This instructables will show you how to recycle, by desoldering, all your old PCB's (Printed Circuit Board) components. You can find PCB in almost every electronic devices (DVD, computer, camera , toys...).All you have to do is to disassemble them, and desolder the components you want. So here is how to do step by step!
*This Instructable has been feature on Hack-a-Day and in The Best of Instructables book !
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Im going to have to try the torch idea, thats pretty awesome. I have done lots of soldering and repair work, and I hate solder wick, and suckers, but thats from a production perspective, from a recycling perspective they are ok.
Ive found that just adding solder, and shaking the component out works best for me. It does add a lot of heat, but its quick, which means lots of thermal shock, but (hopefully), not too much thermal overload. A solder pot is often what I like best, but dont personally own.
2 soldering irons, and a bit of solder will remove most components, throughhole, or SMT.
Sometimes SMT components are epoxied to the backside of boards, and you have to break the epoxy while heating all the leads on the component, I use dental tweezers, lots of solder, and a hot iron.
I've used hot air pretty extensively in repair, and its probably the most dangerous/easiest to mess up badly. When you use it right, hot air can make very nice looking solder, and make very difficult soldering easy.
Why havnt I seen anyone post using a hotplate to desolder?
Here is one example of the tool.
www.mouser.com/Search/include/LargeProductImage.aspx
The only problem I have is I end up with a batch of parts with little 1/4 inch wires.. The next part I need requires a wire long enough to reach across a two or three hole span in a PC Board.
Has anybody found a neat way to extend those leads..
HLM.
I've pulled thousands of components from scrapped electronics. Everyone should keep in mind that components weren't meant to be pulled out of a PC board.
When you heat a lead enough to melt solder, you will likely destroy the part if you are pulling on the part itself and not the lead. If you can't do this because of a short lead, you have to push the lead through the board, but risk damaging the part with heat if you can't apply a heat sink. Electrolytic caps are easily damaged by pulling.
Remember that many components (especially semiconductors) are intended to withstand molten solder for only a second or two. SMD parts should be removed without heat if possible. I chisel them out with a small sharpened screwdriver.
Many parts are very specific to the circuit and others, like toroid cores, are not all alike. Toroids have different ferrite mixes and work over different bandwiths. Some will choke out all RF altogether. Ideally, having the schematic of the circuit explains the component's purpose and value.
Remember to check the pulled part with a tester to ensure it is what you think it is and it's still good. Axial resistors look identical to axial capacitors!
Most of all, wear safety glasses (a tiny blob of flying molten solder can permanently ruin your eye) and don't breathe that smoke!
Now with the recycling program in Greece I visit always my local drug store and always i found amazing stuff in the recycle bins. Recently I found a genuine Japanese KONAMI horse game powered by 4 AAA batteries. And is like new and full operated. I Put it back in my museum stuff and believe i resisted hardly to rip it and take it out all of it's resistors...;)
Thank you !
Also this is a great instructible, Now I dont feel like such a hobo scrapping out everything I find in my apt community.
It's nice to know i'm not alone.