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Recycling Old timbers (reciclando maderas viejas)

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Please, help me correct the English translation

Hace dos años, más o menos, debido a una vieja gotera, me vi obligado a reemplazar el machimbre del techo del garage. Como resultado obtuve algunas decenas de maderas de pino en buen estado, de 1 cm de espesor por 9 de ancho, y de largo variable. En casa no tengo mucho lugar para guardar cosas voluminosas como un montón de maderas, así que las colgué de un alero en el fondo, sobre una especie de cuna hecha con una soga.

Seleccioné las tablas más sanas y les eliminé los bordes, que en su mayor parte estaban astillados o rotos. Esto redujo el ancho a unos 7 cm, y me permitió hacer una segunda selección que arrojó un lote de maderas utilizables para pequeñas estanterías y otros usos. Con las restantes decidí hacer un experimento de torneado que se me ocurrió hace muchos años, y que alguien publicó acá hace un tiempo, pero no pude encontrar el instructable.

Two years ago, more or less, because of an old leak, I had to replace the socket jointed roof of the garage. As a result I got a few dozen of pine woods in good condition, 1 cm thick and 9 wide, and variable length. At home I have not much place to store bulky items like a pile of wood and hung from the eaves at the bottom, on a cradle made of a rope

I selected the healthier tables and eliminated the edges, which mostly were chipped or broken. This reduced the width to about 7 cm, and allowed me to make a second selection showed a lot of wood I used for small shelves and other uses. With the remainder I decided to do an experiment of turning I thinked many years ago, and that someone posted here a while ago, but I could not find the instructable.

 
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Step 1: Cortar por lo sano (clean cut)

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El proceso comienza con la selección de una madera apropiada. Esto implica que no tenga nudos, roturas ni marcas de clavos, y que sea más o menos recta.

Corto las maderas en trozos que tengan una longitud el doble del ancho. En este caso, como el ancho varía entre 7 y 8 cm, corto trozos de 15 cm. Al cortar voy dejando de lado eventuales nudos, manchas de clavos y roturas.

The process begins with the selection of suitable wood. This means it do not have knots, cracks or nail marks, and is more or less straight.

I cut pieces having a length twice the width. In this case, as the width varies between 7 and 8 cm, I cut pieces of 15 cm. When cutting I leave aside any knots, nails stains and broken timbers.

Step 2: Pegarlas por pares (peer join)


Una vez cortadas la maderas en trozos, hago pares y los oriento de manera que la cara oscura de una quede en contacto con la cara clara de la otra.

En esta posición emparejo los bordes inferiores con la lijadora de banda. Esto rectifica posibles irregularidades dejadas por la sierra circular, y crea en el borde un plano que no necesariamente debe ser perpendicular a la superficie, debido a que al abrir como si fuera un libro el par de maderas, se compensa cualquier inclinación y permite que al pegar las maderitas por el borde queden planas.

Para pegarlas uso cualquier cola vinílica que seque transparente, en este caso uso una cola barata porque no será sometida a esfuerzos importantes.

Mantengo las partes unidas usando banditas de goma. Las obtenidas de una vieja cámara de bicicleta resultan particularmente útiles en este caso. Apilo los pares de maderitas tratando de que el aire circule entre ellos, para que sequen durante la noche, y me voy adentro a cenar y webear.


Once the timber cutted in pieces, I paired and oriented them so that the dark side of one stay in contact with the clear face of the other.

Once the timber cutted in pieces, I paired and oriented them so that the dark side of one timber be in contact with the clear face of the other.

In this position I smooth the bottom edges with the belt sander. This corrects any irregularities left by the saw, and creates a flat edge that should not necessarily be perpendicular to the surface, because when you open the pair like a book, any angle is offset and allows that glueing the pieces of wood along the edge, they are flat.

To glue I use any white glue that dries clear, in this case I use a cheap glue because it will not be subjected to considerable strain.

Keep the pieces together using rubber bands. Those taken from an old inner bicycle tube are particularly useful in this case. I stack the timber pairs trying to let air circulate between them to dry overnight, and go in to dinner and websurfing.


Step 3: Lijado (sanding)

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Al día siguiente verifico que las maderas hayan secado bien, y les paso la lijadora de banda para eliminar manchas y emparejar la superficie.

