Red Oak Pyramid Bow

Step 5 The handle

as is, is too thin, your bow will break there. So we are going to make it thicker, but we also need a smooth transition to the limbs.
Start by cutting the saved 25 inch piece to 9 inches. Now using your table saw carefully feed the piece back an forth across the blade while raising the blade in small increments. the feather edge should be tangent with the highest point on the blade. you can make a simple sliding jig to ease the process, I didn't, but would recommend it. Also I used a 7 inch blade, a 10 inch would have made nicer fades.

Don't worry about getting a perfect paper thin edge, but get close, now you can glue the handle piece to the bow and let it dry at least 24 hours, and then cut out the handle.

Comments

[OddAmeoba]

 would standard carpenters glue work or is there a better glue to be used here?

[TradBow]

 Having built numerous bows myself, it pays to use a stronger glue. Personally I use 24-hour Araldite epoxy. It's a bit more money and trouble but it's worth it.

[arpruss]

Fine Woodworking magazine tested a bunch of glues.   The results are interesting.  Overall, Titebond III was best, but the exact results depend on the kind of wood and the kind of joint.  I think that for this application, the most relevant results are for loose joints in oak. There, hot hide glue was the best.  Titebond III was 1% behind that.  Slow-set epoxy (pretty much what Araldite is, right?) was 3% behind Titebond III, and ordinary carpenter's glue was 1% behind that.

In my experience, the crucial element to getting a good bond is really good clamping.  Personally, I use Titebond II for most of my woodworking.  I like its yellowish color, ease of cleanup and strength, and it's half the price of Titebond III.  In my experience, it is incredibly strong when you clamp it well for 24 hours.  In my fairly small experience, the glue-line will be stronger than the wood, so if the joint breaks, it won't be through the glue--it'll be the wood near the joint that breaks. 

However, I haven't made a bow, so the flexing of the wood may make a different glue more appropriate.

[sconner1]

On a side note this is probably the reason laminated beams are stronger than regular dimensional lumber.

[sconner1]

From what E've learned and experienced, this is true.
Even with Elmer's white glue clamped properly, the joint should be stronger than the surrounding wood.
Try it. Edge glue some scraps and try to break it. You'll see the wood fails before the joint.

[thirtyfivefox]

I also can't stress the importance with proper clamping when working with wood. It is absolutely crucial but also remember that wood glues are often air drying glues so it will take longer to cure the interior areas of larger glue ups. Wood is considerably porous but I personally would chose an epoxy like TradBow suggested since epoxy cures through chemical processing. However I also have not made a bow.... but this instructable has certainly sparked the idea. Looks pretty comprehensive so far!