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Step 3: Laying out the bow

Begin by inspecting the wood, check for any splinters, cracks, knots, if you can work around them great, if not, go get another piece. Slice a inch off one end and then cut a 70 inch portion off, that will leave a 25 inch section.
Take the 70 inch portion and locate and mark the center of each end, snap a line, or use a straight edge to make a line down the plank between these points. Now mark the center of the board. Label the center very clearly. The bow is symmetrical so layout is easy.

The handle is 4 inches long, one inch wide and centered.
The "wedges" are 2 inches long and 2.5 inches wide.
The limbs are 30 inches long and go from the wedges to a width of 3/8ths inches.

Got that? Pretty simple.
<p>Excuse me sir,</p><p>Great 'ible, by the way.</p><p>I was wondering if you had any thoughts on how to create a bow made of 4-sheet thick plywood. I have some 5/8&quot; and 15/32&quot; plywood left over from another project I was constructing recently and I was wondering if I would be able to make a bow from that. It's not the best grade plywood, however I thought that some bows are made by laminating pieces of wood together, and I thought maybe I could replicate this by using plywood.</p><p>Here are the product descriptions if you need them:</p><p><em><a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/19-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Rtd-Sheathing-Syp-166081/100004472">http://www.homedepot.com/p/19-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Rtd-Sheathing-Syp-166081/100004472</a></em></p><p><em><a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/BC-Sanded-Plywood-Common-15-32-in-x-4-ft-x-4-ft-Actual-0-451-in-x-47-75-in-x-47-75-in-225486/206120964">http://www.homedepot.com/p/BC-Sanded-Plywood-Common-15-32-in-x-4-ft-x-4-ft-Actual-0-451-in-x-47-75-in-x-47-75-in-225486/206120964</a></em></p><p>Thank you!</p>
<p>What was the length of the bow string?</p>
<p>Primitive archer?</p><p>Because aw yis </p><p>I made It</p>
Do you think oiling the bow or waxing it would prevent it from talking on water and warping?
<p>Yes, I used what's called 1/3 finish. Melt beeswax, mix 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 turpentine and 1/3 melted beeswax. Stir will and keep in a sealed jar. To use, scoop some out, rub it into the wood with your hands, let sit until it gets hazy and wipe off with a rag. Finish most of my rifle stocks the same way.</p>
<p>that's kind of the point of finishes like that..things like shellac and oils like teek and tung oil are water barriers. so yes. it'll help. stop it from being soaked? no. </p>
Has anyone ever used hedge Apple wood
I'm not understanding the handle area is there better pictures or illustrations
<p>Another backing that works well and also looks sort of interesting is fiberglass drywall tape. If you put three layers of that on you should be good to do. It's also quite cheap and easy to work with. (idea credit: poorfolkbows.com)</p>
<p>Looks very nice. I wasn't sure how something like red oak would perform, but obviously it does pretty well.</p><p>I learned my bow making from literally whittling Popular, Willow, Ash, whatever I could find around my home as a child. Most failed, but some were awesome. I've always dreamt of making a proper looking bow. I may just try the red oak.</p>
hm... do you guy prefer aiming without sight? maybe quick addon for attaching sight? is super glue with tight string good enough?
<p>I made a bow too I put it in my hair everyday it looks lovely. I dont know how you could fit that bow in your hair :O </p>
<p>I made this bow, the quiver, and the arrows (5 field point and 1 broadhead). The bow has a draw weight around #40, the grip is a faux leather with felt. This was my first attempt at making a wooden bow.</p>
My arrows are wobbling in air can you tell me best arrow rest diagram?
It's not your rest. If they're wobbling up and down, you need to change where you're nocking then on the string. If they're wobbling left to right, you're arrows are too stiff(left) or two flexible(right) relative to the weight of the bow.
<p>What kind of bowstring did you use. Also what did you do for the arrows?</p>
<p>So I got to the tillering step. I was wondering how thin the limbs should be at this stage. Currently, my limbs are 31&quot; and .75&quot; thick. The wood does not seem to be cooperating and it is very hard to bend. <br>Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance :) </p>
<p>Built a bow about a year ago out of Red Oak. The step that can help you and the one that was not explained well enough, was the taper. From the handle to the tip of the bow should be a smooth taper. 1/2&quot; to about 5/16&quot;. If it is just one piece of flat wood the bow will be very stiff and not willing to bend where you want. </p>