The next day I check that the woods are dry well, and I pass the belt sander to remove blemishes and smooth out the surface.

Step 4: Marcar el centro (mark the center)

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NOTA: Luego de hacer este instructable, este paso ha sido superado: a partir de la próxima partida, las piezas no van a quedar con ese feo agujerito taponado en el fondo.

Marco el centro de cada una. Ahí hago un agujerito de 6 mm. Como el pino tiene marcadas diferencias de densidad, es probable que la mecha se corra de lugar y el agujero termine desplazado unos milímetros de su posición. No es un gran problema, más se perdió en la guerra.


NOTE: After making this instructable, this step has been passed: from the next set, the pieces will not become with that ugly clogged hole in the bottom.

I mark the center of each. Here I make a hole of 6 mm. As the pine has marked differences in density, is likely the drill bit to run, and the hole place finish moved a few millimeters of desired position. Not a big problem, more was lost in the war.

Step 5: Torneando la primera placa (turning the first board)

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Coloco en el torno una de las maderas, y obtengo un disco del mayor tamaño posible. Eso se hace fácilmente, porque al girar la madera es posible ver que la parte descartable se ve semitransparente, pero hay que tener cuidado porque los trozos suelen salir volando.

Corto una corona circular de unos 2 cm de grosor, luego otra y otra. De esa manera obtengo los siguientes diámetros exteriores, por ejemplo: 14, 12, 10, y un disco de 8 cm.


I place on the lathe the first wood board, and I get a disk as large as possible. That is easily done because the rotation of the board allow to see the disposable part, but be careful because the pieces tend to fly off.

I cut an annulus of about 2 cm thick, then another and another. That way I get the following outside diameters, for example: 14, 12, 10, and a disc of 8 cm.

Step 6: Torneando la segunda placa (turning the second board)

Picture of Torneando la segunda placa (turning the second board)
Coloco en el torno otra de las maderas y obtengo los siguientes diámetros exteriores: 13, 11, 9, y un disco de 7 cm que por el momento es descarte.

I place another board on the lathe and I get the following outside diameters: 13, 11, 9, and a disc of 7 cm, that at the moment is discarded.

Step 7: Apilando (stacking)

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Manualmente elimino las pequeñas astillas de madera de los bordas de las partes obtenidas, y apilo estas de mayor a menor: ejm 14, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, y las cubro con el disco de 8 cm. Voy girando la veta de la madera 90º (opcional) cada vez, a efectos de que quede distribuida. Esto mejora el aspecto de la pieza terminada, y además le confiere mayor rigidez y resistencia al alabeo. Una vez que el conjunto está armado, encolo todas las partes y las prenso para que se seque el conjunto.

Manually I remove small wood splinters from the edges of the parts obtained, and stacked these from highest to lowest: ejm 14, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, and cover them with the 8 cm disc. I rotate the wood grain 90 º (optional) every time, for the purpose of it is distributed. This improves the appearance of the finished piece, and also gives greater rigidity and resistance to warping. Once the group is set, glue all the parts and press them to let dry.

Step 8: Torneando y lijando (turning and sanding)

Cuando la cola ha secado, lo cual ocurre en alrededor de una hora si hace calor, ya puedo colocar la pieza en el torno. Cuidadosamente y con la mejor herramienta de corte que tengo, voy emparejando la forma, especialmente en las partes donde los discos están encolados. Por más filosa que esté la herramienta, es probable que aparezcan algunos pequeños poros en las puntas de las fibras de la madera. Esos poros se deben eliminar con lija, mediana al principio y fina al final, sin sacar la pieza del torno. La etapa de lijado dura normalmente más que la de torneado.

Cuando la pieza adquiere una superficie sedosa, y la veta aparece mucho más visible, es el momento de sacarla del torno. Antes de proceder al barnizado hay que poner un tapón de la misma madera al agujerito del centro (¡ver NOTA en paso 4!). Con la lijadora de banda se empareja la base, y el fondo del recipiente se puede emprolijar con un minitorno tipo Dremel.


When the glue has dried, which occurs in about one hour if it is hot, I can put the piece on the lathe. Carefully and with the best cutting tool I have, I give it the shape, especially in the parts where the discs are glued. For sharper than the tool is, it is likely that some small pores appear at the tips of the wood fibers. These pores must be removed with sandpaper, medium at the beginning and thin at end, without removing the part of the lathe. Sanding stage usually lasts more than turning.

