I'd been involved in archery and bowhunting when I was younger, shot an old PSE wheel bow, chased deer around the woods of New Hampshire. But life intervened and archery took a backseat. Anyways, some how I got a bug in my backside to build a bow over spring break. I did a great deal of reading over at
paleoplanet,
tradgang and
primitive archer, and I'd suggest anyone who chooses to follow this instructable do a fair share of reading over there before proceeding.
So, let's begin, shall we?
This wasn't the first bow. No the first bow was built using these old
Pop Mech plans. However, it was powerful weak, only 20lbs at 28"s. So after further research i found the description of pyramid bows. Not wanting to design another weak bow, I entered the dimensions of the Pop Mech bow into Solidworks and recorded the displacement under a 20 lb load. I then designed the the new bow in Solidworks such that an applied load of 50 Lb resulted in the same displacement as the other bow.
The string is 2 inches shorter than the nock to nock length. Yes you can use twisting to adjust the length.
I just bought a cheap 67" string off the net.
the Goldtip 7595 have a coating that simulate wood grain.
I prefer carbon because they stay straight through their lifetime and are less likely to break.
I brought my hand made bow to the archery shop and these arrows are the ones the owner of the store recommended for my bow.
It costs about $7.50.
http://www.dalehollowoutdoors.com/triple-trophy-dacron-bowstring-16st-67-blck.html
Maple is another beast entirely! it's a very hard wood, used in high-tension and high-pressure applications that need to remain steady [think Guitar necks... they are almost always maple...]. maple just isn't that flexible, but you could try it, i suppose. let me know how it turns out!
Agreed, though. A properly sharpened plane is an absolute joy to use (too much of a joy, I found, when I built my kayak ...).
The grain is beautiful in the pic.
Especially with the wrapping. It's such natural look.
The instructions say to wipe a damp cloth on the wood before applying.
It doesn't take much and the moisture is used up in the chemical reaction.
Poly glue also expands as it cures forcing it's way into the porous wood.
You did clamp it well right?
Regular wood glue contains water so that has to dry out too.
Waterproof properties are a moot point since getting the wood wet will weaken and bend the wood long before the glue fails.
So it's really up to you what to use.