistent epoxy
1 3/4", thin walled copper tube (should be apprx. 1 foot long)
2 3/4" copper caps
1 1/2" copper coupler
1 compression spring* (apprx. 1/2" diameter... it has to fit in the tube)
- Look up the recoil force of your gun and try to find a spring with 50% that force at
Also, enough 40 weight motor oil and anitfreeze in a 90/10 mixture to fill the copper tube apprx. 2/3. full.
Step 2: Making the Damper Weight.
To make the weight place some of the heat tape on the bottom of the coupler and heat it with the propane torch. Slowly push the solder into the coupler so that it melts and eventually fills it completely. After the solder cools pull the heat tape off the bottom and you have a great fitting, wear resistent weight.
I know this isn't the only way to make a weight, but it fits really nicely in the 3/4" tube.
Step 3: Attaching the Spring
Step 4: Finishing the Weight
Step 5: Attach Spring to One Cap
After the spring is secured in the cap you can use some epoxy to fill the bottom to make a really secure hold. *(Remember to sand the surfaces of the copper before you use glue on it)*
After the glue has filled the cap push the copper pipe onto it and hold it until the adhesive begins to set.
Step 6: Sealing One End and Filling
Now that the end is dry and secure, pour the oil to about 2/3 full inside the tube. The oil acts to lubricate the weights motion, resist the motion of the firearm and dampen the oscillation of the spring.
Step 7: Finishing the Tube
*(The cap will try to pop off because you are compressing the air inside. You will need to keep it weighed down and upright so the oil doesn't touch the epoxy while drying.)*
Now that the glue has dried all you have to do is put some more heat tape on the end, polish it up and, if you want, paint it.
Step 8: Final Product and Information
As the gun is forced back from recoil, the spring with expand due to the weight tending to rest. This, in combination with the resting oil being hit by the other end, produces a dampening effect.
To mount it to the bottom of your weapon go to any local gun shop and purchase two "extended magazine clips". The clips are the perfect size to hold 3/4" pipe to a barrel. When mounting it put a piece of felt between the spring end and the stock of the weapon and you have a hybrid, home-built recoil reducer.