When the piece acquires a silky surface, and the grain appears more visible, it is time to remove it from the lathe. Before the painting you need to put a plug of the same wood to the center hole at bottom (see note in step 4!). With the belt sander flatten the base, and the bottom of the container can tidy up with a Dremel type tool.


Step 9: Barnizar (varnish)

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Y ahora, el barnizado. Si se desea oscurecer la veta, simplemente se empapa la pieza con aceite comestible, y se la deja que lo absorba, para que no afecte el secado del barniz.

And now, the gloss. If you want to obscure the grain, simply soak the piece with cooking oil, and allow it to absorb, so it does not affect the drying of the varnish.

Step 10: Futurismo (futurism)

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Estoy preparando maderas de 22 cm de largo, para hacer piezas un 33% más grandes en diámetro. Calculo que las dificultades serán mayores.

09/12/10 Efectivamente, las dificultades fueron MUCHO mayores. Tardé casi 3 días en terminar esos dos bols de 21 cm de diámetro.

I am preparing 22 cm long timbers, to make bowls by 33% larger in diameter. I estimate that the difficulties will be greater.

Dec 12, 2010 Indeed, the difficulties were MUCH greater. It took almost 3 days to finish those two bowls of 21 cm in diameter.
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jlepack11 months ago
I love the bowl. Looks great!
Did you make your lathe yourself?
What size of electric motor did you use?
rimar2000 (author)  jlepack11 months ago

Thanks, jlepack.

I don't know the power of the motor, it is and old one of a disused water pumper. It lacks its label, has 1400 rpm, I think is 3/4 HP. Last year I replaced the double-cone variator drive by a 4 speed pulley set, homemade too.

your wood working is beautiful. Your a very talented wood worker. I wish I had the talent you have.
rimar2000 (author)  mattthomas9920033 years ago
Thanks, Matt. I think that I am persistent, not talented.
a918bmxr3 years ago
absolutely beautiful!
good job!
rimar2000 (author)  a918bmxr3 years ago
Thanks, a918bmxr!
Phil B4 years ago
Osvaldo,

The bowls are beautiful. You can be proud that you cut the pieces of lumber with your home adapted saw and you turned the bowls on your homemade lathe.
rimar2000 (author)  Phil B4 years ago
Thanks, Phil. I still have to discover the mine and produce steel for making tools!

The bowls are beautiful, despite several flaws, I agree. And my wife think the same!!! That is uncommon, I am worried...

BTW, are there any gross errors in English?
No errors are gross. Some are quaint. You communicate well. Thank you for sharing this with us, the bowls are wonderful!
rimar2000 (author)  fireguard4 years ago
Thanks, Google Translator be lauded!

Yes, the bowls are nice, but nobody wants to pay for them the work they cost.
Dr Qui4 years ago
Fantastic job, these look amazing.

I have not yet tried to do a bowl made from layers yet.
rimar2000 (author)  Dr Qui4 years ago
Thanks, Andy. Yes they are nice bowls. I made 7 or 8 to gift the family women.
thepelton4 years ago
Elm is "Ulmus sp."
Paulownia is "Paulownia tomentosa".
rimar2000 (author)  thepelton4 years ago
Thanks, thepelton, but I live in Argentina. Here is not easy to get something wasted, because almost nobody throw a thing if it can be sold out. However, I usually bring home things that I find, cast away and that may be useful, including some old wood. Anyway, thanks for your concern!
thepelton4 years ago
There are a number of sources for free wood. One, if you're not too particular about the thickness and species is to reclaim pallet wood. Shipping pallets can be found outside and behind various stores and businesses. Just be sure and ASK before taking.

Another source is windfall. Some species of tree cure easily, and can be used for woodworking quite well. Two I know of are Chinese Elm and Paulownia. Both are introduced species in parts of North America, and can be cut with impunity.
Excelente amigo de donde eres soy de La Paz, BCS México. Saludos
rimar2000 (author)  pacorros_20004 years ago
Soy argentino, vivo a 42 Km de Buenos Aires en una ciudad bastante plana y tranquila.

