Step 10: Addendum

Many people have commented on "backing the bow', this involves gluing a fabric such as linen, burlap, denim, silk, etc or rawhide or sinew to the back of the bow. With the exception of sinew, these backing do not improve the performance of the bow and are more an insurance policy that if the bow fails it will not result in a catastrophic detonation. So, having said that, if you feel uncomfortable with the risk attendant to an unbacked bow, by all means apply a coating of titebond, lay on a layer of fabric and two more coats of titebond wood glue and then trim when dry.

And now for something completely different, fruit at 8 paces.

My arrows are wobbling in air can you tell me best arrow rest diagram?
<p>So I got to the tillering step. I was wondering how thin the limbs should be at this stage. Currently, my limbs are 31&quot; and .75&quot; thick. The wood does not seem to be cooperating and it is very hard to bend. <br>Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance :) </p>
<p>Built a bow about a year ago out of Red Oak. The step that can help you and the one that was not explained well enough, was the taper. From the handle to the tip of the bow should be a smooth taper. 1/2&quot; to about 5/16&quot;. If it is just one piece of flat wood the bow will be very stiff and not willing to bend where you want. </p>
<p>when you are &quot;Tillering&quot; the bow how and when do you know to stop? do you just guess? please help!</p>
This is very late but I hope it at least helps someone out there. I am also a rookie so pardon the lack of vocabulary and sorry if the information is not accurate:<br><br>When tillering, never pull past the weight limit you intend your draw to be. if your tiller length is not optimal and you've reached your intended draw length, scratch some wood off the belly. <br>
<p>cam somone post all the measurments more specifically</p>
I deviated from the actual design a bit. still cannot affirm if it works, but currently in at the tillering stage: <br>I took a 72&quot; and a 12&quot; piece of .75&quot; x 3.5&quot; of red oak from a local HomeDepot. <br>I used a planer and got each piece to .5&quot; thick<br><br>Limbs: 31&quot;<br>Handle: 5&quot;<br>Habdle Wedges (x2): 2.5&quot;<br><br>I'll try to keep this updated!
<p>That sounds too easy. Don't you heat treat it, while tillering ?</p>
<p>Be prepared for the future --&gt; Download your own collection of woodworking plans for a project.</p><p><a href="http://bit.ly/download-16000-easy-woodworking-plans" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/download-16000-easy-woodworking-plan...</a></p>
<p>is it accurate when you fire?</p>
<p>Thanks for the instructable. I modelled my first version on yours but had a major failure. It broke at 29lbs. I used Tasmanian oak. I am about to start on version 2. Here goes....</p>
Did you have any luck? I also live in tassie and was planning on doing this build but wasn't sure about the availability of the wood or if Tasmanian oak would have the same properties.
<p>It 's great project, I will try to do it</p><p><a href="http://tedswoodworkingprojectplans.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow">http://tedswoodworkingprojectplans.blogspot.com/</a></p>
<p>Great work</p><p>I will try to do it</p><p>My woodworking plan</p><p><a href="http://tedswoodworkingreviewer.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow">http://tedswoodworkingreviewer.blogspot.com/</a></p>
<p>made it and it was awesome thank you</p>
I would love to see photos of the &quot;camo&quot; finish!
I've been looking for red oak and couldn't find any, is there another type of wood I could use?<br>the problem is that I can't find it in my city (Mexicali, Baja California, M&eacute;xico) and I really want to make a bow.
<p>you can use white oak,hickory,(my choice),maple,(native Americans in my area and in your area ) Osage </p>
<p>Look for mexican rose wood/bocote, chechem, cocobolo, purple heart or ziricote. All of those are woods that grow in mexico/central america and would be acceptable/good/exceptional bow woods.</p>
<p>A quick question about Yew. It happens that we have a ton of it growing on the West End here. But it's green naturally. Seasoning? How long?</p>
<p>have a look at this website very good for woodworking http://woodguide.net/</p>
hey, i know this is out of the topic, but is mahogany a good bow wood?
<p>Since mahogany is a hardwood it should have the same effect, however it is a more decorative wood and may cost more.</p>
How do I tiller it? Please help I'm a newbie...
Go to the site poor folks bows. The guy that has the site has a very detailed tutorial on how to tiller a bow. What ever you do DO NOT SOAK THE BOW !!! Building a bow takes time and patience. Short cuts = fire wood
