I'm writting this tutorial based on the layout of my album cover. You can modifiy these steps to suit your album cover.

Step 1: Supplies

-record album
-101 sheets of beige printer paper
-sharp pencil
-glue i used 2 kinds simply because one takes to long to dry(clear gel tacky glue) the other is called "The Ultimate!"(I love this one)
-end paper/ I used white card stock because printer paper was not strong enough to use and I didnt have anything that wouldnt take away from the illustration
-exacto-knife
-book cutter(I used this one)/ or paper cutter
-heavy wide books(i used coffee table type books you know, the ones that are huge&heavy)
wax paper

Step 2: Croping the Edges

Open the album up carefully. Crop along the edges and made sure each crop was identical on all four sides of the open album. The full length of the album should measure 23 3/4 inches by 11 1/16 inches tall.

When writing down any measurements/drawing lines make sure the use the plain side, any kind of pencil markings can be hidden here.

Step 3: Marking and Scoring the Spine

From the center measure 1/4th inch on each side, mark, score, and bend.
(I made the spine a total of a 1/2 inch wide and due to the crop it is 11 1/16 inches tall. I didn't realize that this would equal 100 pages due to the width of the spine). So if you don't want that much paper on the inside, use a smaller measurement. Make sure what ever you measurement you use, use it on both sides to create the total width of the spine.

Step 4: Marking and Scoring the Inside Pockets

Make sure the plain side is being pencil marked on. Measure 5 7/8th inches from the edge of the spine, not the middle of the spine. Do this on each side of the spine, and mark on the top and bottom so you have a straight line on each side. That line makes it so you can bend it or score it (I recommend using the score method). In the picture the right side of the album was bent and looks bad, while the left was scored, looks better and was easier to fold .

When the flaps(illustrations) are folded inward, the front cover and back cover ,should measure 5 7/8 inches.
Each flap(illustration) should measure 5 1/2 inches.

Step 5: Pocket Slits

Open the album and lay it on a cutting mat or surface. Only cut into the part (in my case the Illustrations) that will make the front and back pockets and make sure to keep cuts away from the edges. Use an Exacto blade and cut somewhere in the center . When folded it should look similar to my photo.

Step 6: Text Block Part 1

*(TIP: Make sure the glue you use isn't runny and mostly stays in place. On my text blocks I usually use clear gel tacky glue because its a little more flexible than The Ultimate!)
-Lay down some wax paper larger than 11 inches you will need 2 sheets. gather the printer paper make sure its in a stack, VERY neatly.
-Here comes the hard part. Keep all the edges lined up with each other. when its laid down on the wax paper, the edges should align and create a 90 degree angle with the surface your working on and the bulk of the paper. I use a triangle with a 90 degree edge to make it as close as you can. When the edges are as perfect as you can get it, add a heavy book on top. Don't cover one of the longest sides(which is ll inches),
-Add glue evenly to the compressed paper edge( I'm showing the text block vertically because its really hard to take a picture while doing the gluing part horizontally). The glue needs to cover all of the edge,otherwise spots wont be bound and the text block will fall apart. Its ok if it gets on the wax paper, its there to keep the glue contained and were you want it which is on the edge of the paper. the point is to compress the pages as tight as you can, and by adding the glue evenly you bind the pages together into a solid block of paper. with small books you probably can use bulldog clips as seen in the picture.
-At this point you can lift (very carefully) the book off and add the wax paper over the top of the stack (were its glued)add the book to hang over the glued area, this will compress the paper further and squeeze the extra glue out. You can use a finger or brush to smooth the extra glue out evenly. now you can add more books for weight and let it dry. I waited 5 hours(at most 24), just to be sure. It all depends on the glue and how thick your layer is.

Step 7: Text Block Part 2

the spine is the side with dry glue. you can peel the wax paper from the text block spine, now that its dry. grab the last beige printer paper(for the sake of this step I'll call it a cover page).

In the center, mark off a half inch, fold, and wrap it around the spine to make sure it will fit, then pull it back off. (I used "The Ultimate!" this time) Like last time run glue along the spine as evenly as possible and wrap the cover paper on the spine of the text block. make sure the paper adheres to the spine of the text block, don't worry about gluing the edges down yet. let the glue dry about an hour or two.

once the glue is dry on the spine, cut the edges of the cover paper leaving 1/4th on each side of the spine then glue down.

Step 8: Trimming Text Block

Measure from the spine(glued part) outward and mark 5 5/8 inches, trim using exacto and ruler or book cutter(I used this one). Make sure the long part of the paper still measures 11 inches.

Step 9: Adding End Paper

Make sure the 2 end papers are 8.5 by 11 inches each. Measure, mark, and fold on 5 1/2 inches. The other side should have 3 inches of space left.

add 1/2 or 1/3rd inch of glue all along the fold of the endpapers

align the fold of the end paper to the edge of the spine

do the same to the other end paper/back of the text block, and weigh down with books. wait until its dry.

Step 10: Finishing Up the Text Block/end Papers

On the back of the text Block, fill in the whole 3 inch flap with a good glue, like UHU glue(stick) or in this instance, I used 'The Ultimate' (Tip* by adding a scrap sheet of paper between your surface and the paper you are adding glue to you avoid the hassle of accidentally getting glue where its not suppose to. Clean up is as easy as throwing that scrap paper away.)

Line up the spine of the text block with the edge of the 1/2 inch spine of the cover, as seen.

Then do the same with the front 3 inch part of the end paper. The spine should look like a triangle. If your spine is slightly bigger than an inch, it is possible to use the space later as a compartment for a pen or pencil.

Add wax paper between the 3 inch flap and the text block on the front and back to avoid the pages getting stuck together. Add books on top and wait until the glue dries.

Step 11: Finishing Up the Front and Back Pockets

As the image says, glue around all four sides about 3/4 to 1/2 inch worth of glue on all four sides.

Fold and glue up the other side the same way.

Add books on top wait to dry and tada done. :)

Hope you enjoyed this tutorial.