Si cliqueas en el nombre del autor del instructable o del comentario, entras a "su" página, donde suelen estar los datos personales.

Gracias por el comentario.
kleinjahr4 years ago
Very nice,muy bueno.
To make it easier, less splinters, to turn the boards round I suggest that you clip the corners off. Make them octagons before putting them on your lathe. Also the central mounting hole could be plugged with a contrasting wood or eliminated entirely by glue mounting to a sacrificial block. It's an old way of mounting but still usable. Checkout these sites for old turning books.
http://www.archive.org/index.php
http://www.gutenberg.org/wiki/Main_Page
http://chestofbooks.com/index.html
rimar2000 (author)  kleinjahr4 years ago
Yes, I agree with both asseverations. I thinked to use the sacrificial block, if fact just I did it, but I don't show it in the instructabe because this was done before.

A corner of a square board broke a glass in my workshop. It is partially the price I must pay to learn.

Thanks for the links, thanks for the comment.
I hesitate to correct your english but i think you are talking about a bicycle tube. The inner tube of a bicycle tire? From what I can see this is called an inner tube.
rimar2000 (author)  hawkeye.tech4 years ago
Yes, it is as you say. I will correct the text, I use Google translator because I speak only spanish. Thanks very much!
Dr. Pepper4 years ago
soooooooooooooooo gorgeous what amazing wood!
rimar2000 (author)  Dr. Pepper4 years ago
Thanks, I'm glad you like them!
laxap4 years ago
Really beautiful! I like them -- one more project on my to-do-list.

Alternating the wood grain direction gives very aesthetic results.

Be proud of yourself and enjoy your work. Thanks for sharing.
rimar2000 (author)  laxap4 years ago
Thanks for your compliment!
ChrysN4 years ago
They look gorgeous!
rimar2000 (author)  ChrysN4 years ago
Thanks, ChrysN.

Marketing Survey: Would you pay $6 for one of them?

I am planning to become "the bowls's tycoon"
.  I think you are under-selling yourself. I have to agree that $125 is more than I would pay for a simple hand-turned bowl, but $6 is too little. IMNSHO, $15-25 would be a better price.
.  Of course, if you charge $125 per bowl, you don't have to sell very many. :)
rimar2000 (author)  NachoMahma4 years ago
Nacho, there in "first world" (USA, Europe, Japan, etc) things costs more than here, as a general rule. It is true that 6 dollars is a price a little low, considering that each piece consuming me almost an hour of work, although the raw material is free. Free but limited: timber that I have probably made me reach a few ten, then I'd have to buy.

Anyway, I will try to auction off a bowl in Mercado Libre (free market, the Sud American eBay), maybe someone decides to pay more I guess.
. If/when you decide to ship to US, please PM me. I would like to have a rimar2000 original on my shelf.
rimar2000 (author)  NachoMahma4 years ago
OK, when the next container be full, I will PM you.
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Yes. I think that is a bargain, if you search the internet for handmade wooden bowls they can cost a lot more, for example http://www.etsy.com/listing/47671071/baltic-birch-bowl?ref=cat2_gallery_15.
rimar2000 (author)  ChrysN4 years ago
EEEEHHHH, that is an abuse!!!!

Who did it? Michelángelo?

Ditto.

It reminds me of some old souvenirs from Croatia sitting on a book shelf at our house. Just beautiful.
rimar2000 (author)  Treasure Tabby4 years ago
Yes, they the Croats were copied from me ...

Thanks!
CrLz4 years ago
Wonderful!
rimar2000 (author)  CrLz4 years ago
Thanks!
Very nice - I'm tempted to try my hand at this now (we have lots of scrap wood of a perfect size in my basement). I agree with ChrysN - I've seen these types of bowls being sold in galleries for $80 or more, and even in raw wood shops, they usually go for $20 to $30. I'd think you'd have a lot of success with these if you can keep up a good supply of free lumber! Kudos.
rimar2000 (author)  valhallas_end4 years ago
Here is difficult to sell them above 5 or 6 U$S each.
Maybe my future will be to export them. But the problem is the shipping, it should be a significant amount, but I can do, for now, only 6 or 7 per day, at most.

Thanks!
Culturespy4 years ago
Really well done! Great work as always.
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