<p>the easiest way i found was to soak it before you try to shape it... although there is a possibility of lifting a splinter as it dries... it makes the process a lot easier</p>
<p>If you want a protective finish that will give the look of your wax/turp/blo mixture, while preventing sweat from raising the grain, I'd recommend getting a bottle of Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil and hand rubbing it into the wood. (make sure you wear nitrile gloves). I usually pour a bit into the cap of a used water bottle and dab a finger in it and get to work rubbing it into the wood (you want to create heat from the rubbing action) till it's absorbed, working in sections to prevent it from building up on the surface of the wood. I recently refinished a friends bow for him and it turned out very nice. </p><p>Oh... and if you want to speed up the process, before each coat of Tru-Oil spray a tiny bit of Armor-All (yes.. the crap i'd never put on my car) on your gloves so they get slippery, and rub the wood down, followed by the above Tru-Oil method. Someone over at RimfileCentral told me about it yet nobody can seem to figure out the original source. My theory is that some guy with a Tru-Oil finish applied Armor-All to a shotgun or rifle prior to going out in bad weather with the intent of protecting the wood. He ended up dinging the finish while out that day and touched it up with some fresh tru-oil only to find it dried in 5 minutes instead of a few hours. And no joke, that's seriously how fast it dries. Armor-All works like a catalyst and some sort of reaction occurs. </p><p>Here's a couple examples of how Tru-Oil looks on Walnut. The first is my Browning Auto-5 16ga (circa 1928) which I refinished and re-checkered after I gouged the crap out of it climbing a fence while running from a bull (long story). The other is a pair of custom grips I made from a block of Pao Ferro (Bolivian Rosewood) and hand checkered. You can build up the finish further but I like the feel of the wood.</p>
<p>You say those grips are custom made, how did you get the S&amp;W logo on there? Those are some beautiful grips I would like to get some like that, where can I find some?</p>
<p>would you do any extra shaving on the limbs to try and adjust the poundage on the bow or do you just leave it as is?????</p>
<p>love it</p>
Great plans! I made this last summer. It was a fun and easy project that took me all of one afternoon. I used a piece of red oak salvaged from a job site. The photos were taken before I stained it. I used a red oak stain and finished with polyurethane. The bow has held up exceptionally well. I use it on average maybe twice a month, just shooting at a small target in my back yard. It is surprisingly powerful. I had to reinforce my homemade target because it kept blowing arrows straight through the back and into my shed.
<p>What kind of bow string do I use and where can I find it?</p>
<p>wouldn't the grain split apart? I'm making a flatbow out of osage and I'm getting the back down to one growth ring. Just wondering.</p>
<p>this is brilliant and i just rang the wood shop up to order a peice of maple how ever i think its going to be 5inch thick can i still run with that or would it be better to buzz it down to 3inch and if it were to stay at 5inchs would that increase the poundage on it ?</p>
<p>It's very interesting the way you've cut the bow.<br><br>Looking at the end grain, where you can see the rings. you've cut across these instead of going with the rings.<br><br>Hey it works, but it definitely a different way to do it.</p>
If you paint this like Katniss' s bow it will look badass!
thinking about making this, anyone know what would be the best wood for this project?
<p>maple or yew</p>
Osage Orange/bodark/bois d'arc, how ever you call it, is some of the best wood for making bows. Hell &quot;bois d'arc&quot; is French for wooden bow. If you can find a knot free length of the stuff, GET IT.
yew.....its expensive and rare so dont bother.......orange osage,lemonwood are easyily available in the USA i believe...........basically any dense hardwoods are capable of making reasonable bows..........ive read oak with a hickory strip glued on the back works well.............
The best wood for making bows is dead wood, Oak is the next best thing. <br>
where might I get deadwood? what is it anyway?
read the comments<br>
<p>Is there any more simpler tools that I can use besides a table saw?</p>
<p>also hickory, ash, elm, and oak.</p>
Nock wedges????? do you get fries and a coke with that?

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