<p>when you are &quot;Tillering&quot; the bow how and when do you know to stop? do you just guess? please help!</p>
This is very late but I hope it at least helps someone out there. I am also a rookie so pardon the lack of vocabulary and sorry if the information is not accurate:<br><br>When tillering, never pull past the weight limit you intend your draw to be. if your tiller length is not optimal and you've reached your intended draw length, scratch some wood off the belly. <br>
<p>cam somone post all the measurments more specifically</p>
I deviated from the actual design a bit. still cannot affirm if it works, but currently in at the tillering stage: <br>I took a 72&quot; and a 12&quot; piece of .75&quot; x 3.5&quot; of red oak from a local HomeDepot. <br>I used a planer and got each piece to .5&quot; thick<br><br>Limbs: 31&quot;<br>Handle: 5&quot;<br>Habdle Wedges (x2): 2.5&quot;<br><br>I'll try to keep this updated!
<p>is it accurate when you fire?</p>
<p>Thanks for the instructable. I modelled my first version on yours but had a major failure. It broke at 29lbs. I used Tasmanian oak. I am about to start on version 2. Here goes....</p>
Did you have any luck? I also live in tassie and was planning on doing this build but wasn't sure about the availability of the wood or if Tasmanian oak would have the same properties.
<p>made it and it was awesome thank you</p>
I would love to see photos of the &quot;camo&quot; finish!
I've been looking for red oak and couldn't find any, is there another type of wood I could use?<br>the problem is that I can't find it in my city (Mexicali, Baja California, M&eacute;xico) and I really want to make a bow.
<p>you can use white oak,hickory,(my choice),maple,(native Americans in my area and in your area ) Osage </p>
<p>Look for mexican rose wood/bocote, chechem, cocobolo, purple heart or ziricote. All of those are woods that grow in mexico/central america and would be acceptable/good/exceptional bow woods.</p>
<p>A quick question about Yew. It happens that we have a ton of it growing on the West End here. But it's green naturally. Seasoning? How long?</p>
<p>have a look at this website very good for woodworking http://woodguide.net/</p>
hey, i know this is out of the topic, but is mahogany a good bow wood?
<p>Since mahogany is a hardwood it should have the same effect, however it is a more decorative wood and may cost more.</p>
How do I tiller it? Please help I'm a newbie...
Go to the site poor folks bows. The guy that has the site has a very detailed tutorial on how to tiller a bow. What ever you do DO NOT SOAK THE BOW !!! Building a bow takes time and patience. Short cuts = fire wood
<p>the easiest way i found was to soak it before you try to shape it... although there is a possibility of lifting a splinter as it dries... it makes the process a lot easier</p>
<p>If you want a protective finish that will give the look of your wax/turp/blo mixture, while preventing sweat from raising the grain, I'd recommend getting a bottle of Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil and hand rubbing it into the wood. (make sure you wear nitrile gloves). I usually pour a bit into the cap of a used water bottle and dab a finger in it and get to work rubbing it into the wood (you want to create heat from the rubbing action) till it's absorbed, working in sections to prevent it from building up on the surface of the wood. I recently refinished a friends bow for him and it turned out very nice. </p><p>Oh... and if you want to speed up the process, before each coat of Tru-Oil spray a tiny bit of Armor-All (yes.. the crap i'd never put on my car) on your gloves so they get slippery, and rub the wood down, followed by the above Tru-Oil method. Someone over at RimfileCentral told me about it yet nobody can seem to figure out the original source. My theory is that some guy with a Tru-Oil finish applied Armor-All to a shotgun or rifle prior to going out in bad weather with the intent of protecting the wood. He ended up dinging the finish while out that day and touched it up with some fresh tru-oil only to find it dried in 5 minutes instead of a few hours. And no joke, that's seriously how fast it dries. Armor-All works like a catalyst and some sort of reaction occurs. </p><p>Here's a couple examples of how Tru-Oil looks on Walnut. The first is my Browning Auto-5 16ga (circa 1928) which I refinished and re-checkered after I gouged the crap out of it climbing a fence while running from a bull (long story). The other is a pair of custom grips I made from a block of Pao Ferro (Bolivian Rosewood) and hand checkered. You can build up the finish further but I like the feel of the wood.</p>
<p>You say those grips are custom made, how did you get the S&amp;W logo on there? Those are some beautiful grips I would like to get some like that, where can I find some?</p>

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